'97 Sugar Sand Tango Trim Plate Adjustment

[kaylix]

I wanted to try adjusting my Tim Plate down - I porpoise with the best of them LOL!
But I cannot get any adjustment and I wonder if I'm doing it wrong or have the wrong tools.


So If I try to loosen the "Jam Nut" on either side it only moves a few degrees before getting tight again. If I move the nut to a positing that is NOT tight to the left or the right I can't turn the screws on the bottom of the plate.



What am I doing wrong ? Or do I need to get out the torch?

 

[Blkrvrbart]

Looks like it’s adjusted all the way up. So the jam nut is trapped between the trim plate and stator housing. If you hold the trim bolt with a screwdriver, loosen (turn counterclockwise) the jam nut the five degrees or what you can. Then back the trim bolt out as much as you can. Once again, while holding the trim bolt with a screwdriver, back the jam nut off a little more. Do the same thing with both sides. Then you should be able to adjust them to see about a quarter inch of bolt threads. Then relighted the jam nut to the trim plate. To turn the #3 Phillips drive bolt heads, you may need to put a wrench on your screwdriver or use a #3 driver bit in a 1/4” ratchet and socket. Make sense?

 

[kaylix]

It does make sense. I needed to understand how the nut works, ie. is it holding the screw in place.
So from what you've said I am going to put the nut in the loosest positing between pressing against the top and bottom then Turn the screw counter clockwise. Which is my problem at the moment. The screw on either side doesn't want to move at all. I will try the bit with ratchet trick for some leverage.
I assume that I will only be able to turn the screw a small amount in the beginning until i create more space for the nut to move up or down.
This is very helpful and I will check in the AM.

 

[Blkrvrbart]

Yup. The nut just locks the screw and keeps it from turning. That‘s how the plate stays adjusted.

 

[kaylix]

So I can't get the philips head trim bolt to move at all. You mentioned holding the trim bolt with a screwdriver but, there's no need because the bolt doesn't move anyway.
So I positioned the jam nut counterclockwise until it was snug. Then I try to use a wrench and a #3 then #4 phillips head. I couldn't get enough upward pressure on the bolt so I used a hydraulic jack stand to apply gently pressure to the wrench while trying to loosen the bolt. Rather than loosening the trim bolt the entire rear of the boat raised when turning the wrench.
Should I get the torch out?

 

[Blkrvrbart]

Well, if you heat it up don’t get crazy at first. What kind of torch are you talking? Might just be a lot of loctite on them, a little heat might help. Hard to say without being there.

 

[kaylix]

Good point on the Loctite... do you want to come over and lend a hand?? I'll pay for the gas...

 

[kaylix]

Quick update for those interested. I was able to loosen the screw from their very locked position.
I used a hydraulic jack to apply pressure to the bottom of my ratchet wrench with #3 philips screw attached.
Then I had someone sit on the swim deck. The screws came loose.
I put a 5.5mm gap between the nut and the screw hole. Now no more porpoising.

 

[Blkrvrbart]

I replaced my trim plate with a Place diverter. Works like a dream.

 

[kaylix]

Definitely going this route for next season. Did you do the install yourself? Was it difficult?

 

[Blkrvrbart]

Yes I did the install. Easy process. Hardest part was drilling a hole in the dash. Now that the switch is there I would rather have the steering wheel mounted switch. I normally drive with my right hand on the throttle at all times, so unless I want to switch throttle levers or figure out how to cleanly mount a thumb switch for the trim on the throttle lever, the steering wheel switch might be the best option.

 

[kaylix]

Thanks for the heads-up.

 

[biffdotorg]

Quick update for those interested. I was able to loosen the screw from their very locked position.
I used a hydraulic jack to apply pressure to the bottom of my ratchet wrench with #3 philips screw attached.
Then I had someone sit on the swim deck. The screws came loose.
I put a 5.5mm gap between the nut and the screw hole. Now no more porpoising.

For those of us that have done this and even went with a longer ride plate, be careful. The bolts are super weak and can shear. Thus leaving half the bolt, or a portion stuck in the hole to drill/fill/tap etc. Putting in stronger grade bolts may be needed as well. As the forces exerted on them will be much greater the lower you drop it.

I put on an extended ride plate and hade to up the grade of my hardware, as I was shearing at least one per season. But the ride was amazingly better!

Good luck!

PS: take notes on if your boat pulls to the left or the right after adjustment. As the ride plate has a lot to do with that. Adjusting a couple threads will make the boat pull right or left.

 

[kaylix]

When you say 'ride plate' are you talking about the trim plate? Where did you find a longer plate?

 

[biffdotorg]

Yup, that's the one. On jet pumps, that's considered a "ride Plate" as the balance of the hull truly rides on the position of that plate. The extended ride plate I installed was made of Stainless steel and extended at least another 3" past the factory one. Mine was shorter than most, as I had CobraJet steering installed, and the ride plate would strike the fins unless I went shorter.

Head over to seadooforum.com and look up AM Ride Plate or Aquaman Extended Ride plate. He may still be making them. He had a local metal shop fab up small batches.

Good luck!

 

[kaylix]

TYVM!