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Infinite baffle. Looking forward to your photos. Looking at a JL M700 and the JL MX10 sub. Will swap factory polks if necessary if amplification doesn't help enough.
I just played with the backside of that Clarion head unit, wiring in a Kicker Hideaway (port side). If you run your amp off the non-fading pre-amp outs (purple and purple/white) you will have some ability to control the signal level from the head unit (sub level). You may still want your separate switch, though.
Also, in my 212x, the blue/white remote power wire from the Clarion was bundled in with all the line level amped connections - as if it were connected to something. After scratching my head for an hour, I went ahead and clipped it and wired it to my amplified sub. It didn't cut power to anything. Hope this helps.
If he finds that 'remote' wire is actually powering something, let me know!
Also, your guy will want to remove the bow back cushion, starboard side to access the back of the dash/head unit. You have to reach up behind from the storage area below and find three wing nuts to remove the cushion back, then carefully lift/wiggle it off. There's an open access hole behind it.
When your done with the install get ahold of me, I have some great setting on your HU for those subs to ROCK even more then when you get it back from the installer, unless he already knows lol
He showed me a setting in the HU to adjust but would love to know if there's something else I could do. He mentioned something about the sub needing to "break in" and then I could really turn up the setting if I wanted. Does that sound right? Finally got the JL tower speakers in this week and getting them installed next week.