2014 Scarab 195, fresh off the water w cavitation, 10 mph @ 7000 rpm

[Tommy Lee]

So it was a bit of a rough Memorial Day eve today. Went close to shore but apparently the area we went to is a bit rocky and we didn't know. I heard a loud noise and all of a sudden the boat wouldn't accelerate, and increased throttle caused a loud vibration in the whole boat. I knew it was serious. Slowly drove it to a dock. Checked underneath at the intake if there was weeds or debris, and found nothing. Got in the boat, reverse thrusted, heard something pop out, thought issue was solved. However, it wasn't.

The vibration was gone so I knew the debris/rock/stick was discharged, at least, but the boat wouldn't travel faster than 10 mph no matter how far I pushed the throttle. I did some reading and confirmed my thought that the impeller was probably damaged by something hard, like a rock.

So my questions are:
1. Do I need an impeller remover tool? If so, where can I get it? Part # ?
2. I've seen the Rotax JetSki video of the dude on YouTube fixing an impeller blade, straightening it out, filing the edges and returning it to the craft. Is that advisable, or should I get a new impeller?
3. Do I need to get more parts in addition to the impeller? The ring maybe? I know I should inspect the area first but I'm sure if I need an impeller removal tool to remove the impeller that I should get that asap.

Any help is appreciated. Two years ago I removed the whole jet assembly because a tow rope got caught up on the impeller shaft and melted the impeller boot. I had to remove the melted rubber/plastic and tow rope from the impeller shaft and splines. Re-greased the splines, put the impeller boot back on and all has been fine until I sucked something up today. The help I received from this site was awesome. Yesterday I brought the boat out of hibernation, did oil and filter change. Today was second day out. Again any help would be great!

 

[Nexus]

So I had a problem similar to this on my seadoo 200 speedster. One engine would just cavitate so I couldn't get much faster than 15mph (on my speedster, if only one engine was running it couldn't suck enough water and would cavitate). Any way, i pulled it out of the water and found some rocks lodged in the nozle. I removed the rocks and thought, "problem solved." Nope, same issue. So i took it to the shop and they found that the ring (gasket? I can't remember exactly), was ruined. They replaced it and I was good to go.

I would start with that. I'm thinking (and I'm far from an expert) that to only get 10 mph, the impeller would have to be extremely damaged but not having a proper flow could severely cripple the pump.

Well, that's my 2c. Take it with an extremely small grain of salt.

 

[Tommy Lee]

So I had a problem similar to this on my seadoo 200 speedster. One engine would just cavitate so I couldn't get much faster than 15mph (on my speedster, if only one engine was running it couldn't suck enough water and would cavitate). Any way, i pulled it out of the water and found some rocks lodged in the nozle. I removed the rocks and thought, "problem solved." Nope, same issue. So i took it to the shop and they found that the ring (gasket? I can't remember exactly), was ruined. They replaced it and I was good to go.

I would start with that. I'm thinking (and I'm far from an expert) that to only get 10 mph, the impeller would have to be extremely damaged but not having a proper flow could severely cripple the pump.

Well, that's my 2c. Take it with an extremely small grain of salt.

I'm literally under my boat sending this message lol. Just took these two pics. The impeller looks like it just saw a picture of a naked Nancy Pelosi. It is destroyed. I don't think this can be filed down. I'm going to have to order a new one, and as long as I'm in there I'm going to replace the "wear ring" which is the part you're probably talking about.

I've been referencing the following thread, where Scarab Mike has offered some great information:

https://jetboaters.net/threads/scarab-195-on-the-sideline-again-cavitation-from-debris-ingestion.13706/

... however, his links for the parts are now stale in that thread. @ScarabMike can you send me the links I need for the impeller, wear ring, impeller tool, bearing grease, thread locker, etc that I need? Do I need the 159 mm impeller and wear ring? My boat is a 2014 Scarab 195. I am also wondering about aftermarket impellers that I'm seeing claim to increase top speed by 1-2 mph. That would be awesome. Which are the best? I am considering this SOLAS brand but I am wondering if it's a risky brand due to some ppl having some bad experiences w them, even one exploding but after some modifications. Thoughts? Tips anyone?

 

[madscientist]

send the imp to impros. they can repair and repitch it

i just repitched mine today, ill let you know how it turns out.

 

[Tommy Lee]

send the imp to impros. they can repair and repitch it

i just repitched mine today, ill let you know how it turns out.

Huge groves in the wear ring. Needs replacement. I need the kit w impeller, wear ring, bearing t grease, seal, impeller remover tool, everything. Anyone have item links? What's my original impeller part [HASH=124]#?[/HASH] Is SOLAS a good brand?

 

[madscientist]

Stainless wear ring is available from Amazon or eBay for 65$ skip the grease and switch to synthetic 90w oil. If you have the 159mm imp then get the 14/19 solas.. ifnitnis the 161mm i am working on that now with mine

 

[madscientist]

The dealer replaced my OEM wear ring and it failed again after only 10hrs. I have now assumed responsibility for my pump and imp issues

 

[Tommy Lee]

Stainless wear ring is available from Amazon or eBay for 65$ skip the grease and switch to synthetic 90w oil. If you have the 159mm imp then get the 14/19 solas.. ifnitnis the 161mm i am working on that now with mine

Can you tell me what you know about the SOLAS brand impeller? Will that one add acceleration and mph? I have the 200 hp, 4-Tec, 3 cylinder 1.5L Rotax engine. From what I'm seeing I need the 159mm wear ring and impeller. I also need to know if I should get a new impeller boot. There was water in the splines area with a lot of the grease gone, but the boot looks fine. So not sure how water got in there.

What gear grease should I get? Why are you saying synthetic 90w oil? If there's any sort of leak in the impeller boot won't the oil easily pour out since it is less viscous than grease, making grease a better option? What thread locker for the jet housing, the jet cone bolts? Which impeller tool out there do I need?

Sorry for all the questions but these are the questions I need answered. Gotta learn all this at some point right? Hope y'all can help me.

 

[madscientist]

The solas imp is one of the most popular and trusted brands. They had a batch that few issues but was very abnormal. Most of the racers and seadoo ski gurus will tell you to run 90w synthetic in the pump since it constantly baths the bearings rather than the grease that has to be heated up before it flows in to them. If you have a seal leak you will also know faster than the grease because it would drip. I have the 195 g open and the same driveline but mine came with the 162mm imp and wear ring. The pumps are the same just a difference in imp and ring. I am playing with impeller pitch now to overcome some weight/load related cavitation issues when the motor is in high boost

 

[Tommy Lee]

Check out the damage. IPhone charger end sitting in the groove carved out of the wear ring by whatever the debris was, to give you a reference. I would say it's at least 3-4 mm deep.

 

[Tommy Lee]

The solas imp is one of the most popular and trusted brands. They had a batch that few issues but was very abnormal. Most of the racers and seadoo ski gurus will tell you to run 90w synthetic in the pump since it constantly baths the bearings rather than the grease that has to be heated up before it flows in to them. If you have a seal leak you will also know faster than the grease because it would drip. I have the 195 g open and the same driveline but mine came with the 162mm imp and wear ring. The pumps are the same just a difference in imp and ring. I am playing with impeller pitch now to overcome some weight/load related cavitation issues when the motor is in high boost

Oh I see what you're talking about. You're talking about under the cone on the other side of the impeller. I was thinking about the gear splines where I took the pics. That's where I plan to pack grease (inside the impeller boot) and is the area I was referring to. Check out the pictures above.

 

[ScarabMike]

Im looking at your pictures, and yea, you need a new prop and wear ring.

I would stay away from Solas for many reasons, but the biggest is they are garbage. If you get some from the wrong batch, it can destroy your drive components. Stay OEM.
You need a seadoo impeller tool from Solas. Part number VR001.

As far as the wear ring, to take off and install the new one is simple. Put the assembly in the freezer for 10 min it will shrink your old one, and it will slide out. Then put the newring in the freezer, and install just like the old one.

Now, here is one thing that you need to do before you reinstall everything back. Look at the shaft, make sure it is sitting center, and that nothing shifted. It will be visible, and you will know what Im talking about. If any part of the engine or shaft gets out of alignment, ir hits the sleave protector, take it to your dealer. You dont want any wear ring issues.

 

[ScarabMike]

Oh, and get some marine grease on the splines of the shaft. Looks like you have some rust forming in there.

 

[Tommy Lee]

Oh, and get some marine grease on the splines of the shaft. Looks like you have some rust forming in there.

Yes I saw that rust in there. I'm surprised to see that. Is that indicative of an ineffective impeller boot? Should I get a new boot? What impeller would you recommend if not SOLAS? I would like to get one that would increase speed that is not risky. Any recommendations for the wear ring or do you know of a wear ring and impeller kit that has everything including the impeller removal tool?

 

[ScarabMike]

Yes I saw that rust in there. I'm surprised to see that. Is that indicative of an ineffective impeller boot? Should I get a new boot? What impeller would you recommend if not SOLAS? I would like to get one that would increase speed that is not risky. Any recommendations for the wear ring or do you know of a wear ring and impeller kit that has everything including the impeller removal tool?

159mm Plastic Wear Ring Sea-Doo - Measure the circumfrence and make sure you have this one, or the 161. Stay with plastic and not stainless. These things are made to take a beating, and keep the impeller spinning in an event of a clog. The stainless has no give, and you can destroy your pump if it fails.

As far as impeller... There should be some numbers on it. That's your pitch. Stay with the oem one. Unless you know how to figure out pitch and RPM, you could get screwed. Boats are different than skis, and there is a ton of weight to push around. If you pitch too high, you will cavitate, gain to much rpm, and loose speed. If too low, you will hook up better, but won't reach the engine's max rpm. This can cause overheating, and loss of speed. Go to Greehulk . com, and buy an oem impeller.

 

[Tommy Lee]

159mm Plastic Wear Ring Sea-Doo - Measure the circumfrence and make sure you have this one, or the 161. Stay with plastic and not stainless. These things are made to take a beating, and keep the impeller spinning in an event of a clog. The stainless has no give, and you can destroy your pump if it fails.

As far as impeller... There should be some numbers on it. That's your pitch. Stay with the oem one. Unless you know how to figure out pitch and RPM, you could get screwed. Boats are different than skis, and there is a ton of weight to push around. If you pitch too high, you will cavitate, gain to much rpm, and loose speed. If too low, you will hook up better, but won't reach the engine's max rpm. This can cause overheating, and loss of speed. Go to Greehulk . com, and buy an oem impeller.

Here is a pic of the shaft. Doesn't look bent or anything. I am a little upset about the rust being there. Do you thinki needs a new impeller boot?

 

[madscientist]

Mike, my impeller is still oem right now but I am running the stainless ring. A fresh oem plastic lasted less than 14hrs before it was damaged..

I am having cavitation issues with a full boat and it won't plane out. It is theb195g with the 161mm imp and ring (came this way from the factory) I checked the pitch and it was 14/17. I added 2mm to the trailing edges to make it 14/19. I will run the new set up in the next couple days and report back.

 

[madscientist]

A pick of the fail

 

[madscientist]

I also have a new carbon seal , hat,, and boot.

 

[Tommy Lee]

159mm Plastic Wear Ring Sea-Doo - Measure the circumfrence and make sure you have this one, or the 161. Stay with plastic and not stainless. These things are made to take a beating, and keep the impeller spinning in an event of a clog. The stainless has no give, and you can destroy your pump if it fails.

As far as impeller... There should be some numbers on it. That's your pitch. Stay with the oem one. Unless you know how to figure out pitch and RPM, you could get screwed. Boats are different than skis, and there is a ton of weight to push around. If you pitch too high, you will cavitate, gain to much rpm, and loose speed. If too low, you will hook up better, but won't reach the engine's max rpm. This can cause overheating, and loss of speed. Go to Greehulk . com, and buy an oem impeller.

It looks like I'm going to need to get the impeller remover tool before I order the impeller, correct? Is there any way for me to identify the part # maybe online without taking out the impeller? I went to Greenhulk but can't find the oem impeller. Need some help. Was hoping to order a whole kitv with everything including the impeller, bearing and spline grease, boot, impeller remover tool, thread locker. Here are the stats on my engine and boat.

2014 Scarab 195
Engine info: naturally aspirated, 1.5L 3-cylinder Rotax 1503 SC 4-TEC engine that produces 200 hp