14' 242LS Audio Upgrade

[Markk]

Started my audio upgrade today. Amp board was first on the list. I can fit and sit in the helm, but man that is a tight squeeze.

I needed a board that was 3/4"x14.5"x30" and was too impatient to order one from Amazon so I built out of PVC boards from Lowes. I glued the seam with PVC glue and set in an aluminum channel at top and bottom. Turned out very rigid.

I liked how others had mounted in the helm, but I didn't want to cutoff service access to speedo wiring area or the side gunnel area that leads to the throttle area. With some help from my son, we designed a board on hinges that can swing out of the way. It will also make access to rear of board for dressing cable much easier.

I was able to hang hinged side from existing helm mounting points that already had heavy backing block. Other side is supported by aluminum u-channel that I put across helm opening.

A couple early photos below. I'll post some more as it progresses.

 

[skrip345]

Dude, good thinking on the PVC board. I spent like 55 bucks on a 2x2 sheet of 3/4 hdpe. Look forward to more pics!

 

[Markk]

I was missing my sub amp so I dropped the specs into CAD and printed the data files in real dimension to use for spacing.

Used a step bit/uni-bit to contour my holes. Figured $150 for a router might draw un-needed attention from the wife when entering receipts.


Now to start pulling speaker wire.

 

[skrip345]

Looking good, I like your hinge idea. I am mounting mine in the identical location, and I used permanent mounting studs, but the board will be removable with wing nuts. I like your different approach though, and feeding the wires on mine is going to be a bitch. Keep the pics coming.

 

[Markk]

Got a little further today...
...

https://www.amazon.com/Metra-82-4300-Universal-Speaker-Brackets/dp/B0002BG6QY

 

[Markk]

Turned it on and made noise today. Still missing sub amp, blue tooth module and LED controller.A shot of it hinged open.

Here's the aluminum bracing I added.

 

[Tad Steinberg]

What a great idea! Great Install.

 

[Chris K]

How does this look in the experts opinion... Love the look of that setup very clean and gives me inspiration to keep mine clean. Sill trying to figure out the hook ups to the speakers.
Not sure if connecting them in serial is good, or just using the amp to power the swim deck and stern speakers independently, and using the radio outputs to power the bow and tweeters...

 

[MattFX4]

where did you get that distribution block from? Does it read the battery voltage?

 

[Markk]

where did you get that distribution block from? Does it read the battery voltage?

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000FEQ802/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I got the idea for this one from @Mainah in this thread...https://jetboaters.net/threads/detailed-2016-242-ls-1k-audio-upgrade.9400/

On mine it shows voltage only in first 10 seconds of power on. Voltage readout does not stay on. I wish it did. Be sure to order Mini-ANL fuses not the full size ANL.

 

[MattFX4]

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000FEQ802/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I got the idea for this one from @Mainah in this thread...https://jetboaters.net/threads/detailed-2016-242-ls-1k-audio-upgrade.9400/

On mine it shows voltage only in first 10 seconds of power on. Voltage readout does not stay on. I wish it did. Be sure to order Mini-ANL fuses not the full size ANL.

Thanks! I already my my system set up with distribution blocks so think I'll just add an led voltmeter in battery compartment that monitors batter my voltage at all times. My boat does it already but too lazy to do the "voltage fix" required to make the read out correct

 

[scokill]

Outstanding! I just finished replacing an old Kicker amp with that went bad and replacing with JL to drive tower speakers and sub, adding a new JL 4 channel to drive 4 new JL speakers while moving everything from the battery storage area. I had a piece of HDPE board laying around cut at the perfect angle to mount and stay out of the way of the steering. I can't get into the helm area enough to work on the other side, so it had to be on the near side. You have the Cadillac of mounts, I have the Yugo!

 

[Markk]

I played around with a band pass box today. Only exit path is a 4" port. Thinking I may line up the 4" port to exit under co-pilot seat. On my model there is a recessed area that would always be open to cabin regardless of seat position.

Thinking I might remove the carpet and apply resin to waterproof. Add 3/4" feet to elevate and place right against seat bottom, the drill the 4" exit path.

Box sounds great when it has an exit path to the cabin (seat open, glove box removed). Hoping it would sound equally good with its port direct through seat.

 

[Markk]

After several measurements, and crawling into storage area, I cut fiberglass(and aluminum plate) tonight. Ported my 10" sample box into the seat "toilet bowl" cavity.

Initial results I'm really pleased. No rattles anywhere. No lost energy in storage compartment. In fact if you stick your head in storage bay you hear more of the 6.5" bleed than the sub. With the port exiting under the seat it has two planes to couple against. Sounds very even from front to back of boat. Is loudest at drivers chair since this cavity folds back fired directly to captain after bouncing off wall/helm wall/floor.


This toilet bowl area under the lounger is really thick. It is fiberglass, then 3/8" aluminum plate, then more fiberglass. Took 3 drill batteries, 2 drills alternating to keep them cool, and about 40 minutes to drill. I'm assuming aluminum plate is used to anchor bucket seat in non-tower models.




I'm going to coin this my sleeper sub. Other than hearing it, no one would know it's there. Port has free access to cabin space regardless if lounger is upright or laid out.

Going to sea test tomorrow. After that I'll finalize a box design with fiberglass resin to waterproof. Current box is a 10" driver in a 12"x12"x18" OD. 3/4" pvc feet are elevating box above carpet. Toying with ways to upsize same concept to a 12" driver. Would probably have to set 12" driver at a 45deg angle instead of 90 shown here.

More to come...

 

[Markk]

I'm extremely happy with my ported 10" solution under the co-pilot's chair, however I now want to attack the swim platform area. I'm toying with the idea of placing a larger diaphragm band pass box whose port will exit under the port swim platform back. The blower exhausts out of the starboard side, however the port side is pretty open. I would coin this Sleeper Sub 2.0.

Current idea would be installing (2) aluminum square tubing cross pieces above engines. I think I could make these easily removable through a sleeving process. Once this "deck" area is established I think I could have plenty of room for a larger box as shown above. Probably create a form/impression of the area with foam in a bag, then build a fiberglass molded box with sealed MDF reinforcement. All bass energy would be directed through 4" port to seating area.

Given I'm just in the idea birth phase, I'd really be interested in any complications the other members could think of. I'm not near my boat right now. I'm working in Vancouver all week, but have ton's of spare time on my hands.

 

[Markk]

Alternate driver orientation

 

[swatski]

@Markk Very impressive! I think you are definitely the first to successfully tackle that aluminum plate. What a great solution.

With the engine bay, I would consider that compartment can get pretty hot, especially after a few minute WOT runs, heavy towing etc. I would also watch to not obstruct the engine bay air intakes, the performance could suffer drastically if you starve the engines of air. That is a number one performance mods in jet skis due to enclosed compartments - air intakes.

--

 

[Markk]

@Markk Very impressive! I think you are definitely the first to successfully tackle that aluminum plate. What a great solution.

With the engine bay, I would consider that compartment can get pretty hot, especially after a few minute WOT runs, heavy towing etc. I would also watch to not obstruct the engine bay air intakes, the performance could suffer drastically if you starve the engines of air. That is a number one performance mods in jet skis due to enclosed compartments - air intakes.

--

That is a great point on fresh air intake. I guess those two existing open ports are for fresh air input. Hadn't considered that....this idea may be dead in the water.

 

[Tad Steinberg]

I don't think it's dead.....

Figure out a way to put either on the other side such that the port is going to the exhaust and not the intake. Or take the wall out between the port side engine bay and battery areas , modify the access port (black ring with about 8 screws) open it up and use that space for a box. Albeit a little tight to access from under the seat. Once you opened up access from the engine compartment, it should be pretty easy.

Another thought - the two inlet air ports into the engine area (where the box is currently envisioned to go) are mainly there for two reasons. One, to feed the engine and two for bilge air vent (intake). As long as you have two holes the same size or bigger unobstructed you should be ok. For air intake that's self explanatory. For bilge vent the most important is the location of the suction (at the bottom of the bilge) which you aren't planning on moving. For that suction to work, adequate outside vents have to be present. Simply cut two holes the same size or a bit larger below the box. You don't want the put the air intake holes by the exhaust for risk of exhaust gas recirculating or exhaust gas ingestion.

Or better yet design your box such that they don't interfere with the current ports.

If you are going to make the box completely out of fiberglass, the engine temperature shouldn't be a problem. The whole boat's made of fiberglass. Fiberglass is a thermoset which means once set you can't/won't (really) melt. Just be careful of material selection. Also the side walls are carpeted wood in the engine compartment.

I love this idea. I've been toying with the idea for a while. There is a lot of unused space back in that port corner. That's one of the reasons why the newer boats have the storage space from the rear facing seats. I currently have one unused sub channel the needs a home.


Best of luck. Let me know if I can help.