2017 Rotax 250hp Oil Change

[Liberty195]

New to forum, sold our 96’ Challenger 800 with single 787 and just picked up a 2017 Scarab 195 HO with a single 250hp Rotax.

I’ve read threads but saw conflicting responses. Is T6 full synthetic 5w40 the right oil for this engine? Filter is 420956744?

There is a bulletin out there about the 1503 saying to use semi synthetic and not full synthetic but I’d read here that folks are using T6. Thanks

 

[Luc Lafreniere]

The official correct oil is either the XPS semi-synthetic blend oil OR now their new fully synthetic XPS. The key for the full synthetic is that the oil has to be JASO-MA2 certified. From a quick google search, the T6 you're mentioning is not unless my google Fu is failing me.

Frankly, is there a reason you can't just buy an XPS oil change kits? It comes with the filter too and the right amount of oil. I don't even know what the filter number is because I've always just bought the kit.

 

[Liberty195]

Thanks!! If T6 was being used by many folks I’d be glad to use it, I use Rotella in my diesels on my big boat, $50 saving is $50. But your right and I’ll plan to use one of the oil change kits which seem to now come with full synthetic…. And the filter and rings which is nice.

That was part of my confusion. Reading to not use full synthetic in these engines, then seeing the kits come with full synthetic. Likely that is because the xps additives are in there full synthetic as you mention. Thanks again!

 

[Luc Lafreniere]

The full synthetic is new for 2024. The semi is being discontinued. Presumably because BRP now has an XPS oil compatible so they can make money off of it. Lol But yeah, I'd stick with that certification personally. I'm all for saving a few dollars... But that box is damn convenient.

 

[Liberty195]

One other question. Can I warm her up in my driveway on the flush hose port, 10 min or so, extract, and then re fill? Or do I need to crank a few times after extracting to get more oil to the bottom? Hate the idea of cranking or starting while the sump is empty! Thx

 

[Luc Lafreniere]

No. Ok if you're new to Rotax, you really should go read the operator manual available online. There are very important instructions in there.

In short, you cannot run the engine out of water for more than 2 min EVEN if you provide cooling. The carbon seal is NOT cooled with the hose. I recommend keeping all out of water run times under 1 min. It's enough to warm up the oil just fine.

Second, do NOT apply water pressure to the exhaust flush port unless the engine is running. The order is important

1. Engine on
2. Water on
3. Water off
4. Engine off.

Manual here:

BRP GUIDES

www.operatorsguides.brp.com

Rotax, JPS, AG (=2017), engine HP

I sincerely recommend reading this before doing your oil change yourself.

 

[Liberty195]

Thank you! I will read the manual per your link first and heed your recommendations. Appreciate it!!

 

[Luc Lafreniere]

Just an FYI, there's also a Scarab section in the forum. Posting there but also searching it may prove very useful.

 

[Liberty195]

Thanks again Luc. Got the XPS kit with fully synthetic oil, filter and gaskets. I’ve read the manual, thank you for that, so I understand not running the hose unless the engine is on. Got it.

Manual does not say how to change the oil so based on our discussion here it seems this simple:

Attach hose
Turn on engine
Turn on water
Run 60 seconds
Turn off watee
Turn off engine
Suck out oil via dipstick tube
Change oil filter and gaskets
Put new oil in engine, likely same amount as removed
Check oil to ensure between high and low mark
Engine on
Water on
Run engine 15-20 sec
Water off
Engine off
Check oil again
Top off oil as needed to be between high and low marks

Anything I missed here! Thanks!

 

[Luc Lafreniere]

That is perfect. I can add some extra tips, but you got everything covered perfectly. Good job!

Tip 1: if you pull the 4 10A fused by the battery corresponding to the 3 cylinders and the fuel pump, this will allow you to easily turn over the engine without giving it fuel or sparking. This will get the last bits of oil out. I typically suck everything I can out first. Then do that cycle for about 5 sec. Suck more out. And do it once more for good measure. But this entire thing is just extra.

Tip 2: I recommend keeping the oil around the mid mark and no more. Too much oil can be a detriment. It can also cause oil to go into your intercooler over time. This is why many buy catch cans. But if you keep the oil on the low side of that dip stick, you won't have this issue. Also make sure your boat is levelled. Oil needs to be warm and let it settle about 30 seconds before checking it.

Tip 3: Suction tube, mark it at 18.75" and don't go any deeper. Otherwise the tube will just curl inside and you won't get any more oil out. It's also possible to get it stuck if you go too deep.

Tip 4: Note before you take the filter off that there is a gap by design under the housing cap. Many get confused when they reinstall the filter and torque it too hard. It's not designed to be flush. Just look at it before taking it off and you'll see what I mean.

 

[Liberty195]

Thanks Luc! Appreciate it! Will use these tips!

 

[Liberty195]

Hey Luc, overall went well! Took just shy of 3 qt to get it to around 2/3 toward the high mark on the dipstick. Stopped there. Maybe 2.8 qt. Saw what you meant on the penny width opening at the top of the filter housing, made sure to not over tighten.

I got a little confused on getting that last little oil out. I got a hold of a shop manual and it said to depress the throttle in full and hold it while starting to let the starter run to get the last little oil out but it wouldn’t engage the starter at all doing that. I ended up accidentally starting it in neutral for a split second with the oil removed and shut it down fast. I still had my hand on the key. Literally turned over, was 1/4 of a second and not even a full Mississippi and I shut it down . Anything to worry about?

Then re read your comment on pulling the 4 fuses, did that and it worked perfect. Did 2 cycles of chugging to get that last little oil out. With fuses out.

After re fill I ran for 45 sec. Checked it and it was at the low mark, then added a little more to get to 2/3 full on the line.

 

[Luc Lafreniere]

Glad you got it done.

Yes, that's the reason I suggested pulling the fuses. The manual is designed for a PWC and our boats don't allow the use of that fully depressed throttle otherwise known as drown mode. You have to access the actual throttle body and depending on the boat, it's easier to pull those fuses and does the same thing.

The engine should take 3.25 quarts in total IF fully emptied. It's not uncommon to have missed by about a quarter quart. This is where multiple cycles of turning the engine over can help.

No, no worries on running the engine for a few seconds even. Not enough time to cause heat.

Congrats on your first Rotax oil change!

 

[Liberty195]

Thanks again Luc, huge help!!