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80a fuse for JL amp?

slaubman

Jet Boat Lover
Messages
14
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1
Points
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Location
Toronto, Ontario
Boat Make
Scarab
Year
2014
Boat Model
215 ID
Boat Length
21
Local shop installed a JL M800 amp but didn’t have the right fuse so I have to put in this final piece.

I understand I need a 80a fuse but would appreciate it if someone can steer me the right make and model. Attached is a picture of what I believe is the fuse box.
 

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Is there a fuse near the battery? If not the shop that did the install are amateurs. You need a fuse within about 18" of the battery and that's the only fuse you will need. The fuse needs to be sized based on the wire size. The fuse you need is an AGU style.
 
Is there a fuse near the battery? If not the shop that did the install are amateurs. You need a fuse within about 18" of the battery and that's the only fuse you will need. The fuse needs to be sized based on the wire size. The fuse you need is an AGU style.
Actually that's somewhat incorrect. The fuse block is correctly located but the wrong type for marine use.

Fuses are there to protect the boat and wiring, not to protect the amp or battery. The fuse should be as close as feasibly possible to the AMP, not the battery. That way if the amp malfunctions and draws too much current, the fuse will pop before it can cause a melted power cable or overload the battery, both of which can cause a fire.

The fuse needs to be sized for the max draw of the amp, not the wire gauge. The wire gauge needs to be sized for the load it is expected to carry otherwise it's a fire hazard. While a fuse near the battery will protect the wire (if both wire and fuse are properly sized), the purpose is to prevent the wire from bursting into flames regardless of proper sizing, and the only way to do that is to fuse the AMP so it CAN'T draw too much current through the wire, properly sized or not. This applies to ANY electronic device added to a boat, car, truck, etc.

The fuse needed should be an ANL or similar fuse which is rated for marine use near ignition sources such as fuel tanks and hydrogen producing batteries. An AGU fuse is basic glass and NOT rated for ignition protection which means if it pops, it could spark and start a fire.

I hear this misinformation again and again about fuses and what they protect and how to install them...I don't know where it started, but it's bad information which continues to be spread.

@slaubman Yes that is a fuse block for cars, not marine use. While the plastic housing could prevent a spark if the AGU fuse blows, it's not rated to do so which means it's a fire hazard. There's a reason why marine rated items cost more - they're much safer than the standard items used for car stereo systems which typically don't need the extra safety measures.
 
Actually that's somewhat incorrect. The fuse block is correctly located but the wrong type for marine use.

Fuses are there to protect the boat and wiring, not to protect the amp or battery. The fuse should be as close as feasibly possible to the AMP, not the battery. That way if the amp malfunctions and draws too much current, the fuse will pop before it can cause a melted power cable or overload the battery, both of which can cause a fire.

The fuse needs to be sized for the max draw of the amp, not the wire gauge. The wire gauge needs to be sized for the load it is expected to carry otherwise it's a fire hazard. While a fuse near the battery will protect the wire (if both wire and fuse are properly sized), the purpose is to prevent the wire from bursting into flames regardless of proper sizing, and the only way to do that is to fuse the AMP so it CAN'T draw too much current through the wire, properly sized or not. This applies to ANY electronic device added to a boat, car, truck, etc.

The fuse needed should be an ANL or similar fuse which is rated for marine use near ignition sources such as fuel tanks and hydrogen producing batteries. An AGU fuse is basic glass and NOT rated for ignition protection which means if it pops, it could spark and start a fire.

I hear this misinformation again and again about fuses and what they protect and how to install them...I don't know where it started, but it's bad information which continues to be spread.

@slaubman Yes that is a fuse block for cars, not marine use. While the plastic housing could prevent a spark if the AGU fuse blows, it's not rated to do so which means it's a fire hazard. There's a reason why marine rated items cost more - they're much safer than the standard items used for car stereo systems which typically don't need the extra safety measures.

I'm sorry but I don't know where you are getting you information from, but it's wrong. All the information you need is here are a bunch of websites that prove everything you posted is inaccurate. Every article I've posted below say the same thing, install the main fuse as close to the battery as possible and that fuses protect the wire not the equipment. Installing the fuse at the amp leaves the wire from the battery to the fuse unprotected against a short.

Car Audio Fuses Explained - Which Size and Type? (soundrating.com)


And here's an article on marine wiring.


The fuse holder that you have installed is fine. A plastic fuse holder is not going to stop a spark, the only thing that makes a fuse holder marine rated is that it's waterproof. There is not one fuse holder on the market that's going to contain a spark, the only way to prevent a blown fuse from sparking is to use a sand filled fuses typically used in industrial applications. If you are interested these fuse types are type L, RK1, RK5, J, T, G, CC, and CD.
 
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The JL manual says to put it near the battery
 
Likewise Kicker states within 7in. Of the positive terminal.
 
I'm sorry but I don't know where you are getting you information from, but it's wrong.
Fiberglass boats are non-conductive so the possibility of a short is basically nil, unless you completely fudge the wiring. The fuse is there to protect the wiring and other systems in the boat from an added device shorting out, like an amp or fishfinder.

Placing a fuse near the battery is for a vehicle or boat with a metal chassis to protect the vehicle/boat and the power wires. Cars and houses use fuses and breakers near the power source because of the probability of grounding and shorts like pinched wires in a door or screws in the wall hitting live wires.

In a car or boat, double fusing would be ideal protection, but not cost effective.
 
Probably a carry-over from their automotive line.

OK this is my last shot at proving that over current protection is required at the source not the load. The proof for what I am saying is below.

I doubt that there is one amplifier manufacturer whether automotive or marine that recommends fusing the main power feeder at the amp. A fuse or circuit breaker is used to protect the wiring from the source to the load. Most if not all amplifiers have on board fuses and built in over current protection, so fusing near the amplifier is not required.

Directly from the Wetsounds amplifier manual, Wetsounds has never made automotive amps.

1657707299219.png

Directly from the American Boat and Yacht Council (ABYC). Yes it does state that it best not to install over current protection in battery compartments and I doubt that batteries installed in our boats are considered being installed in a compartment. If this is a concern, Blue Sea and others make ignition protected circuit breakers, which won't produce a spark if tripped.

1657708762407.png

From Blue Sea

DC Main Overcurrent Protection Requirements - Blue Sea Systems

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OK this is my last shot at proving that over current protection is required at the source not the load. The proof for what I am saying is below.

I doubt that there is one amplifier manufacturer whether automotive or marine that recommends fusing the main power feeder at the amp. A fuse or circuit breaker is used to protect the wiring from the source to the load. Most if not all amplifiers have on board fuses and built in over current protection, so fusing near the amplifier is not required.

Directly from the Wetsounds amplifier manual, Wetsounds has never made automotive amps.

View attachment 182599

Directly from the American Boat and Yacht Council (ABYC). Yes it does state that it best not to install over current protection in battery compartments and I doubt that batteries installed in our boats are considered being installed in a compartment. If this is a concern, Blue Sea and others make ignition protected circuit breakers, which won't produce a spark if tripped.

View attachment 182600

From Blue Sea

DC Main Overcurrent Protection Requirements - Blue Sea Systems

View attachment 182604

Come on Ripler, you know that a random poster on an internet board certainly knows better than the engineers at a manufacturer. :)
 
Unless you are a member of the American Boat and Yacht Council (ABYC) Electrical Project Technical Committe that writes the nationally recognized (e.g., in a court of law) standards, overcurrent protection requirements on recreational boats are not subject to debate.

The relevant section of the applicable standard E-11 is...
11.10.1.1.1 Overcurrent Protection Device Location - Ungrounded conductors shall be provided with overcurrent protection device(s) within a distance of seven inches (178 mm) of the point at which the conductor is connected to the source of power measured along the conductor

There are some exceptions detailed in the (86 page) document which allow for distances of up to 40" and 72", but none of them include installing an amp in a fiberglass boat because it is non-conductive or a carry-over from the automotive line. :eek:
 
Unless you are a member of the American Boat and Yacht Council (ABYC) Electrical Project Technical Committe that writes the nationally recognized (e.g., in a court of law) standards, overcurrent protection requirements on recreational boats are not subject to debate.

There are some exceptions detailed in the (86 page) document which allow for distances of up to 40" and 72", but none of them include installing an amp in a fiberglass boat because it is non-conductive or a carry-over from the automotive line. :eek:

Only if the wire has insulation and is protected in a sheath or enclosure, ie conduit.
 
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