Advice on Stuck Jet Cleanout Plug LS 2000

[HiTekRedNek]

I'm looking to become the formerly boatless HiTekRedNek. I'm looking at an 01 Yamaha LS 2000. Boat has been used mainly in salt water. Really clean looking boat based on sellers photos. He's had it 18 years and seems to have kept up on maintenance and repairs. Except one thing... He told me last night that in 18 years, he has never opened and cleaned the jet cleanouts, and now they're "stuck". So any tips on how to "un-stuck" these cleanouts? Should I back away slowly? Thanks in advance!

 

[Julian]

Many many threads on the forum on this....do a quick search and you'll find tons.

First, the reverse move is easy and effective (see post is tips forum).

Second, if you are dead set on getting them out, I'd just order a rebuild kit and disassemble them in place and drill out the stuck lower halves. If they've not been removed in 18 years they will put up one hell of a fight.

 

[HiTekRedNek]

Many many threads on the forum on this....do a quick search and you'll find tons.

First, the reverse move is easy and effective (see post is tips forum).

Second, if you are dead set on getting them out, I'd just order a rebuild kit and disassemble them in place and drill out the stuck lower halves. If they've not been removed in 18 years they will put up one hell of a fight.

 

[HiTekRedNek]

Thanks, Julian! I did see some of the posts on this. You're the first I heard of disassembling the plug and drilling out the lower halves. Is it the lower part that typically seizes in the tube? Does the top section with the latch handle and dogs tend to seize up as well? I can see a couple of the Yamaha Manhole Repair Kits and a pair of the Cobra Jet EZ Locks in my future if I buy this boat.

 

[Scottintexas]

Are you ok with two stroke engines ? any mechanical experience ? you're aware they can smoke/stink ?

did he change them to premix or does he still have oil injection?

only asking because they require more owner involvement than the newer 4 stroke engines,

 

[Scottintexas]

Thanks, Julian! I did see some of the posts on this. You're the first I heard of disassembling the plug and drilling out the lower halves. Is it the lower part that typically seizes in the tube? Does the top section with the latch handle and dogs tend to seize up as well? I can see a couple of the Yamaha Manhole Repair Kits and a pair of the Cobra Jet EZ Locks in my future if I buy this boat.

normally the lower half gets cemented into place with sediment build up/swelling, the latch and dogs don't normally cause the problem,

I wouldn't let stuck plugs keep me from buying the boat but it would make me look more closely at the rest of it, now you have to trust he flushed it after every use to avoid sediment build up in the cooling system (you wouldn't know that unless you took it all apart, although you could probably look at the thermostat for a hint)


.

 

[HiTekRedNek]

normally the lower half gets cemented into place with sediment build up/swelling, the latch and dogs don't normally cause the problem,

Thanks, Scott!

 

[HiTekRedNek]

Are you ok with two stroke engines ? any mechanical experience ? you're aware they can smoke/stink ?

did he change them to premix or does he still have oil injection?

only asking because they require more owner involvement than the newer 4 stroke engines,

Fair question, Scott! If I buy it, this would be the first multi-cylinder two stroke I've owned. I've tinkered with two stroke dirt bikes for friends. I rebuilt my first automotive V8 forty plus years ago, and have done another ten or so since then. I've built a couple of Saturday night dirt track stock cars. And I understand the fundamental differences of two vs. four stroke.

I asked the PO if he was running pre-mix and he said no. I've read plenty of horror stories about the crummy oil supply lines on these boats and how they tend to clog. I was considering replacing the oil lines to prevent killing an engine, but then lots of owners just run 50:1 pre-mix. What's your take on the pros and cons?

Thanks!

 

[HiTekRedNek]

normally the lower half gets cemented into place with sediment build up/swelling, the latch and dogs don't normally cause the problem,

I wouldn't let stuck plugs keep me from buying the boat but it would make me look more closely at the rest of it, now you have to trust he flushed it after every use to avoid sediment build up in the cooling system (you wouldn't know that unless you took it all apart, although you could probably look at the thermostat for a hint)


.

Thanks, Scott! Do these engines have any sort of pipe thread plug in the water jacket that could be removed to see what kind of gunk comes out? I realize you can't use the flush adapter without the engine running, but if there is such a plug, could you remove the plug, start the engine, then turn on the flush water?

 

[Scottintexas]

. What's your take on the pros and cons?

buy a 4 stroke ! but I'm not very mechanical, I strongly considered a 2 stroke and feel lucky I didn't get one, I'm not as mechanically savy so If I burnt a piston or it had to be rebuilt it would be going to a mechanic,

with your experience I think it shouldn't be an issue, just want to make sure you know what you're getting into,

Thanks, Scott! Do these engines have any sort of pipe thread plug in the water jacket that could be removed to see what kind of gunk comes out? I realize you can't use the flush adapter without the engine running, but if there is such a plug, could you remove the plug, start the engine, then turn on the flush water?

not that I'm aware of, the only easy access would be either the thermostat and if available the engine anode (not sure if the 2 strokes had one), other than that you'd have to take either the exhaust manifold off or the exhaust pipe to see the cooling passages,

.

 

[HiTekRedNek]

Scott, thanks for all the input. It is much appreciated! I'm man enough (can we still say that in 2020?) to know that I'm a noob at this, and I'm grateful for any advice I can get. I'm looking at the man's boat Saturday, if he doesn't sell it beforehand. Maybe I'll be able to change my "boatless" Status this weekend. ?

 

[the MfM]

I wouldn't let stuck plugs keep me from buying the boat but it would make me look more closely at the rest of it, now you have to trust he flushed it after every use to avoid sediment build up in the cooling system (you wouldn't know that unless you took it all apart, although you could probably look at the thermostat for a hint)

Thermostats?!? The LS2000 is the pinnacle of raw performance, simplicity and reliability. We don’t have none of that unnecessary crap like thermostats weighing the boat down.

If the engines have good compression buy the boat (110 to 120psi is good)!! If they don’t you can go through each engine yourself for ~$500. (Pistons, rings and all the gaskets to do a full rebuild)

If the last owner hasn’t done the carbs in a while plan to do them ASAP. If the engines take more then one or two turns of the key to start when cold or fire immediately when warm then it’s time to do the carbs.

 

[HiTekRedNek]

Thermostats?!? The LS2000 is the pinnacle of raw performance, simplicity and reliability. We don’t have none of that unnecessary crap like thermostats weighing the boat down.

If the engines have good compression buy the boat (110 to 120psi is good)!! If they don’t you can go through each engine yourself for ~$500. (Pistons, rings and all the gaskets to do a full rebuild)

If the last owner hasn’t done the carbs in a while plan to do them ASAP. If the engines take more then one or two turns of the key to start when cold or fire immediately when warm then it’s time to do the carbs.

Thanks, @the MfM !

 

[tdonoughue]

But, to @Scottintexas 's point, there should still be an engine anode you can pull to examine a part of the engine cooling path.

@the MfM , y'all do still have electrons in your metal on those things, right? Or is that more 'unnecessary crap'? <sorry, couldn't resist>

 

[the MfM]

But, to @Scottintexas 's point, there should still be an engine anode you can pull to examine a part of the engine cooling path.

@the MfM , y'all do still have electrons in your metal on those things, right? Or is that more 'unnecessary crap'? <sorry, couldn't resist>

Engine anode?!?


Never noticed one. Sounds heavy though.

gif hosting

Two strokes, being the newer technology, are a little more refined. Fuel/oil in on the left and smoke goes out the right after all the raw power is extracted (notice the lack of crappy things like leaky oil coolers or $2k computers.)?

 

[tdonoughue]

Actually not heavy at all. You could mistake it for a bolt screwed into the block... I was seriously looking at your pic to see if I could spot it on the block parts.

 

[HiTekRedNek]

Actually not heavy at all. You could mistake it for a bolt screwed into the block... I was seriously looking at your pic to see if I could spot it on the block parts.

I've had more than one two-stroke owner tell me there are no sacrificial anodes in the two stroke models. Don't have first hand experience to speak one way or the other... yet.

 

[tdonoughue]

No anodes? No wonder 2-strokes are crap. @the MfM (just had to tag you for that one)

I guess it is possible. No direct experience on the other side from which to draw. Maybe the those 2 strokes really don't have electrons...

 

[jjtherocketman]

You guys crack me up....just bought a 2000 LS2000 last weekend and it appears to have been maintained fairly well, but you guessed it....those clean out plugs are stuck. Been reading all these threads and will methodically attempt to tap and pull hoping for the best. But what is the "reverse technique" I've seen mentioned above?

 

[tdonoughue]

Pretty sure the 2000 LS2000 has the 'normal' plugs (not screw-in type), but confirm that first. Nothing worse than trying to pull out something that ought be screwed out.

On the reverse move: basically, you put it in reverse, go as fast as you can. Pull the lanyard and shove the throttles full forward at the same time. Pushing the throttle forward opens the gate over the jet; the backward momentum of the boat pushes water into the jet in reverse--hopefully flushing out anything that had been sucked up against the grate on the bottom.

Highly effective if you are jammed up with weeds. Much less effective if you have sucked up a stick or have something seriously jammed in the impeller.