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A new tab controller and my wife's bargain

Speedling

Jetboaters Admiral
Messages
5,157
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432
Location
Cedar Lake, IN
Boat Make
Yamaha
Year
2008
Boat Model
SS
Boat Length
21
My wife really wants to return to Bimini. I mean, who wouldn't?
So I realized on the trip that trim tabs and sound deadening would be a huge benefit for our boat. My sound deadening made a small difference but not enough.
Started looking into the tabs and got ahold of Lectrotab.
I like the look of the systems and was told of a new controller the SLC.
Broke it down for people can get info on everything!
Here's how it all goes down...
rocker switchThis is the regular rocker control. For my setup, I am quoted 513.60 total. This is the SAF-SC and the size tabs and actuaters I need.
ALC controlThis is the MLC-1 The buttons seems straight forward like the regular rocker however it works slightly different. From Russ:
"The MLC-1 has an auto retract mode for the tabs when you turn off the ignition key. It can also remember it’s last setting and will automatically adjust the tabs back to where they were before stopping the boat.

The MLC-1, also reacts a little different in the way it moves the tabs. End result is the same, but it may catch you a little off guard, if you are accustom to a rocker switch.

For example, if you push “starboard side down” the MLC-1 will actually retract the starboard tab. Once fully retracted, it will deploy the port tab until the starboards side reaches the level you want. (The opposite for the port side)

A standard rocker switch will deploy the port side tab if “starboard side down” is desired. If this isn’t enough, they you manually retract the starboard tab.
"


oval controlThis is the new SLC-11 It works like a regular rocker as far as deployment but does the auto retract with key off etc. IT doesn't retract one side when the other side is deployed. I personally like that idea so I can keep both sides deployed without one retracting to add to the other.
The MLC and SLC were quoted both for me at 672.60
ALC controlThis is the ALC which once calibrated should keep you leveled out automatically. I didn't get this quoted as I don't think I would like something so automatic.

My wife says if I buy tabs for Bimini, I better go! That's the deal!
I am torn between the basic manual and the SLC controllers.
For $160 extra is it worth it?
Links for your reference.
Also found:
9 x 12 Lenco Standard Boat Trim Tab Kit #15001-101 which has $391 for kit and $259 for switch but standard not short actuators and wouldn't have the ends turned like my other quotes.
 
Yes, it's worth it. It shows you were it is and auto retracts. Not a huge price difference. Worth it.
 
I would agree. MLC for me in that situation.

But I am curious why you don't think you would like the ALC? That is where I would be looking if I were going to Bimini. Set and forget so you can focus on other things... And if you don't want it doing that for you, you flip it off of auto and manually adjust. As I said, curious as to your thoughts there.
 
Yes, it's worth it. It shows you were it is and auto retracts. Not a huge price difference. Worth it.
MLC, SLC and ALC all auto retract with key off.
I think I would prefer to be in control of how much tab I have down. For example, say they are at 30% but I want more down on Port. The MLC will retract the Starboard first and then if I need more put port down. In rough stuff I would think I may want to keep Starboard at 30% and then add some more to port which if I understand correctly it won't do. Perhaps I would need to use the bow down button to achieve that but it seems simpler with the SLC.
 
I would agree. MLC for me in that situation.

But I am curious why you don't think you would like the ALC? That is where I would be looking if I were going to Bimini. Set and forget so you can focus on other things... And if you don't want it doing that for you, you flip it off of auto and manually adjust. As I said, curious as to your thoughts there.
I can't find it at the moment but one person posted that it works great on a mostly calm lake with little wind and will compensate for people shifting but not so great at the rough waves. I would not be walking around the boat or unsecuring any luggage so that seems silly to spend money on that.
I also like my cables on my throttles and no computer screen in my dash to worry about, lol.
 
I believe @Mainah had the ALC, and didn't care for it on the yammy. My memory could be wrong.

As a tab virgin myself, I'll tell ya, I wish I had it. I've got basic rockers with no indicators now and I'm always fidgeting with it. And, it seems they don't react instantly. I'm upgrading to an indicator switch very soon, and seriously thinking about the auto setup. Maybe it's just the learning curve.
 
@Speedling I would strongly recommend the MLC-1, it is the most intuitive and IMO best system for the money.
Our boats are just too small for full auto, some other issues that @Mainah found notwithstanding, in rough water they would go berserk. With the MLC-1 you have 4 buttons and don't need to think about it at all. I think of it as almost like semi-auto, with total manual control but simplified.
I have not yet found myself in a situation where the MLC would not make the tabs do what I want them to do.

Just my 0.02.

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Keep in mind... u will find your self using the tabs to help with course correction often. When our boats are in strong cross winds we have to add a lot of steering to keep on course ... with tabs I will deploy one a little more to correct it and the wheel input goes to zero to maintain course. . I have the slc and love it ... I can glance at it and tell where my tabs are.
 
As @swatski and others have said on the MLC. I installed mine 2 years ago. The MLC-1 controller works very nicely and I do like hearing them retract when I shut down the boat. Sometimes I forget they are back there. It is easy to use and you still have full manual control of their deployment. My wife asked me if we really needed these out on the Lake, but from the first test ride with them on she was sold. She has said more than once..."It's the best mod you put on the Yamaha". She loves to ride in the bow and these eliminated the porpoising up there. Much smoother ride in the chop.
 
The ALC works just like the MLC when you turn auto off. I’m the one that posted about ALC working great in calm waters. Our lake gets choppy so I manually set it to 2 or 3 and forget about it. Works great that way.
 
ALC does work great to level the boat for load in calm waters. Need to change to manual mode in rough waters to bury the bow more as mentioned above. Into my second season with them and I would recommend the mlc with short throw actuators. Our lake can get rough and so glad we have them.
 
I am also shopping for tabs and talked to Russ at Lectrotab. I think I'm going with the MLC-11. Another feature of the new controller is that it allows you to turn off the auto retract feature for stop/starts like when fishing or picking up a skier. Then the tabs stay in their position after key is off.
 
Great advice guys.
What about mlc vs slc as i am basically seeing all the same features except how the mlc retracts on side before deploying the other. At least that's how i understood what he said, which is why i quoted
 
Great advice guys.
What about mlc vs slc as i am basically seeing all the same features except how the mlc retracts on side before deploying the other. At least that's how i understood what he said, which is why i quoted
That’s kind of why I came to think of it as a semi auto, of sorts. And it shows the position/deployment of each tab.
It retracts the other side before deploying the opposite. Which is the way you would want to do this most of the time anyway. But if both are deployed to various degrees the up or down button will move both tabs up or down, in parallel.
So, you are not really stuck with the MLC wherever you want your tabs to be.
The SLC or MLC - I would think comes down to personal preference.
Auto is more options and more fancy, you pay a bit more though and need to calibrate to run in auto mode well.

 
Oops. I meant to say SLC-11 when I made that comment about auto retract disabling. That and the feature @Speedling mentioned and the physical look of the controller are the only differences that Russ mentioned to me.
 
But the MLC so that you have a single button to increase and decrease trim so that you do not start banking while trying to increase trim in rough water.
 
It retracts the other side before deploying the opposite. Which is the way you would want to do this most of the time anyway.
I'm still thinking about getting tabs... Why is this the case? As in, why would you manually do it this way if the MLC didn't do it for you?
 
I'm still thinking about getting tabs... Why is this the case? As in, why would you manually do it this way if the MLC didn't do it for you?
If you deploy a tab on one side to adjust boat's list, not attitude, you would want to have the other side retracted completely, first. I think.

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T
If you deploy a tab on one side to adjust boat's list, not attitude, you would want to have the other side retracted completely, first. I think.

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That is correct. But i am probably making something out of nothing when i wonder how it works if you want to add a little more one side but it then retracts the opposite first thus changing bow height as well. Never had tabs so don't know how it would react.
 
T
That is correct. But i am probably making something out of nothing when i wonder how it works if you want to add a little more one side but it then retracts the opposite first thus changing bow height as well. Never had tabs so don't know how it would react.
Correct! If the other side is already completely deployed the side button will just drop that tab lower. On the other hand, top or bottom button will move both regardless of the position. And you always see the position of either on the LEDs.
Can't go wrong with either SLC or MLC!

Lectrotabs are probably the best in the indudtry for our purposes, they build very sturdy short actuator and they use those patented pressure-equilibrating conduits inside the cables that save the actuators from water intrusion in the long run.

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