2001 Jet ski purchase?

[Pullen724]

Im looking at possibly buying a 2001 Yamaha XLT 1200. Its been sitting outside most of its life and has around 200 hours on it. Needs some cosmetic work (seat, feet pads, possibly graphics). I test drove it and it would run good then it felt like it was cavitating at times, even at higher speeds but it wasnt consistent. Basically, it would rev higher but not go faster then the next time you try to go it seemed to “catch” and go no problem. Does this sound like pump lining/impeller needs replaced or could it be internal engine issue too?

Just trying to decide what to offer and if it is worth the trouble messing with trying to figure it out.

Are parts easy to find for them this old?

If it needed a new impeller and lining, how much do you think Im looking at on parts alone?

 

[Betik]

FYI I bought a 2015 v1 sport with 10 hours on it for $6k.

 

[Ronnie]

@Pullen724 , if I am right the 1200 XLT has a two stroke engine and what you are describing sounds like a fuel delivery problem. Either the fuel lines have gone or are going bad and/or the carbs need to be rebuilt. If I was going to buy that ski or another two stroke with a similar history (less than 12 hours per year for 17 years), I would replace all the fuel lines, fuel selector switch, fuel and two stroke oil as well as in line fuel filters if any. This is on top of having the carbs rebuilt. I've had a lot of two stroke skis and after selling the one my son and I rebuilt I'm sure I won't buy another. There was just too much maintenance involved with all of the two strokes I've had compared to the four strokes I've had and have. The mpg on a two stroke is a lot lower than a four stroke as well. By example, my last two stroke has a 760 cc motor and a 10 gallon fuel tank, my other ski is an FX HO with a 1,052 cc four stroke motor and an 18 gallon fuel tank. Last summer the two stroke had to be filled up three times in one day, five times over the two day weekend. By comparison the four stroke only burned through one tank of gas over the same weekend.

 

[boudin]

The 2001 XLT has a 66v power valve motor and parts are a bit more expensive than other 2-strokers. Be sure to do a compression test. You'll want 120psi in each cylinder +/- 5%. If you end up buying, you'll want to convert it to premix, rebuild the carburetors with genuine Mikuni kits, new gaskets, put in a d-plate, and then address the pump issues that are causing cavitation. It's a bear rebuilding the carbs in that particular ski as they are located under the 'stinger' exhaust pipe, and removing the stinger is a challenge your first time. Here are some detailed instructions I wrote up many years ago:

http://www.greenhulk.net/forums/showthread.php?t=129441&p=1475581&viewfull=1#post1475581

Don't run it any more without rebuilding the carbs or you will lean out and up a cylinder. The 2-stroke skis are very sensitive to a lean condition. Carbs in that ski should be rebuilt every 2-3 years. Look on greenhulk.net for the factory carb jet/needle seat/high and low adjustments turns. All should be set back to factory with the factory air box.

You are in for some work, so be prepared. If compression is good, I would not pay more than $1500. If compression is not good, and the motor is still turning over, $500.

By comparison I just sold a 2010 VX with a high-hour motor (800 hrs) for $2500. I would take a high hour VX any day over an XLT with a brand new zero hour motor. The VX is going to be far more reliable. You can find them with lower hours in great condition for $3500.

-Greg

 

[Pullen724]

Thanks for the responses. I think I will keep my eye out for another one. Im drawn more toward looking at yamaha’s but are the seadoos or any other brand better or easier to work on in the long run?