2005 AR230 New to Me - Anchor Light and Bilge Question

[BrandonC_OK]

First post - I picked up a 2005 AR230 a few weeks ago, I've had it out twice and I'm slowly fixing several small issues. It doesn't have an anchor light but the existing socket appears to be good. Can anyone tell me the length of the OEM pole? I can't seem to find it anywhere.

One more thing I haven't been able to resolve here... water in the bilge and ski locker.

I'm well aware of the metal drain plug at the bottom of the stern. Even with that removed and the front of the boat raised somewhat, there is still a few inches of water in the ski locker.

There is a plastic screw in plug between the tow motors in the engine compartment. I've unscrewed this thinking everything would drain to the drain plug but it didn't. Is it supposed to (maybe stopped up)? If not, what is the purpose of this?

I've read a few posts regarding adding a second bilge. I would assume on an AR230 this would be in front of the divider between the rear area where the existing bilge works and the middle area where the plastic drain plug described above is located.

BTW - this forum has been a tremendous resource as I researched the AR230s and made my purchase. So far I've repaired: blowing out the pee holes, replacing the light bulb for the bow nav lights, drilled out and rethreaded the front tower bolt on the starboard side, replaced the trim on the port locker, replaced rubber feet on multiple hatches, replaced missing cupholders and a deep cleaning!

Other issues needing attention: depth gage isn't working, cleanout plugs need to be rebuilt, horn isn't working, anchor is attached with a cheap poly cord, make poles for cockpit cushions, WAX!, fix loose stand on front of trailer and I'm sure there are more that I don't have on my list. I was shocked that the boat had both the filler cushion in the bow and the cockpit.

Thanks,
Brandon
Claremore, OK

 

[dgfreeze]

I’d estimate my stern light pole to be about 4’ long. I can try to get a better measurement on that after awhile.

I presume the plug in the ski locker is removed? If so, I’m guessing it’s just clogged. String trimmer line, or a gentle shot of compressed air should do the trick. Also, as I recall, there are multiple plugs in the engine compartment. Make sure they’re all removed to allow the water to gravitate rearward.

As for a second bilge, I would recommend putting it all the way back in the true bilge, close to the drain plug and scupper. If you remove the cleanout tray, and both “mufflers” (water boxes), you have fairly decent access to that area.

Has the scupper been upgraded to stainless steel yet? If not, that is much more important than a few inches of water you’re having difficulty getting drained. Get it changed out immediately.

One last suggestion, if your depth finder isn’t working anyway, pop that gauge out, and install a Xintex fume detector in that hole, and get yourself a chart plotter with its own transducer. Much better transducers, more reliable, and a chart plotter/fish finder/all that jazz to boot. I mounted mine on a bracket to the right upper side of the dash, kind of on top of the gunnel, just inside the windshield. Go nuts, man. This stuff is a blast. Lol

 

[Brad_Ct]

Sounds like you are in for an adventure like I was with our boat. My ski locker doesn’t drain completely either because the drain plug is above the bottom of the locker but it’s not a couple inches of water.

 

[Scottintexas]

glad to have you on board !

a few inches of water in the ski locker, I'd be more concerned how it's getting there than getting it out,

is it dry before you go to the lake or is this rain water ?

your scupper valve ( that drains the deck area) is a tremendous risk since it sits below the water line, I would make sure that's in good condition or replace it with a metal valve,

your boat is 17 yrs old, there are a lot of hose clamps that could be in questionable condition, if one fails and the hose comes off you could be pushing water into your hull with the engines running, some of these are under the cleanout hatch panel and you have to remove it to see them.

I'd highly recommend an inexpensive high water alarm in the engine compartment along with a secondary bilge pump,

take a look at the link in my signature below for "known issues" with these model boats,

.

 

[BrandonC_OK]

No plug in Ski Locker. Looking for obstructions downstream of there was going to be my next step.

I thought my current bilge was in the area you describe but I haven't looked that closely. I was shocked it was actually working!

It appears the scupper has been replaced but unfortunately with a plastic one. Looks like they shortened the drain line because it is taut and doesn't go all the way on the cockpit drain fitting. That might be a winter project.

I don't need a chartplotter and really don't 'need' a depth gage. But it would be nice to have when pulling tube/skier/wakeboarders behind the boat. Haven't thought about a fume detector. Most people I know don't even run the blower (or worse the blower exhaust hoses aren't attached!). But I do have a significant gas smell in the engine compartment. My plan was to replace fuel lines and clamps thinking they are brittle. For now I open the hatch where the blower exhaust is and run the blower a few minutes before starting.

I forgot to mention the fuel gage appears to be stuck on 1/8 tank. I read last night about how to calibrate it. If that doesn't work, I'll order the replacement identified on this forum (again, this forum is a GREAT resource).

 

[BrandonC_OK]

@Scottintexas most of this water was from a good hand washing (my power washer quit). I don't think a significant amount of additional water came from a day on the lake with 6 people in and out of the water.

The first time we put it in the water we didn't get out of the boat and I don't remember any water in the bilge. I did open the hatch to check a few times (too many posts here scared me with the scupper). I'll double check once I get it dry and take it out again.

Are you referring to the hatch panel that hides the cleanout plugs? I have two portals there with screw in covers that I can remove to see presumably down into the engine compartment.

I bought and assorted set of hose clamps at Harbor Freight an carry them on the boat. I already had to replace one of the original on an engine pee line after removing them to blow crud out with a compressor.

Funny story - during a test drive before I bought it... we were going full speed across the lake (45 mph) with the previous owner driving when I heard a loud bang. A plug blew out and even though he shut it off quickly a 20 ft tall fountain came barreling into the boat as he shut it down. Not the best way to start a test drive!!!!!! I've since learned that the port cleanout plug is hard to get locked into place. I suspect he didn't have it seated properly. Luckily, no damage to the hole, plug or hatch door.

 

[Scottintexas]

I can't emphasize this enough,

if you're getting inches of water in your ski locker from the lake you're in danger of losing the boat,

if you're opening the engine hatch while underway and don't see water I wouldn't be as worried,

////
cobra locks will lock your plugs in, they're cheap insurance, if the plug isn't seated they won't lock, if they're locked, the plug isn't coming out,

.

 

[BrandonC_OK]

I appreciate the concern, definitely not getting that much water from the lake. It was there before launch the last time out. I just assumed it would have drained out the rear plug during transit to the lake. Which again points to a clog between the ski locker and rear drain.

At one time it appears that this boat had significant water sitting it it. The previous owner said he replaced both ECM's and the sludge in the ski locker and even on top of the fuel tank support that theory. I wonder if sat for years outside with the drain plug removed but didn't actually drain.

 

[drewkaree]

There's a thread around here somewhere, but I don't know if it applies to your year, where someone ran an inspection camera into the swim locker drain, and found there's little room for water to drain out of that area quick enough to completely empty while underway, which means you might have better luck on land jacking up the front end of the trailer and leaving the plug out.

A second bilge pump in the very back end near the plug will help you empty out more water than the OEM bilge pump, and MOST DEFINITELY replace that plastic scupper drain with a stainless one. The hose connecting it to the deck drain is easy to replace, but the stainless scupper may be long enough to remedy that for you as well.

I would not trust Harbor Freight's hose clamps to last long, some stainless T-bolt hose clamps are more appropriate, and double them up where possible. Amazon can get you a nice assortment of sizes.

Look in the FAQ for @Julian's leak thread, and people like @Scottintexas and others will be a great help to you for your boat issues as you find them. Clear wide-angle pics as well as some close-ups are always a great help for others to point out or show you how to tackle some things using your own boat pics for guidance, or noting things you aren't familiar with just yet.

 

[zipper]

I could go on and on about water draining from the hull. Below the ski locker is the deepest part of the hull and the bilge. Never liked how rainwater flowed away from the scupper and ended up in the ski locker and then bilge, while at a slip. I put a level on it. On my 07 Ar230. Jack it all the way up on the trailer to get it all out.
Anyway, the light is expensive for what it is. 2005 Yamaha AR230 High Output (SRT1100AD) Electrical 3 | Yamaha Sports Plaza

 

[dgfreeze]

No plug in Ski Locker. Looking for obstructions downstream of there was going to be my next step.

I thought my current bilge was in the area you describe but I haven't looked that closely. I was shocked it was actually working!

It appears the scupper has been replaced but unfortunately with a plastic one. Looks like they shortened the drain line because it is taut and doesn't go all the way on the cockpit drain fitting. That might be a winter project.

I don't need a chartplotter and really don't 'need' a depth gage. But it would be nice to have when pulling tube/skier/wakeboarders behind the boat. Haven't thought about a fume detector. Most people I know don't even run the blower (or worse the blower exhaust hoses aren't attached!). But I do have a significant gas smell in the engine compartment. My plan was to replace fuel lines and clamps thinking they are brittle. For now I open the hatch where the blower exhaust is and run the blower a few minutes before starting.

I forgot to mention the fuel gage appears to be stuck on 1/8 tank. I read last night about how to calibrate it. If that doesn't work, I'll order the replacement identified on this forum (again, this forum is a GREAT resource).

Your risk to take, but I strongly recommend at least putting your hand on the scupper inside the bilge, and giving it a little shake. You'd be surprised how many people say theirs just snapped right off without any effort.

Your bilge pump from factory should be in the engine bay, between the two engines, toward the back. What I really don't like about the factory bilge is that it is a parasitic bilge pump. It cycles periodically to "sense" for water, and if there is water present, it pumps until there is none. Problem with that, it will run the battery dead in a matter of a few days, whether it ever sees water or not, just from cycling every few minutes. I put in a float switch, and a second bilge pump, which allows for it to be "live" indefinitely without draining the battery unless it actually kicks on.

I boat in a few shallow lakes, and we also like to try new places, so I really like being able to see the depth. Also, going to new lakes, and kind of exploring makes the chart plotter really nice, especially when cell signal is spotty at best.

As far as the stuck fuel gauge, the KUS part number for the matching fuel sending unit is in my sig below, just need to shorten the screws that hold it down, and transplant the wire plug from the old one to the new one. You can order the "direct fit" somewhere, but it's literally the same unit, but prewired, and maybe comes with screws?? Can't recall for sure.

Yes, the cleanout hatch is the oval shaped tray that you reach through when installing the cleanout plugs. In addition to the surrounding screws, there are large hose clamps for the large cleanout ports, a small drain hose, and two safety switches that need loosened/disconnected from underneath. I got lazy, and quit tightening the large hose clamps, and am able to kind of flip the tray over to the side when I need to get in there for something. If you're going to do a lot of work in there, it's definitely worth it to remove the drain hose and switches, though.

The whole reason I suggest the Xintex fume detector is because of how often I realized I forgot to run the blower. After seeing one too many videos of boats exploding, and people getting or at least almost getting hurt, I decided it was time to address it before something tragic happens to my wife or kids.

 

[BrandonC_OK]

Thanks everyone.

@zipper - I did find the anchor light available, was hoping for a cheaper universal but wasn't sure what length was needed.

@drewkaree Thanks for the input. Update - There was no plug in the aft end of the ski locker, just a hole. However, the forward wall of the engine compartment did have a plastic plug screwed into it near the bottom. Once I removed that, the ski locker started to drain. Unfortunately, water has to get 3" or so deep to flow over the cross brace that holds the engine mount so I doubt it will every completely drain. Then there is another screw in plastic plug between the engines on the bottom of the engine compartment. I'm assuming this drains to the lower hull where the drain to the outside is located. I've jacked up the trailer, we'll see how dry I can get it.

Is there any reason to keep these plugs in place when underway?

@dgfreeze - I'll definitely check on the scupper. I know it has been replaced because the plastic is still bright white and the rubber in the scupper is very soft and dark black and they didn't clean the sealant they used very well. As I mentioned before, I believe they shortened the drain line as it doesn't go all the way on the fitting on the cockpit side. I'll probably replace the scupper and the line this winter. I'll definitely remove the access tray and tighten everything in that area.

Thanks for the background on the factory bilge. I'll double check to see how this one functions.

I appreciate the additional feedback on the fume detector, definitely something to consider. I don't disagree with your reasoning for the chartplotter. Just not a priority at this time as we'll be on lakes I'm familiar with. Also - you can download Google Maps on your phone so you still have access even without a cellular signal. GPS will still give you your location.

I thought the fuel sending unit was Centroid according to the threads in the FAQ.

https://jetboaters.net/threads/my-ongoing-fuel-sender-saga-good-news-replacing-fuel-sender.4320/

 

[dgfreeze]

Thanks everyone.

@zipper - I did find the anchor light available, was hoping for a cheaper universal but wasn't sure what length was needed.

@drewkaree Thanks for the input. Update - There was no plug in the aft end of the ski locker, just a hole. However, the forward wall of the engine compartment did have a plastic plug screwed into it near the bottom. Once I removed that, the ski locker started to drain. Unfortunately, water has to get 3" or so deep to flow over the cross brace that holds the engine mount so I doubt it will every completely drain. Then there is another screw in plastic plug between the engines on the bottom of the engine compartment. I'm assuming this drains to the lower hull where the drain to the outside is located. I've jacked up the trailer, we'll see how dry I can get it.

Is there any reason to keep these plugs in place when underway?

@dgfreeze - I'll definitely check on the scupper. I know it has been replaced because the plastic is still bright white and the rubber in the scupper is very soft and dark black and they didn't clean the sealant they used very well. As I mentioned before, I believe they shortened the drain line as it doesn't go all the way on the fitting on the cockpit side. I'll probably replace the scupper and the line this winter. I'll definitely remove the access tray and tighten everything in that area.

Thanks for the background on the factory bilge. I'll double check to see how this one functions.

I appreciate the additional feedback on the fume detector, definitely something to consider. I don't disagree with your reasoning for the chartplotter. Just not a priority at this time as we'll be on lakes I'm familiar with. Also - you can download Google Maps on your phone so you still have access even without a cellular signal. GPS will still give you your location.

I thought the fuel sending unit was Centroid according to the threads in the FAQ.

https://jetboaters.net/threads/my-ongoing-fuel-sender-saga-good-news-replacing-fuel-sender.4320/

I'll be honest, I either forgot or wasn't aware of a Centroid option. Here's another thread on the whole sending unit replacement. You get whichever one you want to get, they should all work fine.

https://jetboaters.net/threads/fuel-tank-sending-unit-08-ar230.26947/

Just another quick note, the stainless steel scuppers are a little longer (2-3"??) than the plastic ones. May or may not need a new hose. Just a thought.

Lastly, where the ski locker drains into the engine compartment, in that narrow compartment in the front, my boat has another drain in the floor right beside it. That allows water into a cavity below the engine compartment, which gravity feeds back to the bilge. You might end up with a half inch of water that's left in there, but shouldn't be anywhere near inches. If it is, the other drain needs opened up also.

 

[BrandonC_OK]

Todays' update...

Thanks for the tip on the scupper, I'll be removing the hatch tray and checking that area soon. The blue arrow below highlights the shortened hose.

I found the additional drain you describe and it did drain the front area (1/3) under the motors. So in total, there is screw in plug in the aft end of the ski locker, one on the forward end of the engine bay, one in the bottom of the forward section of the engine bay and one in the middle section of the engine bay. (red arrows)

My bilge is in the back (3/3) section of the engine bay. (yellow arrow)

I found a rubber cap about the size of a silver dollar in the bottom of the bilge once all the water drained. Anyone know where that goes?

As for the fuel sending unit, I cleaned it off and adjusted the full set screw (after filling the tank completely full) and it moved from 1/8 to past F (I figured it was better to go just past instead of right on the F line). I guess there's no way to tell if the E set screw needs adjusting without running it out of gas. Maybe carry a 5 gallon can and test it out? I can also get to 1/2 and see how many gallons it takes to refill. Pic of the sending unit below.

One more question - while searching for bilge drain plugs, I noticed my hands smelled like gasoline when finished. Any ideas where to check for fuel leaks? I'm assuming there's a connection on both ends of the fill hose and the two hoses from the tank to the motor. The first day after I had it home, I believe the tank heated up in the sun and while cleaning/adjusting the plastic cover on the fuel line where it connects to the tank, I noticed a some spray out of the end of the line when I moved it around. I'm guessing those hoses are old and a little brittle and it would be a good idea to replace? (another vote for the fume detector)

 

[drewkaree]

If you had "some spray" out of a fill line, I would most definitely start by replacing that line, and most likely all others.

That gas smell is another indicator of the need for the suggested fume detector, as well as to track down the cause of the smell ASAP and address it.

Your hands likely smelled because you're leaking gas somewhere in the engine compartment, which is cause for alarm. If I were in your position, the boat wouldn't be used again until I either found the leak and addressed it, or replaced any and all fuel lines to head off more problems, likely in the near future.

I would err on the gauge being just under full, lest it be forgotten and cause someone to believe there's more fuel on board than there actually might be, and possibly end up running out while on the water.

 

[BrandonC_OK]

Thanks for the reply. I agree on finding the leak before using.

To clarify, the spray was on the port fuel supply line from the tank to the engine where it attaches to the top of the tank.

If there is a leak around the tank, are you saying that would drain to the bottom bilge and not be in the engine compartment?

The water I had my hands in came from the ski locker then into the front engine bilge area when I removed the drain plug. Then to the middle engine area when I removed the bottom plug in the front area

 

[drewkaree]

Thanks for the reply. I agree on finding the leak before using.

To clarify, the spray was on the port fuel supply line from the tank to the engine where it attaches to the top of the tank.

If there is a leak around the tank, are you saying that would drain to the bottom bilge and not be in the engine compartment?

The water I had my hands in came from the ski locker then into the front engine bilge area when I removed the drain plug. Then to the middle engine area when I removed the bottom plug in the front area

If you had enough water, or if the water shifted while underway, it would slosh around and mix with the gas, spreading it into all those areas.

It sounds like you definitely have water coming in somewhere, or it's just not fully draining. In addition, and more importantly, you have a gas leak somewhere.

The gas leak is infinitely more important to fix, as you can't really narrow down how it's being spread around the boat just yet, due to the water inside, therefore, the danger is that you may replace that one hose, and still have a leak from elsewhere that you simply haven't come across, but is being spread around the boat by the water intrusion.

The design to get water OUT of the boat by allowing drainage everywhere, ultimately for the bilge and drain plug to hopefully let it out, is working against you when fuel is leaking from somewhere. Your assessment of "it's an old boat" is a great mindset to take, because these things need to be replaced, but people often don't consider their boat "old enough" to fix such things "just yet".

Fuel hose is your top priority, as you won't need to fix anything else once the boat explodes ?

While you're in there, snap some pics for possible causes for other water leaks, or just to help yourself follow just how water would move/escape from the boat, and future reference. Pics are far better than memory or help you when recollection is failing you. You seem willing and reasonably adept, and you should have already noticed these are easy enough to work on, so be encouraged - you can solve this, and we're here for help.

I wish I was more familiar with the older boats, as things don't often translate, but troubleshooting starts with generalities until you can narrow it down to specifics, and there's a wealth of info here

 

[TimW451]

Look here for an anchor light and then buy on Amazon.

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www.delzer.com

 

[BrandonC_OK]

@drewkaree

Boat is finally stored under the overhang of my barn (in the dry). I had to remove almost a foot of gravel/dirt so the wakeboard tower would fit underneath. It was much taller than I expected!

I pulled the boat up my 10% grade driveway and drained as much water as I could out of it.

I've ordered new fuel lines and will replace them later this week. While reviewing the parts diagram, I noticed the fuel pumps are in the tank so the fuel lines are definitely pressurized from the tank to the engine. Hopefully replacing the lines will solve the problem.

I have all hatches open including the engine compartment. Once everything is dried out, I'll hook up the garden hose and run each engine and see if I can find any fuel leaks. (yes, I've read that the engine needs to be started before turning on the water).

I didn't get a response on the anchor light length, guess I'll order the factory replacement.

I grew up on a farm, my dad was a diesel mechanic and I'm an engineer. While I don't have the experience to tear down and rebuild an engine, I'm not too bad at troubleshooting and fixing most things. Especially with the type of help forums like this one provides.

Thanks again to all for taking the time to share their thoughts.

Brandon

 

[Brad_Ct]

I just found an old post from 2016 where @Bruce stated the factory pole was 5’.