2015 242 LS - intermittent no crank

[FLJetBoater]

Hi guys, just picked up a 2015 242 LS.

Intermittently, you'll turn the key and nothing will happen. No click at relay, starter doesn't crank. It's happening on both sides. Turning the key halfway does provide power and start up the electronics.

Seller had the boat in for service the last couple days, well I guess they didn't put one of the plugs back in properly. On the test drive as soon as we throttled up it blew and killed an engine. The hatch did not open but I guess was pushed up enough to trigger the kill switch. The clean out tray area was full of water so we pulled both plugs to let it drain. Took us 15 minutes to get them back in (I'll be rebuilding them ASAP) but once we did the boat ran great, engines didn't cut out even on a few larger waves so seems that the cutoff switches are operating OK.

Did a few stop/starts out in the water. A couple of times (but not every time) I had to turn the key 3-4 times before it would engage the starter. There were never any clicks at the relay. We had the engine hatch open each time we restarted to listen. I've had a relay problem before in my old boat so I know what that sounds like. I can't swap the key switches to test since it was happening on both sides.

Throttles were in neutral. One is very loose and one is very stiff, but I always made sure to have them right in the neutral groove before trying to start up.

Is there a way to test the key switches without replacing them?
Could the water in the clean out area swamp the cutoff switches? I'd imagine they are waterproof but could that much water cause them to go wonky?
If the starter was bad, would you still hear the click at the relay or is that only a "relay is bad" symptom? Both my starters on my 2014 needed to be replaced this year so I could see these ones starting to hit that timeframe of replacement as well but not sure that's it. They both crank really fast and start really quick when they do engage.
Both batteries were at 14V

I've read through some other threads but nothing is quite the same. I'm going to try starting while moving the throttles slightly and see if that's the cause. My plan for tomorrow is to figure this out so any other suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks!

 

[Babin Farms]

I would start at the batteries seeing that both engines are doing the same thing. Make sure that the connections are clean and tight, it sounds like a connection issue. After that I would go to the cleanout hatch switches. If you get to the next step I would try a different kill tether if possible.

 

[FLJetBoater]

I would start at the batteries seeing that both engines are doing the same thing. Make sure that the connections are clean and tight, it sounds like a connection issue. After that I would go to the cleanout hatch switches. If you get to the next step I would try a different kill tether if possible.

Thanks will check that. Kill tether shouldn’t be the issue as that would allow the engines to crank but just cut fuel/spark.

the hatch switches - how can you check that they’re working properly? I know they work to cut off the engine and the boat did start after 2-3 turns of the key without touching those hatch switches.

 

[Babin Farms]

the hatch switches - how can you check that they’re working properly? I know they work to cut off the engine and the boat did start after 2-3 turns of the key without touching those hatch switches.

Maybe put a piece of cardboard over them to have the hatch push them farther??

https://jetboaters.net/threads/engine-cranks-but-doesn%E2%80%99t-turn-over.30257/#post-491696

 

[FLJetBoater]

Maybe put a piece of cardboard over them to have the hatch push them farther??

https://jetboaters.net/threads/engine-cranks-but-doesn%E2%80%99t-turn-over.30257/#post-491696

But the engines do start after turning the key a couple times. If the hatch switches weren’t pushed down far enough it shouldn’t matter how many times I turn the key...maybe they are like right on the edge and I could try that, but not optimistic that would be the cause. Also I would expect random engine cutouts if they were that sensitive.

 

[David Martin]

Check the ground wires on the ignition switches would be in order. New to twins myself not sure if Yamaha uses a single ground on both switches but it does make since if both switches go down at the same time. Battery ground as well.

 

[Billtex2000]

I'm wrestling with the same problem, but only with the starboard engine. I turn the key to a few times with no crank, then it starts. The solenoid DOES click! I checked the wires to the starter and they're good. I'm stumped.

 

[FLJetBoater]

I'm wrestling with the same problem, but only with the starboard engine. I turn the key to a few times with no crank, then it starts. The solenoid DOES click! I checked the wires to the starter and they're good. I'm stumped.

When I had the issue it was a starter going bad....I guess the internals get mis-aligned and it won't always spin properly. Eventually it will stop working completely.

 

[Scottintexas]

I'm wrestling with the same problem, but only with the starboard engine. I turn the key to a few times with no crank, then it starts. The solenoid DOES click! I checked the wires to the starter and they're good. I'm stumped.

I had an intermittent problem one summer with one engine, turned out both my positive cables were on the same post but one wasn't tightened down enough so it did have good contact,
another time the inside of the battery terminal connector had the thinnest film of corrosion that would sometimes not cause it to start,

do you hear a click or is it just "dead" ?

it's hard to test a intermittent problem but I'd get a voltmeter and see if you're getting any reading at the starter or the relay

 

[Billtex2000]

The solenoid does click, but the starter does not spin.

 

[Billtex2000]

FLJetBoater - did you ever resolve your problem?

 

[FLJetBoater]

FLJetBoater - did you ever resolve your problem?

Yeah I posted above. It was a bad starter.

 

[Beachbummer]

In my case it was a bad solenoid. Got worse over a month or two.

 

[Billtex2000]

I'm starting with the solenoid...maybe its sticking or going bad ?

 

[FLJetBoater]

I'm starting with the solenoid...maybe its sticking or going bad ?

Is the solenoid in the 2015 on the backside of the panel? Or was that the year they moved it to the front? I know 2014 was on the back, but my 2020 is on the front.
im just curious, I changed the one on my 2014 and it was an absolute nightmare. You NEED 2 people and make sure you have some anti-fiberglass sleeves for the person holding the wrench in the helm.

if it’s on the front, sooooooo easy to swap. 10 min job vs 2 hour job.

 

[Billtex2000]

On my 2006 SX210 they are at the front of the engine compartment toward the bow.

 

[FLJetBoater]

On my 2006 SX210 they are at the front of the engine compartment toward the bow.

Yeah, the BOX that holds them is on the front side of the back wall of the engine compartment But the actual solenoid (at least up to 2014) was on the BACK of that box. And it's a nut/bolt holding the box on so you need someone in the bilge to hold the nut while you loosen the bolt from the engine compartment.

Brings back good memories lol

 

[Billtex2000]

So...it was the starter solenoid ?
Changed it out...good as new. ?