There are a ton of oil change threads here about the 10 hour service as well as other things you should look at.
Here is a recent one.
https://jetboaters.net/threads/10-hour-service-help.27496/#post-457192
It is not hard at all. Some do their own, others send to dealer. You will save a good deal of money doing yourself and time depending on how long the dealer will keep the boat. If you want the dealer to do it for your own piece of mind that is great to.
Doing it yourself is fairly easy.
One thing I would do, now that I know better, is to check the oil level properly before you do oil change. If Dealer, during Prep, over filled, which appears happens from time to time, you want to know this ahead of time.
It is suggested to put back in, in oil, what you take out, or just a bit less to make sure you don't overfill. Half way between L and F or just under that appears to be optimal. Measure what you remove from each engine independently. If the level was too high to begin with you may put too much back in. Use it as a reference point.
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Below is what I did and is really just a rehash of what other members with far more experience have shared on these forums.
1) Order Correct Kit for you engines, as indicated you will need two.
2) Some change oil filters some do not. I did to remove any particles it is keeping during break in.
3) Make sure you get an oil extractor. I got the following linked about and it works fantastic.
4) Go slowly and methodically so you don't spill oil around your engine.
5) Level engines on land or in water. Run on hose if on land or in water for 5-6 minutes each engine independently. Check oil level to determine where the oil is currently. It may be too high, low or just right. Half way between F and L or slightly under has been determined to be optimal.
6) Do one engine at a time.
7) It helps if you puncture the top of the oil filter with a nail or such and give it a quarter turn to help draining. Don't puncture too deep since it threads in the middle. You should do it off center on the top.
8) Read Manual, you want to extract from multiple spots
9) Depending on where your current oil level is, measure what you remove and replace that. 1/2 in each hole indicated on each engine.
10) Some here put slightly less in and check it again after restarting and warming back up after oil change is complete. Then add to correct level.
11) Check Air filter to make sure that it isn't clogged with oil.
12) If your engine was running good before you should be fine, although some change spark plugs, or check the gaps on them. I changed mine as well.
13) Go through step 5 again and check oil level. As others here have mentioned, to see the fresh oil on the stick it helps to pull out the dipstick and lay it on clean white paper towel. The oil level will show on the towel. It can be hard to see in bright sunlight with new oil.
Repeat for second engine.
Also I would check all hose clamps in engine compartment for tightness. Things can wiggle loose on a new boat. I also made sure all wires in engine compartment were secured and everything in there was in general order.
There is a 10 hour checklist in Manual and another one somewhere which was linked in the forums. I can't seem to find it though.
Other things you should be looking at on a per trip basis. Clean out plugs and lubrication, keeping them clean. Drain plugs in keel, engine compartment and ski locker, make sure they are in great working order. I actually bought several extra off amazon for emergency. I can just see some kids snatching the one out of my keel and thinking it is funny.
A ton of useful info on this forum, I couldn't have gotten by without it.
I CHECK OIL all the time. Usually once per outing after engines warm up. To make sure it has a good color and is at the appropriate level. Only takes a few minutes. It is one of my things I do....