'06 SR210 - Starboard Engine Starting Issue

[YamahaCC]

The other week the Starboard engine would not turn over, I adjusted the throttle/shift and it fired right up. Years of ownership and never had this happen. It was in N but figured it was a fluke. However, the last two times I have been out it has required me running the throttle back and forth through N for it to turn over and start. It is fine all day with countless starting with no issues but when it sits for a week it will 'act up'. I am assuming it is a faulty neutral safety switch starting to go out (typically they fail and do not go out gradually though). It is not a battery issue nor an issue with the switches under the hatch. Before I have my tech replace the part I was curious if there was anything else with these boats I am missing that could also cause this to happen? Thanks!

 

[zipper]

The neutral safety switch should cause both engines to not start. First thing that comes to mind is the lanyard kill switch. It is "two tiered" and if the "key" is worn, or not engaged all the way it may let one engine start and not the other. It could be that shifting the throttle across neutral shakes the kill switch to make both contacts and start the engine.

 

[Beachbummer]

My terms due to confusing use of Turn Over, to some people it means engine "catches and wants to start, to others it means the engine spins on starter power

I'm going to use....
silence- nananananana- brum brum bum...
Nothing (Spins) (Starts)


The lanyard keeps the boat from starting, but does not keep the starter from engaging. (Still spins) The neutral switch has 2 separate poles, it keeps each motor separate.

If the boat does not spin when the key is used to start it, (Nothing) it could be the neutral switch...specially if you jiggle it and it starts..it's 99.999% that switch.

If the boats spins, but does not fire, it could be the lanyard.


(Aside, not to confuse...Even the rear clean out hatch can cause these symptoms, but it is very rare. the rear clean out hatch switch has 2 contacts total for each engine. one prevents spin, same as neutral, the other prevents start, and it shut the engine off if it's running, same circuit as the lanyard. so when it works and you open the clean out hatch, the engine sees the lanyard pulled and the throttle lever out of neutral)

 

[YamahaCC]

My terms due to confusing use of Turn Over, to some people it means engine "catches and wants to start, to others it means the engine spins on starter power

I'm going to use....
silence- nananananana- brum brum bum...
Nothing (Spins) (Starts)


The lanyard keeps the boat from starting, but does not keep the starter from engaging. (Still spins) The neutral switch has 2 separate poles, it keeps each motor separate.

If the boat does not spin when the key is used to start it, (Nothing) it could be the neutral switch...specially if you jiggle it and it starts..it's 99.999% that switch.

If the boats spins, but does not fire, it could be the lanyard.


(Aside, not to confuse...Even the rear clean out hatch can cause these symptoms, but it is very rare. the rear clean out hatch switch has 2 contacts total for each engine. one prevents spin, same as neutral, the other prevents start, and it shut the engine off if it's running, same circuit as the lanyard. so when it works and you open the clean out hatch, the engine sees the lanyard pulled and the throttle lever out of neutral)

The port will fire up and run with no issues when the stb is having this issue so the lanyard is not the issue.

As for 'not turning over' there is only one correct description - which is basically there is no power to the starter, not turning the engine over to start, silence.

These run the same controls that all of my current and past outboards have in the past so the N.S.S. was my quick and dirty diagnosis, but knowing these are a bit different further down the line I wanted to make sure there was nothing else I missed. I ruled out the hatch switches given 'jiggle' solved the issue each time.

I'll have the NSS replaced this week and see how it goes from there.

 

[Beachbummer]

Good deal! I think the same thing of "turn over". but I had heard it used another way. From here on out I will use it as you do.

 

[Tom Dolhancryk]

So , i have what appears to be an issue at the rear hatch. The port was cutting out and it seems to have something to do with rough water... Today i was going to see if something's loose, turned the key on the port engine but now the port had nothing. i switched the connectors in the hatch and it was the Stb engine that did nothing. so what needs to be replaced, the switch at the back or something further along ? thank you

 

[Beachbummer]

If you swapped the switches and the problem moved with the switch.... It's the switch.

One thing to try is to put a nickel above it to see if pressing harder on it will make it activate.

The switch has 2 circuits inside. One to cut the engine from running, the other to keep you from starting it again.

If you want to go out this weekend you could hot wire the switch for now. This will keep the engine running regardless of the position of the clean out hatch. Beware.

Other option:If you hook both engines to the same switch, it will almost work. With either engine with the key in the off position both engines will shut down and neither will start, so both keys must be in the middle position before starting, and if you turn one off, the other will turn off too. Weird arrangement, but I figured you would like to know about it.

Best of luck!!

 

[Tom Dolhancryk]

That was awesome!! It seems to make perfect sense... i had put a piece of weatherstripping foam on the hatch where the buttons contact and covered it with a strip of metal tape used to seal ac ducts.....i took the switch apart, seems pretty simple , looks like there is not much to go wrong, except maybe spring tension. Soyou are saying it is the actual switch with the black button that needs to be replaced? thank you!!

 

[Beachbummer]

that's what behind that harness right? and when you switched it from one side to the other the problem moved. Hence it's the clean out hatch switch, right under the clean out door. The switch does 2 things Two wires it keeps together, two it separates, on activation. (I think it touches the white ones and separates the brown ones to shut off and keep shut off, but I'm not certain. See what the working switch does with the multi-meter and go from there.

You are right, there should not be much to the internals of the switch, but if contact is not made as expected it will fail.

 

[Gym]

@Tom Dolhancryk. I had the same problem with my 06 SX230. I found the black plastic nuts that allow you to adjust or remove the hatch switches were split. I had to look very close but they were definately split causing the switches to move out of position. I could not find them in plastic so replaced them with stainless steel, half height, nuts.