Adding amp to cabin speakers

[Crob83]

Another audio thread, my apologies in advance. I am replacing all of my cabin speakers with WS 6-S and I would like to amplify them. My towers are already on an old MTX 400 watt amp. Should I get amp to push all 6 speakers, or a separate one for the 4 cabins since the towers are already good to go. And the #1 reason for the thread, how do I amplify the cabins and what amp should I buy. May add a sub as well!

 

[Crob83]

Or my other option is go the easy route and just add a powered bass tube under the bench, at which point I would probably wish my cabin speakers were louder....lol

 

[Julian]

Another audio thread, my apologies in advance. I am replacing all of my cabin speakers with WS 6-S and I would like to amplify them. My towers are already on an old MTX 400 watt amp. Should I get amp to push all 6 speakers, or a separate one for the 4 cabins since the towers are already good to go. And the #1 reason for the thread, how do I amplify the cabins and what amp should I buy. May add a sub as well!

Oh so many ways to solve this I'm not sure where to start. One question....do you have a budget? If unlimited, then I'd buy an 8 channel JL amp use 6 for your existing speakers and bridge the last 2 for a new sub.
Another option is to buy a 5 channel amp and just add the cabin speakers to it, then use the extra for the sub (they are built that way to handle the sub more seamlessly).

 

[Crob83]

Oh so many ways to solve this I'm not sure where to start. One question....do you have a budget? If unlimited, then I'd buy an 8 channel JL amp use 6 for your existing speakers and bridge the last 2 for a new sub.
Another option is to buy a 5 channel amp and just add the cabin speakers to it, then use the extra for the sub (they are built that way to handle the sub more seamlessly).

Ok, I'll look into amps. So do I just see where the factory speakers go into the head unit, and re route them to the amp instead. I am an amateur with stereo equipment, but it sounds fairly easy. I did wire my amp and towers so I'm not completely useless....lmao.

 

[Crob83]

@Julian what are tour thoughts on this amp? I know it's not JL or WS, but seems like a pretty good deal for $300.

 

[jthackman]

looks like a good price on that jbl amp...seems like someone on here installed that model.

maybe look at this one also...sim price, slightly more power

https://www.amazon.com/NVX-VAD11005-1100W-5-Channel-Powersports-Amplifier/dp/B07NGPX7XX

 

[Crob83]

looks like a good price on that jbl amp...seems like someone on here installed that model.

maybe look at this one also...sim price, slightly more power

https://www.amazon.com/NVX-VAD11005-1100W-5-Channel-Powersports-Amplifier/dp/B07NGPX7XX

Never heard of that brand, it has very solid reviews. Which one would you buy if it was you!?

 

[Crob83]

I ended up going with the JBL just now...lol. $298 brand new I just couldn't pass it up. Now to pick a subwoofer!!!

 

[jthackman]

hah...i'm sure it'll be great
i've been looking for a reason (excuse) to upgrade my 6ch mbquart with that nvx...happy with it, but currently have 90w to 8-6.5" kickers and 180w to a 10" sub.....would give me a bump to 125w and 350w

search this site for 'jbl ma4505'....there were several threads, may help with planning your zones

 

[Crob83]

hah...i'm sure it'll be great
i've been looking for a reason (excuse) to upgrade my 6ch mbquart with that nvx...happy with it, but currently have 90w to 8-6.5" kickers and 180w to a 10" sub.....would give me a bump to 125w and 350w

search this site for 'jbl ma4505'....there were several threads, may help with planning your zones

I will do that, I went with the JBL partly because I have a JBL amp in my truck that's been solid for 3+ years

 

[Crob83]

Thinking about just going with this, I could fit both amps (1 is already there) and this sub In the port side rear storage area with the batteries. May have to move the fire extinguisher, but I doubt it. I just finished replacing all 4 of my cabins and the 2 towers with the WS 6-S. They sound better than the polk/kicker combo already, you can def tell a difference. Gonna be extra happy with the amp and sub installed

 

[Julian]

@Julian what are tour thoughts on this amp? I know it's not JL or WS, but seems like a pretty good deal for $300.

Sorry for the late reply, but looks like you got a good price on the JBL!

I'd probably run new speaker wire to the speakers just because that would probably be easier than teasing apart Yamaha's wiring looms!

If you keep your current amp....does it have any RCA outputs...that would be the easiest way to connect the new amp. Otherwise you another option is to Y the RCAs and adjust the amp input levels (the JBL has them).

 

[Crob83]

Sorry for the late reply, but looks like you got a good price on the JBL!

I'd probably run new speaker wire to the speakers just because that would probably be easier than teasing apart Yamaha's wiring looms!

If you keep your current amp....does it have any RCA outputs...that would be the easiest way to connect the new amp. Otherwise you another option is to Y the RCAs and adjust the amp input levels (the JBL has them).

I was hoping you weren't going to say I had to run new wires to the cabin speakers...lol. Yes I am keeping my current amp on the towers, it has the RCA output that I currently have ran to the head unit if that's what you mean. That's why I only got a 5 channel foe the 4 cabin speakers and a sub. Is there a way to keep the current wiring for the cabins, seems like it would be much easier solution.

 

[Julian]

I was hoping you weren't going to say I had to run new wires to the cabin speakers...lol. Yes I am keeping my current amp on the towers, it has the RCA output that I currently have ran to the head unit if that's what you mean. That's why I only got a 5 channel foe the 4 cabin speakers and a sub. Is there a way to keep the current wiring for the cabins, seems like it would be much easier solution.

Of course there is....would need to understand where the current head unit is in relation to where you will put your new amp. If they are near each other...easy. If not, then might be simpler to run new wires (which really isn't hard).

 

[Crob83]

Of course there is....would need to understand where the current head unit is in relation to where you will put your new amp. If they are near each other...easy. If not, then might be simpler to run new wires (which really isn't hard).

Yes it's a 2018 so my head unit is in the glove box. So it's a very short easy run to the amp down the port side. Like 5 feet maximum, I'm glad my head unit is over there instead of in the console for this reason

 

[Julian]

Yamaha's wires are usually very well labeled (on the wires themselves), so you just need to

1. look at the speaker ires coming out of the HU, cut and strip them, and attach them to the new amp.
2. extend or Y the blue remote (or blue strip) wire that turns on the amp(s)
3. determine how to get signal to the amp - are there extra RCAs from the HU, does your current amp have outputs etc.
4. Determine how to get power to the amp.....run wires or use existing ones you ran for the current amp (be sure they are big enough and fused).

 

[Crob83]

Yamaha's wires are usually very well labeled (on the wires themselves), so you just need to

1. look at the speaker ires coming out of the HU, cut and strip them, and attach them to the new amp.
2. extend or Y the blue remote (or blue strip) wire that turns on the amp(s)
3. determine how to get signal to the amp - are there extra RCAs from the HU, does your current amp have outputs etc.
4. Determine how to get power to the amp.....run wires or use existing ones you ran for the current amp (be sure they are big enough and fused).

Ok, thank you. Sounds fairly simple! What do you mean extend or Y the remote wire, I can't put 2 remote wires in the same slot on the back of the HU? I assume an RCA splitter is probably the easiest method to get signal to the new amp, but I could be wrong ..lol. I assume I will just run new wires since my old amp is only 450w and this is 1800.

 

[Onserve212X]

I didn’t do a good job capturing everything, but another amp was added to allow future mods and flexibility. Used rca y cable to split the signal. Ran new speaker cables and installed a fan near the amps to help keep them cool. Yamaha tuned the original Polk Audio amp to 8 ohms per connection. Underrating the amp allows it to last longer and less heat, but doesn’t provide the watts needed. I went mostly with DS18 speakers and 8” in the cabin. Went with LED speakers with a DS18 bluetooth controller. The sub was changed from 4 ohm to 2 ohm dual voice channel, putting it to 400 watts on the factory Polk Audio amp. The sub is generic and probably should have went with WS, but it got excellent reviews on Amazon. It sounds great and i can easily enjoy the music at top speed. Love the highs, mids, and lows. i hope this gives you some options.

 

[Crob83]

Quick question. I have the amp now, and the speaker and knu concepts wiring kit has shipped as well. My MTX amp grounded on the battery since I don't have a bus bar or anything. Will I be fine grounding this amp on the same battery terminal of my accessory battery? And I have a house and a deep cycle. But they are just interstate batteries, nothing fancy. Should I be fine if these batteries are newer and in good working order? (Always kept on battery tender when not in use) or should I upgrade to better batteries

 

[212s]

Quick question. I have the amp now, and the speaker and knu concepts wiring kit has shipped as well. My MTX amp grounded on the battery since I don't have a bus bar or anything. Will I be fine grounding this amp on the same battery terminal of my accessory battery?

Yes grounding to the battery is the proper way to wire it.

And I have a house and a deep cycle. But they are just interstate batteries, nothing fancy. Should I be fine if these batteries are newer and in good working order? (Always kept on battery tender when not in use) or should I upgrade to better batteries

Depends on your usage...if you don't crank it while floating, then you don't need much to run the amps. The guys who install a monster system and 3-4 batteries are blasting tunes for hours. We generally don't do that...when floating it's usually at background levels so we can talk and gets turned up occasionally. When cruising we have it turned up too but the engines are running to keep the batteries charged.