2015 LTDS JL Audio Upgrade + Fishfinder Install

[Nick Hughes]

Aftet going back and forth on keeping the Polks and adding amps, I decided to just replace it all.

My order included:
8 JL Audio MX650
1 JL Audio 10" IB sub
1 JL Audio M800/v2
1 JL Audio M200
1 AudioPipe combined distribution block
All wiring is KnuKonceptz
25' 4ga power and ground
150' 14ga speaker wire
25' 12ga speaker wire
20' remote ground
2 RCA cables
Connectors

I've got all the wires run, all new for all 8 speakers, added 2 to the cabin. Sub hole cut on port side next to table mount.

This morning I'm hooking up the amps and start testing. With 2 amps, how should I run the pre amps RCAs? Just use the front pre out from the HU, to the M200 and then that to M800? And then use the Connext fader all to the front? Or should I get a 2-1 RCA adapter for the front and rear pre-outs?

I will post all the pics in a bit.

 

[Nick Hughes]

Also. How do you open the house switch to attach the positive?

 

[Nick Hughes]

Amp board. 3/4" birch covered in flex seal.

 

[Drift Away]

Looks like your running all most the same set up i am. But i got 2 6 chammel amps and 2 10's. Did you free air mount your sub or put it in a box under the seat?

 

[Nick Hughes]

Free air for now. All that's left is this positive power. Can't figure out how to get this switch cover off.

 

[swatski]

Free air for now. All that's left is this positive power. Can't figure out how to get this switch cover off.

There are long bolts going thru the plywood bulkhead. Need to pull it up then but those little dovels hold the 4 little blocks together pretty tight. Putting it back together is even more ridiculous.

EDIT: An alternative is to go strait to the house battery with a heavy duty breaker (bussman or one of those).

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[swatski]

Aftet going back and forth on keeping the Polks and adding amps, I decided to just replace it all.

My order included:
8 JL Audio MX650
1 JL Audio 10" IB sub
1 JL Audio M800/v2
1 JL Audio M200
1 AudioPipe combined distribution block
All wiring is KnuKonceptz
25' 4ga power and ground
150' 14ga speaker wire
25' 12ga speaker wire
20' remote ground
2 RCA cables
Connectors

I've got all the wires run, all new for all 8 speakers, added 2 to the cabin. Sub hole cut on port side next to table mount.

This morning I'm hooking up the amps and start testing. With 2 amps, how should I run the pre amps RCAs? Just use the front pre out from the HU, to the M200 and then that to M800? And then use the Connext fader all to the front? Or should I get a 2-1 RCA adapter for the front and rear pre-outs?

I will post all the pics in a bit.

Splitting the RCAs will work, but I believe it will half the signal, and your noise may go up a tad. I did it and it is fine, I have a different system but also with two 4-channel amps (8 channels total - connected those amps to HU by splitting the HU RCAs), and then I used the HU speaker lines out (both front and back) to connect the HU to the subwoofer amp. Works great for me, but the guys here may have some better ideas.

Looks like you have got yourself an AWESOME system, congrats!!!

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[Nick Hughes]

Turns out there is only 1 set of RCAs so nothing crazy to do there. Got it all setup, all 8 in boat channels set at 80hz, 2 channel with low pass. That sound right? Is there a good rhym/reason for the input sens without using a minimeter?

All I need to do is figure out this house switch. I need to get the boat out of the driveway, so it will have to wait. Had it hooked directly to the battery. I'd keep it that way but the distro block has LEDs that are always on, doubt it would ever drain the battery, but who knows.

 

[swatski]

Turns out there is only 1 set of RCAs so nothing crazy to do there. Got it all setup, all 8 in boat channels set at 80hz, 2 channel with low pass. That sound right? Is there a good rhym/reason for the input sens without using a minimeter?

All I need to do is figure out this house switch. I need to get the boat out of the driveway, so it will have to wait. Had it hooked directly to the battery. I'd keep it that way but the distro block has LEDs that are always on, doubt it would ever drain the battery, but who knows. View attachment 54586

I would consider one of those:
https://www.amazon.com/Bussmann-CB185-100-Type-Circuit-Breaker/dp/B00139FQSS
Basically, you use those as a switch, very handy and safe and fit anywhere - just screw it to the bulkhead. And no need to go through the battery switch, which I hate. The only drawback is - you have one more button to push.

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[Nick Hughes]

Untuned set to mid gain, damn system sounds damn good. That port bench gives a good back massage now.

 

[Julian]

Nice clean looking install! Pretty sure the switch just has posts on the back...you don't open it up.

 

[Julian]

Added to the FAQ.

 

[swatski]

Pretty sure the switch just has posts on the back...you don't open it up.

Damn, I must have been doing it wrong all along.... Can you post a pic?

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[Mainah]

I had to remove the whole switch assembly to get to the posts on the back.

 

[Steen1717]

I am in the mist of doing the same thing! They are correct you have to take the entire block off.. threaded bolts in the engine compartment. Once you get it off you will see how its connected. I think you need a 18 or 19mm socket to remove the bolt holding the positive terminals

 

[swatski]

Yep. I think Marinco does make switches that can be wired from the front, but no such luck here!

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[Nick Hughes]

I updated the title because I just came across a good deal on a new Raymarine Dragonfly 4 Pro + navionics. So while I just dropped my boat back in, I think I'll be installing it this weekend or next. I saw @Bennie routed his transducer cable through the scupper hole, and then bolted the transducer to the port jet plate, using wire guides to hold the cable close to the hull away from the keel.

Would this be a good approach or does someone have a better idea? I do have my underwater LEDs mounted under the scupper hole, but there is room for this.

 

[Bennie]

@Nick Hughes - There are a multitude of ways to route the cable. The large connector head was the primary reason I went the way I did. I will tell you that starting my 3rd season with it - she still works wonderfully.

 

[Nick Hughes]

Doesn't look like you block any water from existing the scupper, should that happen. Have to see if the connector will fit thru that scupper. Such a hassle to pull the boat out, thinking i'll inflate the tube, throw all my tools on that and just tie myself off to the boat while its on the lift. Terrible idea?

 

[Bennie]

brother - I trailer every time. I can't help you on that one. Seems like it be easier to take it out though so that you can easily get wherever you need to on the boat to help run the wire.

Something that you'd want to dry run and ensure everything will work like you want to. May be worth the hassle to pull it out.
imho