Exceeding hitch rating

[Julian]

That's a negative, though close. I'm not sure when Yamaha stopped publishing the 'dry weight on trailer' specifications, but in 2017 the 242 LTD-S had a dry weight on trailer of 5,063lbs, which is no batteries, no fuel, no water, nothing on-board storage wise, etc. Considering the fact that nobody is towing around empty boats, most of us are sitting around 5500lbs even in barebones configuration (batteries, fuel, anchor, some PFDs, six pack of beer).

Yup...you are correct, looked that up too quickly! It is annoying that they aren't consistent with the specs they publish!

 

[Billtex2000]

So both of these are showing Class III can handle up to 8000lbs., Class IV up to 12,000lbs.

How to Choose the Right Trailer Hitch Class | etrailer.com

Trailer Hitch Facts for Towing

U-Haul says 7500lbs and 17,000 for Class IV! Sheesh!

U-Haul: Tips: Select A Hitch Guide

I have a Class III and my Durango is rated for 6200lbs. I'm guessing it's not as cut and dry as what class the hitch is?

 

[Bluewater272]

Depends not only on the class of hitch, but how its being used and on what type of trailer - weight carrying versus weight-distributing. Sorta like how my 13,000 tow capacity F-150 is only rated that way if I was pulling something like a hay wagon.

 

[Billtex2000]

Depends not only on the class of hitch, but how its being used and on what type of trailer - weight carrying versus weight-distributing. Sorta like how my 13,000 tow capacity F-150 is only rated that way if I was pulling something like a hay wagon.

Those appeared to all be for "weight carrying". And BTW, I need to correct myself...I just checked and the hitch on my Durango is listed as a Class IV!!

 

[Matt Phillips]

There's another thread popping about this morning on receivers and weights. As I said in there, also check the weight-rating on your trailer ball. A lot of them are only 5,000lb rated. I got a 7,500lb ball from the local U-Haul Store...for a comparable price as at other locations. Since I had a U-Haul hitch receiver, they even put the ball on and pinned it in place for me.

 

[Billtex2000]

Depends not only on the class of hitch, but how its being used and on what type of trailer - weight carrying versus weight-distributing. Sorta like how my 13,000 tow capacity F-150 is only rated that way if I was pulling something like a hay wagon.

Those appeared to all be for "weight carrying". And BTW, I need to correct myself...I just checked and the hitch on my Durango is listed as a Class IV!!
The same hitch on a Durango with the Hemi is rated at 7400lbs.
If you buy the factory receiver/hitch and install it yourself, it's only rated at 3500/350 (because you wont have the bigger brakes, heavy duty cooling, etc.)
The pre-2014 Durango with the same V6 was only rated at 5000lbs. because it only had the 6-speed transmission...2014+ have the 8-speed.
Lots of things come in to play.
Good point @Matt Phillips, ball mounts are rated too! I got one rated at 7500 for that exact reason!

 

[haknslash]

Yeah, this does raise some interesting questions. How can an SUV rate their towing capacity to be 7800lbs (like my Q7 does) and only have a standard Class 3 hitch? This doesn't add up....

Because Marketing and hype trumps all. All of the truck MFG commercials will say X truck can tow X amount but they don’t tell you that you have to specifically spec out the trucks transmission, gear ratio, engine configuration plus max tow package to achieve those numbers. They basically give you the “ceiling” that vehicle could do, not what they typically come from in the dealer lot.

 

[Stevenpigsooie]

Good info. I checked my 2017 Chevy Silverado hitch, 4x4, 5.3L with towing package, 3.42 gear ratio and it has a class IV 1,200 tongue and 12,000 total. However, the truck is rated for 9,400 max towing capacity.

 

[Dixie Highway]

I can tell you my 2018 F-150 5.0 with the standard tow package has a class IV, and a stated towing capacity of 9,100 lbs in current configuration. Only difference between the regular and max tow packages are the max tow requires the 3.5 EB and comes with some options I paid for separately. My guess is they upped the standard hitch in 2013 when they moved to the SAE J2807 towing standard tests, since I’m pretty sure my 2014 with tow package also had class IV receiver.

 

[Sbrown]

I just checked my 2017 Ram 1500. It came with a class 4 hitch as standard equipment. However, I did notice that printed on top of the bumper is a statement about a 5000/500 limit but that only applies when towing from a ball mounted in the bumper. I think part of the confusion comes from the fact that most trucks and some SUVs have a bumper that can be used to tow, regardless of whether the vehicle has an actual hitch as part of a tow package or not. Most bumper hitches are only rated for 5000/500 and and I believe this is why the owners manual states about the vehicle needing to be "properly equipped" to tow more. I really think they are talking about the vehicle at that point, not necessarily the style of hitch used with a particular trailer. I think maybe just a little too much is being read into all this. Just my humble opinion, ymmv.

 

[haknslash]

I’m not sure when they changed it in the F150. I’ve seen newer ones with tow package come with Class III. Perhaps it’s a 4wd package that triggers the Class IV? Who knows lol.

This is what my 2010 F150 with factory tow says...



Here’s my new Curt Class IV hitch ratings...

 

[swatski]

I’m not sure when they changed it in the F150. I’ve seen newer ones with tow package come with Class III. Perhaps it’s a 4wd package that triggers the Class IV? Who knows lol.

This is what my 2010 F150 with factory tow says...

View attachment 90938

Here’s my new Curt Class IV hitch ratings...

View attachment 90939

Well... is there a way to certify the install, how does that impact the ratings?

Insurance pays claims for things that are insured regardless of who's at fault (short of intentional misuse, like off road or race track). But a liability lawyer will always try to find a weak point.

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[haknslash]

Well... is there a way to certify the install, how does that impact the ratings?

Insurance pays claims for things that are insured regardless of who's at fault (short of intentional misuse, like off road or race track). But a liability lawyer will always try to find a weak point.

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Short of checking for fasteners and torque specs I’m not sure what all there is to verify an install is done correctly or within the hitch MFG’s instructions. I think as long as you don’t cut, weld or modify the hitch or truck frame you should be good. Of course I’m not a lawyer so don’t take my word for it lol. Seriously though I think anyone installing them would be fine in all but negligent users or installers.

 

[the MfM]

It seems a lot of people think the hitch is the limiting factor for weight ratings.


If you have a truck with a class 3 hitch and a 500/5000 lb rating without a WDH upgrading to a class 4 or 5 hitch DOES NOT necessarily mean you don’t need a WDH to tow 500/5000 pounds.

There are other limiting factors that could require a WDH such as the RAWR, tires and wheels. The only way to know for sure is to take your normal load out to a truck scale and get some weights.

Regardless if things will be OK towing near max ratings unless you are towing a 19’ boat with a 3/4 or 1 ton you will likely have a noticeabley better towing experience with a WDH. Steering, braking and sway control will be improved.

 

[haknslash]

Yes no matter what your vehicle specs is what you have to consider and work around if you’re towing really heavy loads.

No doubt a WDH would offer the best and safest ride but I don’t think it’s necessary for these boats. One thing that would concern me with a WDH on a boat trailer that uses a single central beam is the amount of load it would see when those trailers likely aren’t design with WDH in mind. Another thing that would concern me is the folding tongue. Usually there is not a lot of material where the pin is and it’s not longer a box for structural integrity. I don’t know how much loads a folding tongue would see with a WDH but just seems like it’s not something you see used on boats of our size.

I think I’m going to get back in line for the @Betik traveling tongue scale when the new boat arrives and make any adjustments I feel my vehicle may need after a few tows.

 

[swatski]

It seems a lot of people think the hitch is the limiting factor for weight ratings.


If you have a truck with a class 3 hitch and a 500/5000 lb rating without a WDH upgrading to a class 4 or 5 hitch DOES NOT necessarily mean you don’t need a WDH to tow 500/5000 pounds.

There are other limiting factors that could require a WDH such as the RAWR, tires and wheels. The only way to know for sure is to take your normal load out to a truck scale and get some weights.

Regardless if things will be OK towing near max ratings unless you are towing a 19’ boat with a 3/4 or 1 ton you will likely have a noticeabley better towing experience with a WDH. Steering, braking and sway control will be improved.

I agree on the hitch class discussion which I think is somewhat misplaced.
I would say you are correct about WDH except when it comes to boat trailers wherein WDHs do not generally work.
I could be wrong though, could you point out which WDH to use with my tow vehicle and Yamaha/Shoreland'r trailer?

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[2kwik4u]

Yeah, this does raise some interesting questions. How can an SUV rate their towing capacity to be 7800lbs (like my Q7 does) and only have a standard Class 3 hitch? This doesn't add up....

Again, this is where the WDH hitch comes into play. The dead load on the ball is reduced by introducing an opposing moment at that connection. This opposing moment also helps significantly in axle loading (which is why you see it on a lot of the 1500 class trucks). It transfers some of the reaction forces back to the trailer axles, and forward to the front axle, this "distributing" the load.

I would wager that a fair number of guys towing in the 1500 class are well over rated hitch weights, and most likely over axle weight ratings as well. Those WDH hitch requirements are there, not just for the actual load carrying weight of the hitch, but the overall weight distribution of the entire system. If one wants to tow 6k+lbs on just the ball with no additional equipment, you most likely need to step to a 2500 series to be within stated limits on all axles, hitches, and supporting equipment. I haven't done the hard research to prove this currently, but intend to before I upgrade to a larger boat. If you want to tow 7,400 lbs with a unibody SUV, you'll want that WDH hitch setup properly. Not only will it ensure you are within rated limits, but I'm positive it will tow better going down the road.

I'm still completely floored at how much time and money is spent on boats/toys/tow vehicles, and then the relative lack of "give a craps" about proper hitch setup.

 

[Dixie Highway]

For discussion sake here, let’s say you have a 6500# boat setup. If you go by (Shorelander) trailer mfg recommended 5-7% tongue weight, you are at 455# (7%), which is under the 500# tongue weight recommended for the hitch and vehicle, and likely well under rear axle weight. Most modern 1/2 ton trucks are rated for closer to 1 ton payloads in the bed. So being over the 5000# trailer weight but under the 500# tongue weight somewhat negates the usefulness of a WDH, because the axle load on the vehicle is under. The hitch to vehicle mounting does not change with or without a WDH, and I would argue a WDH setup puts more torsional force on hitch mounting points in that the load is not only pulling down, but “rotating forward” as it transfers weight to the front axle of the vehicle. Make sense?

 

[2kwik4u]

For discussion sake here, let’s say you have a 6500# boat setup. If you go by (Shorelander) trailer mfg recommended 5-7% tongue weight, you are at 455# (7%), which is under the 500# tongue weight recommended for the hitch and vehicle, and likely well under rear axle weight. Most modern 1/2 ton trucks are rated for closer to 1 ton payloads in the bed. So being over the 5000# trailer weight but under the 500# tongue weight somewhat negates the usefulness of a WDH, because the axle load on the vehicle is under. The hitch to vehicle mounting does not change with or without a WDH, and I would argue a WDH setup puts more torsional force on hitch mounting points in that the load is not only pulling down, but “rotating forward” as it transfers weight to the front axle of the vehicle. Make sense?

This is pretty close. The loading on the hitch to vehicle attachment gets better, not worse with a WDH. The applied moment (rotational force) of the WDH is in the opposite direction as gravity on the ball. So the total applied moment at the hitch/vehicle interface is less overall.

Also, you should note that bed capacity is a singular vertical force. The ball being mounted behind the axle creates a larger moment to be accounted for on the rear axle. Essentially making the axle a fulcrum against the CG of the truck and the ball weight.

I think it would be interesting to get a good database of towed loads, and axle weights with and without WDH hitches from actual scale readings.

 

[Billtex2000]