Antifreeze in bilge

[James R Whitten]

Having a problem with finding antifreeze in my bilge. First trip of the season took the boat out. Ran it for a while got back to the boat ramp and pulled plug and about half a quart to a quart came out of the bilge. Assumed it came out of the overflow Had to do some work on the boat and went out again this time I paid closer attention to the operating temps. Operating temps rose to about 205 under hard throttle but would fall below 200 immediately after reducing throttle. Pulled drain plug and again fount antifreeze. I'm gonna take it out again and see if I can find any leaks. But the operating temp has me kinda worried. Any ideas?

 

[Luc Lafreniere]

Besides the obvious of making sure the clamps are tight and it's not overfilled, was the coolant changed before this use? If so, was all the air purged as best you can? If it was changed, air can be trapped in there and it can bubble up out of the reservoir. Top it up making sure it's within the markers and it should stop overflowing.

 

[James R Whitten]

No wasn't changed.

 

[Luc Lafreniere]

Then yeah, I'd definitely check your clamps for the cooling system. I doubt it's coming up the reservoir... that normally happens if it's overfilled or it's burping air from the system. If it wasn't touched, then this is unlikely.

 

[James R Whitten]

Those temps aren't too high though? Between 190 and 205?

 

[Luc Lafreniere]

So disclaimer, I am NOT an expert on this subject matter. lol My display on my 165 doesn't even show engine temperature.

BUT I did find this in the maintenance manual when looking at warnings for engine temperatures: "Turns on at 100°C (212°F) on naturally aspirated engines. Turns on at 110°C (230°F) on supercharged engines." So based on this, looks like it's ok. But now you know and presumably it will beep and give you a warning light if it gets too high.

 

[James R Whitten]

Thanks bud. I'm just trying to head off a small problem before it turns into a major problem. I'm gonna climb under the boat and check the ride plate to make sure I have no obstructions at the heat exchanger. And next go round check for leaks at my hoses. Hopefully it's something simple such as a loose hose or faulty radiator cap.

 

[BobJohnson]

I had this issue last season. Ended up I had a loose hose clamp on one of the two hoses connected to the cooling plate. Real pain to get to. Mine being a twin engine the hoses for the plates are in the aft hull corners on each side. You’ll see 2 about 1” hoses directed to the hull. The ride plate has posts that come up through the hull and the hoses attach to them. Good luck finding your leak

 

[ScarabMike]

The clamps are notorious about getting loose. Also, if you spray down your engine and such for rust prevention and maintenance, make sure you use a silicone spray. Some will actually deteriorate the rubber and plastic hoses. Another thing you can do is make sure your antifreeze/coolant mix is good.

 

[Winerocks]

I had this issue over winter storage. Finally got around to checking clamps. It turns out the clamps at the base of the reservoir were loose. There was a small trail of drops just below the main black hose. I tried to tighten the clamps, and they both just skipped teeth. I replaced the stock gear clamps with much more robust stainless clamps, like should have been done at the factory.

 

[Luc Lafreniere]

Hooray! Glad it was simple.

 

[bluefence]

I had this issue as well. Mine was a cracked coolant tank. It was over tightened from the factory, and split where the hose connects to the bottom.