94 F350 no crank issue

[Scottintexas]

wondering what my voltage should be from the relay to the starter when the key is engaged,

you can see details here,

Intermittent starter cranking - Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums

Pre-Power Stroke Diesel (7.3L IDI & 6.9L) - Intermittent starter cranking - As the title states, my starter doesn’t always engage, I turn the key, get the WTS lights, then turn the key to engage the starter, I hear a click or light “thud” (but not a mechanical banging thud) and nothing, no...

www.ford-trucks.com

Thanks,

 

[Dixie Highway]

I’d tend to agree with the fella that mentioned the solenoid, I had an old Bronco did the same thing. New Motorcraft ones are like $40.

 

[Weeb]

Try jumping the solenoid with a screw driver. If it cranks it’s the starter if not probably the solenoid.

 

[Gym]

wondering what my voltage should be from the relay to the starter when the key is engaged,

you can see details here,

Intermittent starter cranking - Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums

Pre-Power Stroke Diesel (7.3L IDI & 6.9L) - Intermittent starter cranking - As the title states, my starter doesn’t always engage, I turn the key, get the WTS lights, then turn the key to engage the starter, I hear a click or light “thud” (but not a mechanical banging thud) and nothing, no...

www.ford-trucks.com

Thanks,

12 volts @Scottintexas. You should see 12 volts coming from the ignition and 12 volts going to the starter. The solenoid only connects the low current ignition side (skinny wires) to the high current starter side (thick wires).

I would have to respectfully disagree with @Weeb. I think you stated that backwards. If you can get the starter to spin by jumping out the solenoid that indicates a bad solenoid. If you jump the solenoid and get nothing that is either a bad starter or connection to the starter.

Hint...If your ever stuck with a starter that won't turn have someone turn the key to the start position while you whack the starter with a wrench/hammer/tire iron. After it starts get the damn thing replaced.

 

[Weeb]

12 volts @Scottintexas. You should see 12 volts coming from the ignition and 12 volts going to the starter. The solenoid only connects the low current ignition side (skinny wires) to the high current starter side (thick wires).

I would have to respectfully disagree with @Weeb. I think you stated that backwards. If you can get the starter to spin by jumping out the solenoid that indicates a bad solenoid. If you jump the solenoid and get nothing that is either a bad starter or connection to the starter.

Hint...If your ever stuck with a starter that won't turn have someone turn the key to the start position while you whack the starter with a wrench/hammer/tire iron. After it starts get the damn thing replaced.

Your correct I had a brain fart moment. I had to replace numerous starters in my fords. I also climbed underneath and hit with a hammer that saved me a few times.

 

[Neutron]

Is the shifter handle floppy? Those years are notorious for the allen screws backing out, not allowing the shifter to engage each detent properly. It wont allow it to be fully in park, which wont allow to crank
I have seen this happen many times.

 

[Scottintexas]

@Neutron
shifter handle isn't floppy and with power to relay, shouldn't that eliminate key/cylinder/column switch ?
on the ford board the truck also has reputation for the actual start switch in the column to go bad as well as the key/cylinder actuator rod gumming up or breaking, I'm assuming all these are not applicable with power to the relay when the key is turned,

@Gym

just to confirm, my relay, on the fender well,


on the terminal on the relay from the key (the black push on plug) should read 12v when the key is engaged in the start position?

from the relay to the starter solenoid should read 12v (or match whatever the battery is at) when the key is engaged to the start position?

It won't jump with a screwdriver from the relay,

In the picture above, with 10.6 v I had a no crank experience, shortly afterwards the truck did start with the key,

I haven't crawled under and tried the screwdriver on the solenoid yet,



.

 

[Recoveringfiberglassaddic]

10.6 is a pretty good voltage drop if both batteries are good, assuming both batteries are good. I may be speaking incorrectly here but I think that glownplug relay stays latched even after WTS relay goes out so it may explain the low voltage. I'd want to unhook both batteries from each other and then test them(testing them with an electronic battery tester connected in parallel can give some false readings in my experience).

I always just like to rule out batteries before jumping into starting/charging issues.

Looks like you have your meter grounded so testing the voltage on the coil/magnet side of the relay should be closer to 12v. Especially if that's key in crank but not starter isnt cranking(I'm assuming that was the condition in the photo).

 

[Gym]

Yes on the 12 Volts from the ignition when the key is turned. If I understand correctly you're getting 10.6 volts on the starter side of the relay with the key on? If correct I'm guessing the starter is hung up. Try giving the starter a good whack while the key is in the start position. If it starts you'll know you have a bad starter.