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Aftermarket Trailer

AlphaKap

Jetboaters Commander
Messages
434
Reaction score
501
Points
192
Location
Alpharetta, GA
Boat Make
Yamaha
Year
2017
Boat Model
242X E-Series
Boat Length
24
I am buying a 2017 242x to replace the 242 SE we lost. Great deal but it does not have a trailer.

I would like to go aluminum if that will drop some weight. Will not see much salt water though. Typical usage will be from storage to the ramp, less than 5 miles.

Any suggestions? What is the typical price I should be looking at?

Thanks!
 
We paid 3k ish for our trailer... but we travel with ours. Been from ohio to fort Lauderdale fl and everywhere in between. Loadrite is the one we purchased.... its an aluminum ibeam trailer.
 
Judging from the boat you are buying I would assume that money is not an issue. So dropping an extra $1,000 to $1,500 for an aluminum trailer it is not a bit idea. I am fairly positive when you turn around to sale that boat you will get that $1,500 back
 
Judging from the boat you are buying I would assume that money is not an issue. So dropping an extra $1,000 to $1,500 for an aluminum trailer it is not a bit idea. I am fairly positive when you turn around to sale that boat you will get that $1,500 back

I wish money wasn't an issue. Clearly based on that Ramsey guy I am a fool for taking any loan out!

I want to stay under $4k. The less I pay, the more toys I can buy.
 
My humble (and cheap) thought. Trailer is for utility... look for used if you can help it..somebody got a boat lift or put the boat in the dry dock marina and is paying to have the trailer stored while they sell it...they are motivated... find this person!

Aluminum is NICE, but it's not cheap. Galvanized will last forever anyway. if you need new axles and leaf springs in 10 years you will still be ahead.

If you really really want aluminum and are willing to pay for it, enjoy it. It sure looks nice. Not sure in your situation it would provide any additional value other than looks. (Who am I to knock it? just a cheap guy that likes to get full value for his money)
 
My humble (and cheap) thought. Trailer is for utility... look for used if you can help it..somebody got a boat lift or put the boat in the dry dock marina and is paying to have the trailer stored while they sell it...they are motivated... find this person!

Aluminum is NICE, but it's not cheap. Galvanized will last forever anyway. if you need new axles and leaf springs in 10 years you will still be ahead.

If you really really want aluminum and are willing to pay for it, enjoy it. It sure looks nice. Not sure in your situation it would provide any additional value other than looks. (Who am I to knock it? just a cheap guy that likes to get full value for his money)
I agree with this. Doesnt sound like.original poster is gonna be hauling all over the place like i was. However i will point out that i sold my old mfi trailer thag needed a lot of work for half of the cost of my aluminum... so its like i got the aluminum for half price.... doesnt help the OP but it makes me smile!
 
The reason I was looking at Aluminum was because we are at the limit on tow rating and not looking to upgrade tow vehicles yet. We have a rating of 6000 lbs. Things felt okay towing the 242SE but was not comfortable towing long distances.

Anyone have an idea on the weight difference between aluminum and galvanized?

 
I cannot find any data, but it seems aluminum comes in at 10-15% lighter.... so at best your maybe saving 200-300lbs?
 
If I recall correctly mine was a 1,280lbs. Not sure on the weight of the shorelanders though
 
I wouldn’t imagine there would be much, if any, weight savings, the aluminum trailers usually have larger I beams and crossmembers and such than the original trailers, definitely not enough to justify weight savings for tow ratings.
I could be wrong though, I’ve never weighed them.
 
My shorelander was a very good trailer and was very good to me. Given than @txav8r forbit me from dipping it alt water I wanted to have a peace of mind for Florida trips. Not having to worry about forklift logistics was worth the $2,000 for me. Looking. Ice and cool does not hurt either
 
I just order a Continental Aluminum tandem trailer , through Davis Boat trailers in Plant City, Florida $3780 with torsion axels brakes in both axles,
all hardware SS, guide posts and LED tail lights, I research 10 places around Jacksonville, florida and most places they want to "Nickel and dime you... everything is extra, but this places best place and great service...family own business . And the best part you have to worry about adjustment
they AutoCad the trailer for your brand and specifications. and Lifetime warranty.
 
I agree with this. Doesnt sound like.original poster is gonna be hauling all over the place like i was. However i will point out that i sold my old mfi trailer thag needed a lot of work for half of the cost of my aluminum... so its like i got the aluminum for half price.... doesnt help the OP but it makes me smile!

@bronze_10 did you go to a dealer for your trailer? If so which one, chatlee I assume? I am not liking my shorelandr and feel like 10K miles of towing last year justifies the added cost of a aluminum trailer. The stock trailer is fine, in and of its self, but it smokes through tires. Not to mention the hubs and brakes already need replaced and it is a bear to get the boat off the trailer without putting my truck's rear tires halfway into the water.
 
Really !!!!
My shorelinder went from Dallas to lake Powell Dallas to ft Lauderdale and 3 times Dallas to lake ouachita. It had close to 8,000 miles is 4 years and it was in a real good shape when I sold it. The guy who got actually took it to North Carolina to pick up new boat and had zero issues too.
 
I got it from Collins marine in smithfield. It is a 7k aluminum I beam trailer. If u parked the new trailer beside in my case an mfi trailer there is no comparison between the two. My new one is waaaay more robust than my old mfi! The torsion axels and the radial tires make it ride like a dream. Theres o e one thing I would do different. I wouldnt get the folding tongue. They just add the folding part onto where the hitch would normlly be.
 
@bronze_10 i am not sure if I will get tonit this summer but I am planing on converting the brakes to electric over hydraulic and install a folding tongue ( but cuting the tongue shorter before the installation)..... will let you know how it goes ....
 
Be careful... they told me they cant cut too close to where the side ibeam go through or the tongue or it could weaken the ibeam.
 
I remember you mentioned that, but I am don't remember if your tongue is aluminum or steel ? Mine is galvanized steel, so I think yours is the same too, right ? If it is steel, do you remember what justification gave you? I am having a hard time understanding the physics on why the fold away will weaken the IBeam if it is too close! I am suspecting that weight load where the steel tongue is bolted to the side I-Beams should carry the same load if the hitch is 36 inches away from the connection connection ( regardless if there is tongue in between or not).

BTW I found this article that seems to be pretty much identical to our trailers architecture.


 
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