210 fsh 30mph max speed @7000 rpm MY 2022

[ShireRider]

Hi all,

2022 210 fsh I’ve owned it since new. Got the 10 hour service, just put new plugs in at 60ish hours.

I have lost nearly 10mph off my top speed. I have seen 40+ mph, but now “hammer down” puts me at around 30-32mph (GPS on the fish finder). I noticed this spring that I had lost a little top end, but now it’s gotten really bad.

I keep my boat in a freshwater slip. Last weekend I scrubbed the bottom of the hull & checked my zinc anodes, I also put in a set of NGK plugs. I can’t remember the spec, I think .028 was what they measured. The old plugs looked fine to me. I can’t see evidence of oil on the air filter.. I also ditched the 3x 12 lead batteries for 1x 36v lithium.

Nothing has brought my top speed back up.

Is 7k top RPM for the twin 1000cc in the FSH? I feel like hammer down vs 6000- 6500rpm makes a huge difference in the noise but only drops to 27mph versus hardly being able to hit 30-32.

Lake Erie.
569’ above sea level.
Very calm day.
Temperature mid 70’s.

Minimal equipment.

3/4 tank of fuel.

I’m planning on pulling the boat in the next week or two to do a bit of maintenance/cleaning. Not sure if I need to look closer at anything.

Thank you!

 

[ShireRider]

 

[FSH 210 Sport]

Rated rpm for the TR-1’s is 8000 rpm.

Pull your air filters and try running it. Make sure there is no loose debris that can get ingested by the engines.

At that altitude and temperature your engines should be turning at least 7500 -7800 rpm’s or maybe a bit more, regardless of how clean the hull is.

Also, check the oil level in your engines to make sure they are not over filled.

 

[YoDaddy292]

My TR-1s tend to run best at 1/3 of the way from low to full on the dipstick. They are crazy sensitive to oil levels and full or overfull seems to keep them from revving all the way.

 

[ShireRider]

Hey all, I got back to the marina today. Tried to check the oil while the engines were cold & I couldn’t understand why it wasn’t on the dipstick. The air filters looked fine.

Side story, I adjusted my throttle cables & the tension on the levers & pulled out of my slip only for the starboard engine to make a horrible noise. I limped out to an open area on just the port engine, set my spot lock to anchor & checked the clean out port. I had sucked up someone’s garbage nylon tube rope. Fortunately it was only a few feet & I was able to get it out through the cleanout port!

Anyways, got her out on the water and was still 7000-7200rpm max at 33mph on my GPS.

Checked the oil again & could clearly see that it’s all the way up to the F mark on the dipstick if not above on both engines.

I pulled their filters to see if it made a difference & it did not.

Got back to my slip after 20+ minutes in a no-wake zone and confirmed the oil is just over the F mark on the dipstick.

What’s the ideal “top engine” oil drain vacuum for using on the dock? I’m gonna look up the oil capacity & remove probably a 1/2 pint to begin with and see what that does for me.

One other question: do we screw the oil cap back in to measure or just set it onto the threads?

 

[FSH 210 Sport]

Hey all, I got back to the marina today. Tried to check the oil while the engines were cold & I couldn’t understand why it wasn’t on the dipstick. The air filters looked fine.

Side story, I adjusted my throttle cables & the tension on the levers & pulled out of my slip only for the starboard engine to make a horrible noise. I limped out to an open area on just the port engine, set my spot lock to anchor & checked the clean out port. I had sucked up someone’s garbage nylon tube rope. Fortunately it was only a few feet & I was able to get it out through the cleanout port!

Anyways, got her out on the water and was still 7000-7200rpm max at 33mph on my GPS.

Checked the oil again & could clearly see that it’s all the way up to the F mark on the dipstick if not above on both engines.

I pulled their filters to see if it made a difference & it did not.

Got back to my slip after 20+ minutes in a no-wake zone and confirmed the oil is just over the F mark on the dipstick.

What’s the ideal “top engine” oil drain vacuum for using on the dock? I’m gonna look up the oil capacity & remove probably a 1/2 pint to begin with and see what that does for me.

One other question: do we screw the oil cap back in to measure or just set it onto the threads?

Per the manual;
-Before checking the oil you are supposed to warm the engines for six minutes, if the ambient temp is at or below 68°F run the engines for an additional five minutes.
-Remove the dipstick and wipe it clean
-Install the dipstick and screw it in until it stops
-Remove the dipstick and check the oil level
-The oil should be between the marks

In my experience I have noticed no difference in rpm between a full oil level on the dipstick and 1/4 full on the dipstick, I tested this on the water one day and incrementally removed oil from each engine from full down to 1/4 full. Others have reported 500 rpm gains by running the oil level lower on the dipstick, but I have to wonder if those folks had screwed the dipstick back in when checking the oil, not screwing the dipstick in would result in excessively high oil levels. So if your pictured oil level without screwing the dipstick back in fully you have excessively high oil levels and that needs to be corrected. If you did screw the dipstick in, then the level isn’t excessively high but still needs to be corrected. So I’d try setting the oil level at 1/2 and see if there is a difference.

Currently I run my oil level at the 3/4 mark.

As far as dock side / on the water oil removal I use a 60 cc irrigation syringe with a plastic tube, you can get them off of Amazon. I think I removed oil in 200 cc increments then re checked the oil level.

The reason the oil was not on the dipstick when you checked it is because some of the oil had drained out of the tank and was sitting in the engine pan. These engines are dry sump engines which means the oil resides in the oil tank on the back of the engine. There is a scavenging oil pump that removes the oil from the pan and puts into the oil tank where the main engine oil pump takes that oil and pressurizes the oil system.

In regards to your problem, don’t worry about the speed, just concern yourself with getting the rpm’s up to where they are supposed to be, speed is highly dependent on total weight in the boat, wind etc. I was just at Lake Michigan, the morning was cool, 55° or so, and I was getting close to 8000 rpm on my engines, couldn’t run it at that speed for very long because the water was too choppy to go fast.

Did you see any change in rpm’s at WOT with the air filters removed?
Did you put the oem NGK plugs in when you replaced them? You’re sure you gapped all of the plugs at .028”?
What oil are you using?
What octane fuel are you running?
How many hours on the engines?

After re reading your posts, I can’t determine when the rpm / speed dropped off. Was it immediately after the 10 hour service? Immediately after you changed the spark plugs at 60 hours? Please clarify.

 

[ShireRider]

Did you see any change in rpm’s at WOT with the air filters removed?
Did you put the oem NGK plugs in when you replaced them? You’re sure you gapped all of the plugs at .028”?
What oil are you using?
What octane fuel are you running?
How many hours on the engines?

After re reading your posts, I can’t determine when the rpm / speed dropped off. Was it immediately after the 10 hour service? Immediately after you changed the spark plugs at 60 hours? Please clarify.

I did not notice an increase in RPM at WOT with the air filters removed. The port engine runs slightly higher RPM and has always done so. Even with adjusting the throttle cables the top RPM has remained the same (picture at the bottom for clarity).

I did get NGK plugs and checked the gap. They were consistent & I did not see any change in performance when I had swapped them out.

I am running whatever oil the dealership used at the 10 hour oil change interval.

I have around 64 hours on the engines at this point.

I am using gas from the local marina. I couldn’t tell you if it’s 89 or 91 (but at 5.50/gallon you would think it’s cam2 lol).

When did the problem start? I want to say this year. I got the boat back from the dealer this spring after getting some glass work repaired under warranty. If I had to guess I had 35-40-ish hours on the engines at that point.

Side note is I was feeling around on my impellers yesterday when I had to pull the rope out of the starboard side. I didn’t feel anything that I found concerning. There is a possibility that I am pulling the boat next week to trailer to put-in-bay. At that point I intend to pressure wash the hull & inspect the impellers more closely.

As far as weight goes, I just changed to a lithium battery for my 36v trolling motor versus 3x group 27 lead batteries. It was just me (230lbs) in the boat with minimal gear. I do fill my livewell to balance the boat when underway, and I had just filled my fuel tank to capacity.

The conditions were a minimal chop which allowed me to “hammer down”.

I feel like I have seen a significant increase in fuel consumption since this issue has begun.

Thank you for the explanation on the dry sump system. I was not familiar with that.

Side note, I did screw the dip stick down when measuring the levels.

I am going to grab a 60cc syringe from TSC with some tube and duplicate your oil removal technique.

Thank you for the information.

 

[Dixemon]

Did you verify your speed with another GPS device? Just an FYI the Speedo wheel on the bottom of the boat can get trash in it, sometimes not turn at all. Its worth looking at. When the boat is on the water the aft swim platform (upper section clean out hatch landing) is just about level front to back. So if you are on a trailer servicing the motors, use that as a reference for leveling the boat prior to filling the motors with oil.

 

[FSH 210 Sport]

The port engine running higher rpms is normal, that has to do with the fact that both engines turn the direction and the way the pumps are loaded.

So, the problem started this year, after you got the boat back after the warranty glass work? Was there any other event of any kind that preceded this performance change?

By the way, what were your observed rpms before this decrease started?

Again, the speed or impellers are not germane to your rpm issues IF you were getting close to 8000 rpms before. If there was an issue with an impeller it would result in higher rpm.

When you say you “feel” that fuel consumption has significantly increased, please specify. What is the gph with both engines turning 6000 rpm? Mine is 8 gph at 6000. If your engine was running rich the plugs would have been a dark tan or black, have any pics of the original plugs and the current plugs ?

Have you by any chance disconnected the batteries ? This is a stab in the dark, but you might try disconnecting the negative cables from the batteries for 30 mins or so then reconnect them. Then start your engines and let them idle, no throttle above idle for 15 minutes to let the ECU’s re learn where they are at.

Did you change the place where you get fuel and then this problem started? You should find out what octane gas you are running, IF you have a choice be sure and run 87 octane.. also, is it ethanol fuel? Non ethanol is desirable. Have you been treating it with Star Tron or another fuel treatment that states that it stabilizes ethanol? Also, it doesn’t seem like you have been moving very much fuel through your boat with that few hours over the period of time you have owned it? Having said that, I suggest you go out and run most of the fuel out of your tank, like down to less than 20%, 10% left would best, then refill with fresh 87 octane fuel and put in enough Techron marine fuel system fuel cleaner for the fuel required to refill it, then go out and run all that fuel through the tank to clean the system, then refill with fresh 87 octane fuel (treat with Star Tron if ethanol laced). Contrary to what some assert Techron does do a lot of good to clean a fuel system especially injectors. That eliminates the possibility of bad fuel.

 

[ShireRider]

fuel consumption… this year I’ve put 20+ gallons in 3+ times, the funny thing is the lowest I’ve let my gage get is 75-79% and it’s still 20+ gallons (I thought these had a 50 gallon tank so I would have expected to be closer to 50-60% assuming it’s a linear correlation with the tank to empty.

I didn’t note where I was on the tach when I first got the boat, just that I could easily hit 42mph on my GPS with 2-3 of my kids plus equipment & a full tank of fuel plus the livewell.

Is star tron the same as Techron? I’ll try either. I have to ask the marina if the fuel is ethanol free & what octane it is.

I will try disconnecting the batteries… but my thought is to ask if the battery isolation panel (I can’t remember what it’s called ? DVSR??) removes power to the ECU? I completely shut off all 3 switches when I’m away from the boat.

I’m going shore fishing in NJ this weekend, so I won’t be back on my boat until next week. I’ll make a 20-25 mile (round trip) run to the deeper part of Erie to see if I can’t connect with some fish next week before pulling her to go to the islands. Then once I’m home I can stop at a gas station in town that I know has 87 ethanol free fuel.

Thanks again for all the suggestions.

 

[FSH 210 Sport]

fuel consumption… this year I’ve put 20+ gallons in 3+ times, the funny thing is the lowest I’ve let my gage get is 75-79% and it’s still 20+ gallons (I thought these had a 50 gallon tank so I would have expected to be closer to 50-60% assuming it’s a linear correlation with the tank to empty.

I didn’t note where I was on the tach when I first got the boat, just that I could easily hit 42mph on my GPS with 2-3 of my kids plus equipment & a full tank of fuel plus the livewell.

Is star tron the same as Techron? I’ll try either. I have to ask the marina if the fuel is ethanol free & what octane it is.

I will try disconnecting the batteries… but my thought is to ask if the battery isolation panel (I can’t remember what it’s called ? DVSR??) removes power to the ECU? I completely shut off all 3 switches when I’m away from the boat.

I’m going shore fishing in NJ this weekend, so I won’t be back on my boat until next week. I’ll make a 20-25 mile (round trip) run to the deeper part of Erie to see if I can’t connect with some fish next week before pulling her to go to the islands. Then once I’m home I can stop at a gas station in town that I know has 87 ethanol free fuel.

Thanks again for all the suggestions.

Okay, so no offense, the fuel consumption is a feel not a solid thing. Use the fuel used meter to know exactly how much fuel you have used, on my boat this is accurate to within a 10th of a gallon.

Okay, so you have just been looking at speed, thats important, but you should be pulling somewhere between 7500 and 8000 rpm on your engines. Speed can be dramatically affected by the cleanliness of the hull, wind, cargo load, fuel load etc… just having a full load of fuel can cut top speed by quite a bit as well as lowering the mpg. We need to get you back to that 42 gps speed with a full load of family, fuel and gear.

No, Star Tron is a fuel stabilizer made especially for ethanol laced fuel. Techron is a fuel system or injector cleaner, be sure and run the clean up dosage and not a maintenance dosage if that is an option on the label.

The BEP marine battery switch should remove power from the ECU’s, but, I just want to make sure that all power is off to the systems on the boat so that the ECU’s will have for sure have to re learn where they are at.. don’t want to leave a stone unturned.

Your plan for going to a gas station is a good one after running the fuel down, to be sure, top off the gas tank and zero your fuel used meter to make sure you do not run out. Once you’ve burned off all but 5-10 gallons or so you will be good. This could or could not be the issue, again, eliminating the simplest things before into the more complicated stuff. I’ve personally witnessed poorly running power sports equipment start running smoothly after treating with Techron. My boat doesn’t run as good on the fuel that was put in before winter storage as it does on fresh fuel, the difference is small but noticeable. Add the Techron to the tank once you pull the boat and are on the way to the gas station, that way it will mix thoroughly before you fill the tank. If Chevron fuel is available fill it with that.

Use this instead of the marine version for this clean up. I’d probably run 6 bottles for this clean up. Then you have the arduous task of going out and running a full tank of gas through your boat, truly brutal LOL!

Amazon.com

 

[ShireRider]

I haven’t gotten back to the boat this week, but the trip to the coast was awesome.

I’m currently at McMaster carr and picked up part number 6710A81 which is a 6” luer lock 12ga needle with a flat tip, and 7510A807 which is a 100ml syringe with Luer lock. Judging by my photo of my dipstick I think I can cut the 6” stainless extension to a metered length once I get the oil level figured out.

 

[mahtin15]

Piggy backing on this thread. My 2018 AR210 is having the exact same problem with the same engines with 70 hours. I pulled it out of wet slip, scrubbed the entire hull, changed oil/ sparks. Oil level is maybe a little bit high but nothing crazy. Running 7500 RPM and only getting 30-33 mph. In TN so elevation is low. Impellers are fine. Is there a trim setting I'm missing or a throttle cable thing? I'm at a loss.

 

[David Martin]

Great advice from FHS 210 you lost 1000 rpm from both engine(thats important) FHS has looked for the common links..............Fuel..... additives, and octane are important as well as fuel freshness. To much stabilizer makes the fuel burn slower too little and it does not protect the gas from going stale.

Your engine was designed to run on 87 octane and designed around pump gas with ethanol 10%. 87 octane is a fast burn fuel and the EMC, engine compression and the cam were designed to give you a certain level of performance on this gas. The EMC has timing control programed in for peak performance on this fuel........if fuel mixture get to far off..... like octane, stabilizer additive, fuel booster, stale fuel ect.... if it falls outside what the computer can compensate for.... performance will suffer.

 

[FSH 210 Sport]

Piggy backing on this thread. My 2018 AR210 is having the exact same problem with the same engines with 70 hours. I pulled it out of wet slip, scrubbed the entire hull, changed oil/ sparks. Oil level is maybe a little bit high but nothing crazy. Running 7500 RPM and only getting 30-33 mph. In TN so elevation is low. Impellers are fine. Is there a trim setting I'm missing or a throttle cable thing? I'm at a loss.

Your rpm’s are not too bad at 7500, max is 8000.. The rpm of your engines is the first goal here. Exactly what elevation and temp was it?

-Correct your oil level. Many have reported lowered rpm’s with oil level at the full mark. Be sure you follow the directions in the manual on checking oil level, especially the part about screwing the dipstick in fully when checking. You might try setting it at the half way mark.

-How much weight did you have in the boat? People and cargo.
-What was the fuel load?
-Try removing the air filters as well just as a test. Make the air boxes are super clean.

 

[mahtin15]

Your rpm’s are not too bad at 7500, max is 8000.. The rpm of your engines is the first goal here. Exactly what elevation and temp was it?

-Correct your oil level. Many have reported lowered rpm’s with oil level at the full mark. Be sure you follow the directions in the manual on checking oil level, especially the part about screwing the dipstick in fully when checking. You might try setting it at the half way mark.

-How much weight did you have in the boat? People and cargo.
-What was the fuel load?
-Try removing the air filters as well just as a test. Make the air boxes are super clean.

3 people. Full fuel. 1 cooler, few small floaties.

Elevation 597'. Temp 90+, water temp 83.

Air box is clean but I'll try taking out the filters.

 

[FSH 210 Sport]

Here’s your density altitude.. I had to make a couple of assumptions but this will probably be close. 3289’ is the density altitude and that is more than likely why you are not seeing closer to 8000 rpm.





If you pick up rpm’s with no air filters get a set of RIVA K&M style air filters. For me at 5000’ with density altitudes approchaing 9500’ in summer, the RIVA air filters gave me 150-200 rpm.

Have you checked the throttle cables to make sure they are adjusted properly?
Did you install OEM spark plugs?

With a full load of fuel and three people, I’m assuming adults, is a bit slower than what I would expect in my boat and our boats have a lot of similarities as they have the same hull and engines. I was in similar conditions recently with two people on board, full fuel, pluse I have a full live well which is 215#, trolling motor and batteries and tackle so a fair bit of weight and I would top out around 38.

Here’s the link to the density altitude calculator; density altitude calculator

 

[MrBubbaGump]

Hi all,

2022 210 fsh I’ve owned it since new. Got the 10 hour service, just put new plugs in at 60ish hours.

I have lost nearly 10mph off my top speed. I have seen 40+ mph, but now “hammer down” puts me at around 30-32mph (GPS on the fish finder). I noticed this spring that I had lost a little top end, but now it’s gotten really bad.

I keep my boat in a freshwater slip. Last weekend I scrubbed the bottom of the hull & checked my zinc anodes, I also put in a set of NGK plugs. I can’t remember the spec, I think .028 was what they measured. The old plugs looked fine to me. I can’t see evidence of oil on the air filter.. I also ditched the 3x 12 lead batteries for 1x 36v lithium.

Nothing has brought my top speed back up.

Is 7k top RPM for the twin 1000cc in the FSH? I feel like hammer down vs 6000- 6500rpm makes a huge difference in the noise but only drops to 27mph versus hardly being able to hit 30-32.

Lake Erie.
569’ above sea level.
Very calm day.
Temperature mid 70’s.

Minimal equipment.

3/4 tank of fuel.

I’m planning on pulling the boat in the next week or two to do a bit of maintenance/cleaning. Not sure if I need to look closer at anything.

Thank you!

@ShireRider WOW someone with the exact same boat same year and same problems. I have a few threads on this as well, I had the exact same scenario when I did my 10 hour service 2 years ago. It went 40+ when I bought it but after that it only goes about 32 MPH. I have jumped through a million hoops talked to corporate took it to multiple dealerships none has figured it out and they don't seem to care they say the RPM's are within limits but at sea level I should be getting more. I have pretty much given up and will probably never buy a Yamaha again. This isn't the only issue I have had with the boat it has been to the shop under extended warranty about 3-4 times each years since May of 2022. I'm saving up for a larger center console with outboards, I have little faith in anyone around here (Tampa, FL) that can work on these jet boats. With that said if I ever get it figured out I will let you know.

 

[ShireRider]

Just a quick update, not much to report really. I grabbed a 100cc syringe (see a couple of posts above) and started removing oil. So far I have taken 300cc from each engine and am just now getting to the “F” mark on my dipstick. I am going to have to go back because 600cc was enough to completely fill the 20oz empty pop bottle I had to put the used oil in.

I did not notice any changes removing this amount of oil. I intend to remove a bit more the next chance I get to hopefully put the oil at 1/2 on the dipstick & see if my RPM goes up.

 

[TommyMcK]

@FSH 210 Sport's replies on this topic have been great (as usual). As I have read through this and Bubba's thread, one common denominator that doesn't seem to have been brought up is that the boats mentioned all seem to have been wet slipped. Not that I know how that could affect top RMP. My first, middle and last inclination when thinking of loss of top RPM is usually density altitude or some other issue with how the ECM is handling mixture. ShireRider's first post clearly indicates that density altitude isn't the issue in his case at least. I struggle to see a likely scenario where the dealer changing the oil resulted in a 500 rpm decrease for both motors. I wonder if there wasn't some other "update" that they flashed as part of that service for FSH210's of this model year that they neglected to mention.

And as mentioned several times in this and the other threads, focus on RPM. If you get that where it's supposed to be, speed is going to be what it is given loading and condition of the hull.