3M 5200 is hard to clean up

[Bruce]

I spent some time prepping my boat for Hydro Turf installation this afternoon. I vacuumed out the floor first. Then I removed the screw in snaps. I cleaned the floor with a magic eraser mop and acetone to remove any chemicals or wax that might prevent the adhesive from bonding.

Then I started filling the snap holes with 3M 5200. This is the first time I have worked with 5200. I typically have used a wet paper towel to wipe away excess of other types of caulk. The 5200 is extra sticky and does not come off with water. Sometimes it even tears ofr pieces of the paper towel.

Fortunately I had a microfiber towel and the acetone nearby so I cleaned the excess off with the microfiber wet (not dripping) with acetone. I think it turned out pretty well.

 

[Glassman]

Bruce, did you use regular or fast cure 5200?

 

[Bruce]

Regular I believe. It listed the curing time as 5 or 7 days. I will give it time to cure before covering up.

Is the fast cure easier to work with?

 

[Jim Robeson]

@Bruce ... you actually used our slow cure product which will be tack free in 48 hours, maybe a little sooner. The fast cure product, 4200, will be tack free in about 45 minutes to an hour depending on temperature and humidity. And your right, not very easy to clean up.

 

[Jim Robeson]

@Bruce ... Here is something that might help in deciding which sealant to use...http://multimedia.3m.com/mws/mediaw...tQEcuZgVs6EVs6E666666--&fn=60-4400-5507-1.pdf

Also, I made a mistake in my earlier post. We do have a 5200 that is a fast cure product so it's very possible that you have that. If the tube is red and white then it is fast cure, if it is blue and white it is slow cure. Sorry for any confusion. Also, if you look on the top of the tube where you attach the nozzle you will see some numbers. If you number reads something like this, 4001AA, then you know that batch was made on the first day of 2014. The "AA" doesn't mean anything. Just helps us keep things straight when we make more than one batch in a day.

 

[Glassman]

Regular I believe. It listed the curing time as 5 or 7 days. I will give it time to cure before covering up.

Is the fast cure easier to work with?

Well, first off, the fast cure is obviously just that, a faster curing material. Not any easier to work with. It just won't stay tacky as long and minimizes the possibility of picking up dirt and becoming yucky (technical term). And not quite as strong as the regular 5200, but those issues shouldn't be a concern here since you are using it as a filler and covering it.

I'm a little curious as to why you chose to use that product to fill the screw holes. Perhaps so that you can re-use the holes down the road? Or ease of application? That's always a consideration over mixing up some filler material.
Between the two, 4200 & 5200, the 5200 is much stronger, but typically isn't used as a filler in this particular scenario (unless, as I mentioned, you want to re-use those holes). And IF you have plans of removing it at a later date, the 4200 is much easier to remove. But, again, these are small holes and you'll have no issues.

Now if you were removing the snaps and leaving the cockpit floor bare, I would always recommend using a vinylester resin (or two part epoxy)/microballoon filler mix and gel coat to totally blend and match the floor.

Anytime I need to bed an object to the hull or deck I'll use either of the above depending on the item; permanent = 5200, removable = 4200. Fast or regular cure is up to you and your schedule.
Example: caulking around cup holders installed on the swim step, I'd use 4200 just in case I want to swap them out. If I was certain they'd never be removed, I'd use 5200. I would not use regular polyurethane caulking or latex/silicone bathroom caulk.

So which Hydro Turf are you going with?

 

[Bruce]

I ordered hydro turf from Will last winter and am just getting around to installing it.

These are the swim deck mats.

 

[Glassman]

very cool...

 

[Volffas]

That looks really cool. Can't wait to see it installed.

 

[Lspeedss]

@Jim Robeson . I used 5200 on the install of my Ocean LED A8. Underwater light. It was a bit runny. As this was the first time using 5200. I was not ready for that. I have not been back down to test my seal. Will be three weeks this Saturday.. is runny normal? It was a warm day 80 degrees. Was this the correct product to use?

 

[maboat]

Example: caulking around cup holders installed on the swim step, I'd use 4200 just in case I want to swap them out. If I was certain they'd never be removed, I'd use 5200. I would not use regular polyurethane caulking or latex/silicone bathroom caulk.

Just curious. For something simple like cupholders, is there something wrong with using latex/silicone bathroom caulk?

 

[Jim Robeson]

@Lspeedss .. you will be just fine using that product. Chances are you got some slow cure material which is a little runner than the fast cure. For some reason the yacht manufacturers like the more runny, slower curing product. Plus we make that in 3 other colors. But to answer you question, it will completely cure in 7 days at 78 +/- 2 degrees at 50% humidity.

 

[Jim Robeson]

@maboat ... I used some clear silicone on mine. Got that from @txav8r.

 

[Glassman]

Just curious. For something simple like cupholders, is there something wrong with using latex/silicone bathroom caulk?

I wouldn't use it outside the boat such as on the swim platform. Reason is that the I've seen what happens to that material when subjected to heat / cooling - it tends to shrink and loose adhesion. Silicone tends to peel off gel coat very easily.
The 3M product won't do that to the same degree. It will stay somewhat flexible, which is good, and not get brittle and crack over time and exposure to U.V., but won't let go.

Inside the boat, if you use the right size hole saw, you don't need anything really. My cockpit cup holders are just pushed into the holes snuggly.

 

[waterboy]

3M 5200 is an incredible product... BUT be very careful where you use it. It is designed really for permanent installation. Through hulls and other things like that. I cringe when I hear people sealing their pumps for instance with this stuff. 5200 is really designed to be never removed and is great for below the water line.

As above, silicone products really do not have any adhesion but are good sealants. Lifecaulk is a great product that (I think) is a silicone blend with urethane (I think). Better adhesion than straight silicone.

Bottom line there are great "marine" sealants, but make sure you use the correct one.

For sealing the screw holes as discussed by OP, West System would be a great option here to go in and plug the holes "like for like"

 

[Glassman]

West System would be a great option here to go in and plug the holes "like for like"

Ah, good to see another fan of West on board. I love that stuff.

 

[waterboy]

Yeah, I will admit to doing a bit of glass work and have some at home. Never anything that had to look good though... only out of sight projects...

 

[maboat]

I wouldn't use it outside the boat such as on the swim platform. Reason is that the I've seen what happens to that material when subjected to heat / cooling - it tends to shrink and loose adhesion. Silicone tends to peel off gel coat very easily.
The 3M product won't do that to the same degree. It will stay somewhat flexible, which is good, and not get brittle and crack over time and exposure to U.V., but won't let go.

Inside the boat, if you use the right size hole saw, you don't need anything really. My cockpit cup holders are just pushed into the holes snuggly.

So its a shrinkage problem?

 

[Jim Robeson]

Just wanted to say thanks for buying all that 3M product!! Makes my 401K look better and better!!

 

[Lspeedss]

Thanks for being on the board. Great to have reps from the products we use.