- Messages
- 13,385
- Reaction score
- 13,502
- Points
- 857
- Location
- Royal, AR
- Boat Make
- Yamaha
- Year
- 2007
- Boat Model
- SX
- Boat Length
- 23
On my 2007 SX230 and I believe many newer and older models the steering cable connects via a 1/4" stainless bolt that goes through a slightly over 5/16" hole in the aluminum deflector nozzle. I once saw a picture of I believe a first generation SX230 with plastic bushings inside the 5/16" hole. I was unable to find the part number for any Yamaha bushings so I decided to create my own.
I opted for PSF0305-04 flanged linear sleeve bearings. They came with a Frelon liner for self lubrication but I had to drill that out as a 3/16"x5/16"x1/2" bearing was as close as I could find so I drilled them out to 1/4". I purchased a two pack of these bearings for $9.52 shipped from Pacific Bearing on eBay. I added a small amount of grease inside and outside of the bearings when I installed them.
I considered self oiling bronze bushings. If I had a found a similar deal on them I probably would have gone that way. But with the similar materials and the bushing drilled out to a thin wall aluminum may be a better material.
After installation steering required little if any additional force compared to before.
This project took less than 30 minutes and cost less than $10.
Here is a video showing the reduced movement in the port jet which has had the bearing installed compared to the starboard which is in factory configuration.
These are the bearings as they came from the factory.
This is the bearing on a drill press held by vice grips. I used blue tape to avoid scratching the outside of the bearing. The most challenging part is getting the vice grips to hold the bearing securely without damaging it. The bearing is offset in the vice grips so that the flange is resting flat on the wood. Then you drill slowly to avoid spinning the bearing.
This is the bearing after drilling.
You can see the new inner diameter compared to the old.
In this photo you can see the gap between the 1/4" bolt and the 5/16" hole.
The bearing fits perfectly in the hole.
Now the 1/8" of slop is gone.
Update after the first outing;
This mod rocks.
At speed I noticed the boat reacted much faster when I turned the wheel and that I was turning the wheel less to make the same turns that I have made many times in the past.
At low speed @Rana noticed much more precision loading her on the trailer.
This is a big win!
In 2020 I switched to using 3D printed bushings. They fit more tightly and work better. You can order those at https://jetboaters.net/forums/3d-printed-parts.118/
I opted for PSF0305-04 flanged linear sleeve bearings. They came with a Frelon liner for self lubrication but I had to drill that out as a 3/16"x5/16"x1/2" bearing was as close as I could find so I drilled them out to 1/4". I purchased a two pack of these bearings for $9.52 shipped from Pacific Bearing on eBay. I added a small amount of grease inside and outside of the bearings when I installed them.
I considered self oiling bronze bushings. If I had a found a similar deal on them I probably would have gone that way. But with the similar materials and the bushing drilled out to a thin wall aluminum may be a better material.
After installation steering required little if any additional force compared to before.
This project took less than 30 minutes and cost less than $10.
Here is a video showing the reduced movement in the port jet which has had the bearing installed compared to the starboard which is in factory configuration.
These are the bearings as they came from the factory.
This is the bearing on a drill press held by vice grips. I used blue tape to avoid scratching the outside of the bearing. The most challenging part is getting the vice grips to hold the bearing securely without damaging it. The bearing is offset in the vice grips so that the flange is resting flat on the wood. Then you drill slowly to avoid spinning the bearing.
This is the bearing after drilling.
You can see the new inner diameter compared to the old.
In this photo you can see the gap between the 1/4" bolt and the 5/16" hole.
The bearing fits perfectly in the hole.
Now the 1/8" of slop is gone.
Update after the first outing;
This mod rocks.
At speed I noticed the boat reacted much faster when I turned the wheel and that I was turning the wheel less to make the same turns that I have made many times in the past.
At low speed @Rana noticed much more precision loading her on the trailer.
This is a big win!
In 2020 I switched to using 3D printed bushings. They fit more tightly and work better. You can order those at https://jetboaters.net/forums/3d-printed-parts.118/
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