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2019 SCARAB 195G, Single - 4-TEC 200 w/Catalyst, O2 Sensor Replacement Process

fostebrian

Active Member
Messages
5
Reaction score
3
Points
30
Boat Make
Scarab
Year
2019
Boat Model
195 G
Boat Length
18
Engine service light appeared (no visible codes on dashboard). I took the boat to my local dealer for a diagnostic. The downstream O2 Sensor is the issue. Recommendation is to "rebuild the entire Catalyst system for $3,300 ish, or do a temporary fix of replacing the two O2 sensors for $1200. Boat has 61 total hours at the time of the code. It had the usual 50 hour service about 2 months ago. I decided I would fix it myself (two sensors with seals were about $200 from the dealer). I would simply replace the the sensors but the dealer was kind enough to take a photo of the two sensors. The downstream sensor looked very nasty, almost corroded. I figure some moisture must be getting in that area. So, since the sensors come with the seals that go on either side of the catalyst body, I thought I would just pull it off and put the new seals in....However! I am confused about the way water cools and is this ocean water or sealed/closed-loop water? The service manual requires the water supply tube be removed from the catalyst at some point in the disassembly. I did not want to dump actual coolant and end up with air in the line if this is a closed system. Unfortunately, I am unable to determine what is what concerning the type of water being supplied. I am not a SCARAB mechanic but I have replaced the entire catalytic converter and O2 sensors on a RAV4, lol. So, I do not fear the engine but I would like some advice to remedy what I perceive is the need to seal up that catalyst a bit better after installing the new sensors. I am not made of money to carelessly toss money at repairs. I take care of my things and $200 sure is better than the alternative. But, I would appreciate any advice if anyone has noticed the O2 Sensor Bulletin for 2018 or has had a similar issue and replaced the O2 sensors and seals that the part comes with. Thank you.
 

Attachments

You may want to try just changing the downstream oxygen sensor. Please see the link below to a thread with additional information on oxygen sensors.

 
Engine service light appeared (no visible codes on dashboard). I took the boat to my local dealer for a diagnostic. The downstream O2 Sensor is the issue. Recommendation is to "rebuild the entire Catalyst system for $3,300 ish, or do a temporary fix of replacing the two O2 sensors for $1200. Boat has 61 total hours at the time of the code. It had the usual 50 hour service about 2 months ago. I decided I would fix it myself (two sensors with seals were about $200 from the dealer). I would simply replace the the sensors but the dealer was kind enough to take a photo of the two sensors. The downstream sensor looked very nasty, almost corroded. I figure some moisture must be getting in that area. So, since the sensors come with the seals that go on either side of the catalyst body, I thought I would just pull it off and put the new seals in....However! I am confused about the way water cools and is this ocean water or sealed/closed-loop water? The service manual requires the water supply tube be removed from the catalyst at some point in the disassembly. I did not want to dump actual coolant and end up with air in the line if this is a closed system. Unfortunately, I am unable to determine what is what concerning the type of water being supplied. I am not a SCARAB mechanic but I have replaced the entire catalytic converter and O2 sensors on a RAV4, lol. So, I do not fear the engine but I would like some advice to remedy what I perceive is the need to seal up that catalyst a bit better after installing the new sensors. I am not made of money to carelessly toss money at repairs. I take care of my things and $200 sure is better than the alternative. But, I would appreciate any advice if anyone has noticed the O2 Sensor Bulletin for 2018 or has had a similar issue and replaced the O2 sensors and seals that the part comes with. Thank you.
Having the same problem on my 2014 200 hp Scarab 195. 15 hours after replacing the O2 sensor, I’m getting the P1030 error code again. I’m going to pull the CC this weekend and hopefully see where the leak is according to the bulletin. There’s a good Rotex video about the cooling system on YouTube, but it doesn’t show the CC.
 
I completed the work of removing the catalyst and replacing the 2 O-rings and the two oxygen sensors. Since I spent about 6-hours (no exaggeration) searching for a dropped bolt, allow me to enlighten anyone else who hates paying thousands of dollars for $200 worth of parts. There are two bolts that hold the catalyst up at the center point. The two bolts oppose each other because one mounts on the lower left and the other on the upper right. You can't pull the catalyst off without removing those two bolts. I used a long pair of needle nose plyers to support the left-side bolt when removing, so it would not drop. However, you wont be able to use players to support the bolt back through the catalyst mount (the multitude of hoses will prevent you and you will drop it). Prepare to be a monkey. Place the left-side bolt in your right hand/fingers, reach over the top of the catalyst and curve your arm and fingers back around and under the catalyst. You can do it, as impossible as it looks. Your fingers will be able to push that bolt into the hole (while avoiding the hoses) and with a little rocking of the catalyst, it will slide in. Bonus tip. That right side, opposing bolt can be managed easily. So, if you put that on in first with a few turns, the left side bolt hole will already be aligned appropriately. Lastly, my engine light is still on but that is because I don't have the $650 to buy a code reader and erase it. I guess I will beg Scarab when I head back for a different maintenance in the future. I feel like a super hero having saved over 3k in repairs. FYI, this is an actual ongoing issue with these catalyst. However, the warranty/recall only applies to the original owner and it was only in affect in 2018. If it were not for the safety bulletin, I would not have known why the O2 sensors crapped out at 60 hours of use. At least I came across that and the procedure to fix it.
 
I completed the work of removing the catalyst and replacing the 2 O-rings and the two oxygen sensors. Since I spent about 6-hours (no exaggeration) searching for a dropped bolt, allow me to enlighten anyone else who hates paying thousands of dollars for $200 worth of parts. There are two bolts that hold the catalyst up at the center point. The two bolts oppose each other because one mounts on the lower left and the other on the upper right. You can't pull the catalyst off without removing those two bolts. I used a long pair of needle nose plyers to support the left-side bolt when removing, so it would not drop. However, you wont be able to use players to support the bolt back through the catalyst mount (the multitude of hoses will prevent you and you will drop it). Prepare to be a monkey. Place the left-side bolt in your right hand/fingers, reach over the top of the catalyst and curve your arm and fingers back around and under the catalyst. You can do it, as impossible as it looks. Your fingers will be able to push that bolt into the hole (while avoiding the hoses) and with a little rocking of the catalyst, it will slide in. Bonus tip. That right side, opposing bolt can be managed easily. So, if you put that on in first with a few turns, the left side bolt hole will already be aligned appropriately. Lastly, my engine light is still on but that is because I don't have the $650 to buy a code reader and erase it. I guess I will beg Scarab when I head back for a different maintenance in the future. I feel like a super hero having saved over 3k in repairs. FYI, this is an actual ongoing issue with these catalyst. However, the warranty/recall only applies to the original owner and it was only in affect in 2018. If it were not for the safety bulletin, I would not have known why the O2 sensors crapped out at 60 hours of use. At least I came across that and the procedure to fix it.
That is very much appreciated!! I am a pro at dropping bolts in the bilge. My check engine light has been on since the O2 sensor was replaced in May with no codes displayed till now. Still runs great like it did all summer.
 
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