2014 Red Gelcoat

[sstegh]

So I got a small scratch from a dock over memorial weekend and I was looking for gelcoat to match for repairing. I found a color called "maple red" for yamaha 2014 boats but I don't kmow if thats the right red for a 242LS, I think there were 2014 AR/SX models offered in red too. Anyone know is "maple red" is correct?

 

[Boat Crazy]

I do not have the answer but if the scratch is small enough, red permanent marker may cover it. I use red permanent marker for small rock dings from traveling, then wax over.

 

[Greg M]

the boat in your avatar is Maple Red. ;D you and my wife have great taste in color!

what im needing is gel coat repair in the off white the back deck is in! storm hit, the cleet broke off the rental slip.. small group in back but its right where you can see it perfectly

 

[Glassman]

You can call Spectrum Color direct at: (800) 754-5516

 

[sstegh]

Thank you guys! @Glassman, I think it was their web site where I found the maple red color. I'll give them a call.

 

[Kevin107]

Spectrum color

 

[sstegh]

Thats the stuff. I'll get some of that and see how bad I am at gelcoat repair, this will be my first attempt.

 

[txav8r]

Yiour going to do great with it @sstegh , that patch kit is easy to use. I want to say however, that I did a patch on a pretty good scratch, and the area around the taped area in question, took on an outline of the taped off area. I was pissed...but now I can't find it. Even after polish and compounding, it was there, and now it is gone. So you may see something similar, but after a few times in the sun it seems to blend. @Glassman , what the hell causes that?

 

[Greg M]

a few tips..........
tape off as close to the "gouge" as possible as a precaution.
clean out said gouge with a q-tip and some acetone - use the acetone SPARINGLY!! all you want to do is remove any traces of oils/muck
using a q-tip again, sparingly apply a light coat in the gouge making sure to fill all the little nooks and crannies - don't try to fill it!
let it sit until its tacky - THEN fill it in - once filled remove the tape! ( I know trust me )
put a few pieces of tape at the end of the gouge (runout when drawing the filler), take a flat bendable something - a playing card worked best for me - draw it with the gouge (if its a line gouge go with the scratch) NOT across it if possible BUT if its on a curve go WITH the curve applying enough pressure that the card assumes the natural plane of the surface - this will level it off to a decent degree and adopt the natural line of where the gouge is at (whichever way your running the card put tape at the end so you don't smear on undamaged areas and having to sand it excessively)

(playing card tip - hold it long ways, put it on your boat at a 45 degree angle, press it into your boat until its rounded out and the edge in contact is flat. it doesn't take a huge amount of pressure)

any over spill, wipe immediately

let it cure completely. you WILL see discoloration, at first. just because its hard doesn't mean its cured. as noted, this will fade in time.

once cured, take some **800 grit wet/dry sand paper and a foam rubber sanding block; get after it using plenty of water - the area are will turn white and chaulky, no worries, you want that. once you are satisfied with the shape, take some 1000 grit, wet sand until you cant see sand lines (it sucks but like anything, more effort here means better result at the end). now you should have a mirror-silky smooth to the touch finish that's hazy. time for some compound, then some polish, then wax.

backyard mechanic tip!!!!!! 3M makes a kit for restoring headlights. It has 3 levels of grit sand paper on 2in circular disks, a drill adaptor with foam attachment, compound wheel and polish. Works like a champ for small wickers you want to fix. pro tip, do NOT run your drill wide open, run it as slow as possible and always keep things wet while sanding and compounding.

 

[Glassman]

Yiour going to do great with it @sstegh , that patch kit is easy to use. I want to say however, that I did a patch on a pretty good scratch, and the area around the taped area in question, took on an outline of the taped off area. I was pissed...but now I can't find it. Even after polish and compounding, it was there, and now it is gone. So you may see something similar, but after a few times in the sun it seems to blend. @Glassman , what the hell causes that?

Could just be the difference between the old and the new.....the prep is key to any good repair. The underlying surface will dictate how your repair will turn out and how it will hold up.
If you apply new gel coat to the existing hull without bringing back the original luster as best you can, the gel coat repair will stick out like a sore thumb.

Polish the hull in the surrounding area as best you can without getting too much gunk in the void of the scratch or gouge. You'll only have to clean it out afterward and before applying the gel coat paste. Once you have an idea of the condition of the hull you can match the color better. Just because you have the same original color, it doesn't mean it will match. You may have to add a tiny, tiny drop of black or white or blue....to get the color just right.

Once the repair cures it will usually change color slightly. Buffing it helps to blend the spot into the surrounding area. Be very careful if you intend to use something like a drill - I'd recommend practicing on something other than your boat first.

Mel, are you complaining that you can't see the repair??? That's a first!

 

[txav8r]

@Glassman ... well of course not! lol, but I was absolutely freaked that on a new boat, outside of my repair area, on the outside border of the taped off area, I could see that outline after the repair! I had no idea why as I had not done anything to that area. And...it was only the dust that had settled into the area beyond the tape that was showing. I thought WTF and polished my ass off trying to blend it. I still don't know why that did that, but it was gone the next time I looked at it weeks later, after boating. I did follow all directives but I admit my buffing skills may not be worthy of a @Glassman repair!

 

[Greg M]

well, guess Ill put up some photos of a repair.... I GOUGED the shit out of my gelcoat this weekend. Ramp and Clamp flipped straight down, got my bow horribly.

I don't think its a ramp and clamp flaw per se, 242 LS boats have a "step" on the bow that I thought might be an issue. When I installed and tested, the trailer was sitting almost level because the lake level was so high. This weekend on a normal ramp, with more trailer angle, I eased up, felt boat touch on ramp and clamp, barely hit the throttles, and heard/felt something that definitely didn't sound right! went up front, clamp was straight down, and upper arm got the boat big time!

Ill post more later when gel coat gets here.

 

[txav8r]

@Greg M , it was good to meet you guys this weekend! Sorry to hear about the issues with the ramp n clamp as well as the damage. I tried the Boat Buddy and hated it but we have other members that use and like it. I think you discovered the achilles heal of these units...difference in ramp angle and depth. I had to launch extremely deep this weekend because the ramp angle was so shallow...and I was launching solo. Clara helped when we retrieved it but I backed the trailer in and loaded the boat myself, she only drove the truck/trailer out once loaded. Those angles are important when using any ramp, but more so with the auto lock style bow locks. I hope you can get the damage fixed cheaply and find an alternative way to use the setup. Good to meet you guys once again! Good news, gelcoat can be repaired!

 

[Greg M]

Im looking forward to meeting up with everyone again! was a good group of people!

Im not TOO upset with the damage and take the blame. Full disclosure, I had suspicions there might be an issue due to how the boat was sitting on the clamp out of the water.... about 2 inches of the clamp was on the flat part of the bow stop and the rise of the bow was on the rest of the clamp. But had heard great things, talked to a few that had them (different boats obviously) and they loved them. Plus, I hate messing my baby up as much as anyone, but if you own a boat, and it does more than sit in the driveway, its going to get a ding or three. It's a Break Out Another Thousand hobby for a reason! lol

The good news, its cosmetic, some time elbow grease, will never know it happened!

 

[txav8r]

Greg, I load and unload unassisted all the time, with no issues, except like this weekend with a shallow ramp, I had to launch/retrieve deeper. The years of practice helps of course, but it is impossible to get the bow eye bolt up under and completely against the bow roller, without keeping the power up until the winch is hooked and cranked solid. No retainer will keep it up enough, and that means you will have to do the 5mph stop and slam the boat against the roller to seat it, if you don't power it up and get it solid the first time. The only other option that I have seen, is to change the winch to a heavier model and crank it up solid, if you don't want to use power to keep it up there until someone (or you) cranks it secure. I know the BOAT theory, but I try to minimize that as much as possible!

 

[flyin_dutchman]

Greg

I am also in OK, and launched/landed really steep the other day. My Ramp N Clamp is marring my bow area getting up onto the clamp. Did you fix your damage?

Dave

 

[adody]

Greg, did you end up getting your gel coat repaired? Did you use the kit from Spectrum? I'm curious because I have the same boat and need to do some repairs to damage from the trailer to the gel coat. Thanks