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16 242 x reverse cable replacement help

what happened to the cable ? did you try to lube it up before replacement ? I had success on an older model forcing light weight oil with PB blaster using a hose clamped on by the jet nozzle. Then disconnected the cable at the throttle attached to a drill and spun it slowly while pulling it in and out
 
What made the end brake off did the servo controller have enough power to snap it? It should be fairly simple to remove but keep us posted on what the complete process is . You should need some type of special tool to remove the nut on the thru hull connection . The floor / gas tank cover will need to be removed . Apply a heat gun to the Allen key bolts that hold the floor down to help break the loc title if they get tight while loosening turn them back in and then out they can snap.
 
Any more info on this ? One of maybe cables I believe needs replacing
 
Any more info on this ? One of maybe cables I believe needs replacing

Whats the symptom? Is the boat throwing a code or did you release the red levers on the server and manually move the gates and notice that they are not moving smoothly?
 
Persistent code on SB side - used manual release and it’s def not as smooth as port - takes more effort to move
 
I haven't changed one on my current boat but did it on the 2005 AR230.

From what I remember

- Disconnect from the throttle, In your case the servo

- Disconnect from the gate

- Use a crow claw to remove the nut from the outside of the hull

- Remove the clean out tray to access were it passes through the hull remove silicone you may need to also clamp on the the through hull fitting while turning the crows claw. Its vague in my memory of exactly how it comes apart but shouldn't be difficult. Maybe the water box had to be moved to get access to the thru hull fitting.

- Tie some string or a snake to the cable by the throttle , Servo in your case

- Remove the cable and have a helper feed the snake in

- hook up the new cable to the snake and reverse the process

I did have success taking a tight cable put some nuts tightened on each other to protect the threads clamped a drill chuck to the nuts, with the cable disconnected at both ends started rotating the cable with the drill while pushing it in and out. It was almost like new with very little drag until I put the drill in reverse then snapped the cable. It made sense why the cable snapped they are wound in one direction going in reverse un spooled it making it sheer apart internally. It wasn't a big deal since I had the new cable ready to go in but I was always so curious to how many more years it would have lasted with the spinning push pull technique that helped release 85% the internal friction that the cable had.
 
Thanks, I did it on several
Of my older Yamahas just wasn’t sure if this one w TBW was any different
 
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