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Anchors & Anchoring

I see so many people just dropping the anchor off the bow and tying it off. Then they come drifting towards me and I have to kick them off my boat. For some reason, they look at me like I am the idiot? Once a guy tied off the boat swim area buoy and dragged it half across the swim area.

Let some rode out folks, it will hold much better. Even a buddy of mine didn’t believe how much “rope” it took as he drifted far from where we started as he was dragging his fluke. Mine held fine.
 
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Can't believe they left off the Navy Anchors here.


I run a 20lb Navy Anchor and I've been consistently impressed with how easily it sets, and how well it holds. It's heavy compared to my Fluke/chain combo, but it just works. 20lb Navy Anchor at Bass Pro.
 
Just a reminder to folks doing a passage in the next few days, either secure and pad it well in the anchor locker or, I would remove it completely, especially on a rough crossing, and store it aft and not in the battery compartment. Nobody wants to see a FLUKE accident, it's happened before.

Fair winds and safe crossing...
 
The most common issue I see people have with almost any anchor is the amount of chain leader installed and rode put out. I'll see someone pull up to the sandbar and drop their fluke anchor with no chain straight down and tie it off to a cleat and wonder why it doesn't hold them when the waves kick up and the hear them complain that that style of anchor is junk.
This little $18 anchor fits nicely in the anchor locker, holds my 23' boat with no issues in the Mississippi River and everywhere else we boat. I upgraded to a larger, longer chain to assist with the holding power of an upcoming trip. In all the chain weighs 10lbs and the anchor itself only weighs 5lbs.
1624276149020.png
 
The most common issue I see people have with almost any anchor is the amount of chain leader installed and rode put out. I'll see someone pull up to the sandbar and drop their fluke anchor with no chain straight down and tie it off to a cleat and wonder why it doesn't hold them when the waves kick up and the hear them complain that that style of anchor is junk.
This little $18 anchor fits nicely in the anchor locker, holds my 23' boat with no issues in the Mississippi River and everywhere else we boat. I upgraded to a larger, longer chain to assist with the holding power of an upcoming trip. In all the chain weighs 10lbs and the anchor itself only weighs 5lbs.
View attachment 154163

Looks like your Healer approves!

When I was a kid and we had our boat, my Dad had a decent length of heavy chain on the Fluke anchor we had, it held in some pretty hellacious winds, if it started to drag he’d let out more rode and it would set and not move. The chain that came with the anchor I bought is far from sufficient. The one I bought is actually to small to fit in the OEM holder, it will be a good secondary / stern anchor, I’m going to get a larger slip style, with your chain set up.

The really nice thing about your slip style is that you can get upwind and it will pull out a lot easier than a non slip style.
 
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The most common issue I see people have with almost any anchor is the amount of chain leader installed and rode put out. I'll see someone pull up to the sandbar and drop their fluke anchor with no chain straight down and tie it off to a cleat and wonder why it doesn't hold them when the waves kick up and the hear them complain that that style of anchor is junk.
This little $18 anchor fits nicely in the anchor locker, holds my 23' boat with no issues in the Mississippi River and everywhere else we boat. I upgraded to a larger, longer chain to assist with the holding power of an upcoming trip. In all the chain weighs 10lbs and the anchor itself only weighs 5lbs.
View attachment 154163

Be sure to lock your clevis pins in with seizing wire. Others use zip ties, but I have seen too many just break. I will be interested to hear how that anchor holds for you in Bimini with all that additional chain.
 
I've had many many encounters with drifting boats with terrible anchor set up and/or technique. They are generally unaware of their surroundings for a while, and clueless on how to fix the situation once it's happening. Not enough rode, Not enough chain, or lack of awareness on how the anchor works. (Slip ring anchor launched multiple times in the wrong configuration, for example.)

When you don't know you don't know.

It makes sense that the sensible, aware folks don't drift into my boat, just because they don't drift, or when they do, they mostly realize it and address it before they hit others.

The best one was the response from a drifter, He's not drifting to me, I'M DRIFTING TO HIM, (along with every other anchored boat) I told him, sorry I can't drift upwind, it's all you! He churns for 5 seconds and has the gotcha! look. crap, time to get moving.
 
The best one was the response from a drifter, He's not drifting to me, I'M DRIFTING TO HIM, (along with every other anchored boat) I told him, sorry I can't drift upwind, it's all you! He churns for 5 seconds and has the gotcha! look. crap, time to get moving.

I get that almost every weekend. My boat is anchored well, anchor line is clearly set with my boat facing into the tide and wind, and some goober is getting closer and closer to me and giving me the old hairy eyeball.
 
Bought a large box anchor (from Slide Anchor) this off-season after the small box anchor that I used early last season on my SX230 struggled holding my new-to-me 242 Limited S. I now use the large off the bow and the small off the stern and that combo is working great so far.

My only question is it appears that you don’t need anchor chain with a box anchor but I left it on the large box anchor and it weighs a ton. I should be able to remove the chain to save some weight, right??
 
This little $18 anchor fits nicely in the anchor locker, holds my 23' boat with no issues in the Mississippi River and everywhere else we boat. I upgraded to a larger, longer chain to assist with the holding power of an upcoming trip. In all the chain weighs 10lbs and the anchor itself only weighs 5lbs.

I like the idea of shaving 10 or so lbs off my anchor setup, especially considering how sensitive my 19ft'er is to front end weight loading. Would really love to find a way to just store the anchor in the stern under the cleanout hatch, but that would require some significant fiberglass work.

I've had such success with the Navy Anchor, and so little success with my Fluke style that I'm really hesitant to change. I did buy some chain, spare line, and clevis pins for the FL trip, however the Navy Anchor worked so well that I never even took it out of the Bass Pro bag I brought it home in. Wondering now if I return the unused Bass Pro items, or if I should rig it up and try it.

How would you say the Fluke does in a less than ideal bottom scenario. Rocky, or debris covered mud as opposed to sand or easier "grappling" bottoms?
 
I was hesitant on the fluke anchor at first but after figuring it out I like it. On the outskirts of our sandbar it's muddy with lots of sticks and I walk out to set the anchor in about 4' of water usually about 30-35' out and it holds well. In the rocky portions of our river if it won't grab I just keep letting more line out until it does grab. Probably overkill but having the 7' of heavier chain on there definitely helps it grab quicker keeping it at the right angle for digging in. I have a 12# navy anchor onboard that I have yet to use. The biggest thing with any anchor is you have to have enough chain to keep it from pulling the anchor itself upwards and have enough rode out so the anchor can properly hold.
 
Just a reminder to folks doing a passage in the next few days, either secure and pad it well in the anchor locker or, I would remove it completely, especially on a rough crossing, and store it aft and not in the battery compartment. Nobody wants to see a FLUKE accident, it's happened before.

Fair winds and safe crossing...
Saturday I moved it to stern storage :thumbsup:
 
Part of the Yamaha JB anchor problem is st00pid Yamaha marketing …. This pic on the accessories front page is prime example of how NOT to deploy an anchor.

E469FB23-1EDD-4FBF-A62D-06392DB84428.jpeg
Totally opposite of the good instructional video by BoatUS. (about to email and shame Yamaha to take this down, it’s dangerous…. Someone here - make some good Memes for this pic)
 
That's kinda how I toss mine, but I spend some time tugging the rope after to make sure it gets straightened out. *shrug*. Yamaha should be flagged for even selling those terrible fenders though, haha.
 
The Yamaha fenders didn't impress me. I had 2 and gave them away.
 
While in Bimini the only time that I had an issue with my fluke anchor was in 15' of water at the Sapona shipwreck. It ended up being that a conch shell was wedged in it and preventing it from grabbing. Once I removed the shell I nosed up to the ship and dropped it straight down, drifted back to where the rode was at around a 45 degree angle and it held. I dove down to inspect and the first foot of the chain was being pulled up by the boat but the remaining 6' was lying on the bottom, helping the anchor grab. I know that quite a few had issues with anchoring there and my guess is that they either did not have any chain or that the chain was too light for the job. I know that most of us are in waters that are not clear enough to see the anchor and sometimes it's hard to tell why it's not holding so this is why I'm posting my experience from when I could actually see what was going on with not only the anchor but the chain and rode.
 
Small box anchor has held for me 99% of the time. The one time it didn't hold was during a 20mph wind, 40' of water, and an all muck bottom.
 
Love my Fortress.... gonna buy another so I have 2. Used my spike anchor in Panama City this past weekend and while it worked fine, I want to have a real anchor.
 
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