Audio upgrade going great then, not so much. Help!

[Pinhacker71]

I bought demo model Exile towers, cabin speakers, amps, and zone control from Exule audio on Black Friday. Install went wonderfully until. I went to drill hole for the bass control for subwoofer and drilled dead center of bundle of wires. I didn't even notice it until radio wouldn't power on. Boat has 1.5 hrs on it. Any ideas how to join these wires? Space is exceptionally tight for me and the wire loom makes it difficult to isolate the wires I need to strip and solder. Is it possible to take of the front of the console and work from the front? Very upset with myself. I thought I was clear on the backside.

 

[swatski]

I don't know about the X series, but the top of the dash should come off, it is a bit tricky though. If you can crawl into that compartment, you may be able to do it there.
If you did not short anything, I think you should be okay. It sucks! but not too too bad if there is no damage anywhere else.
Are you good with soldering irons? Not an expert but I would separate the bundle, pretty far apart to keep it nice and clean, and solder with heat shrink tubing and a dub of silicone. If you have a marine set, gauge-matched, that would be best.
I would pick up a good quality soldering iron, I like the pistol grip, those are not too expensive and come in handy, will save you a lot of grief.

--

 

[Mainah]

Ouch. Based on the parts diagram and my own time spent cramned into the helm comparment I can say the the dash hood should come iff with just bolts and so should the guage cluster panel.

The way I would cram myself in there is by facing the bow, stick my right leg in, squat and shift my hips right, pull in my left leg, then pivot 180 degrees and sit on a throwable pfd. Make sure your tools will be in reach before doing this.

That us not much slack left in the harness. I would solder in short pieces of new wire. I agree with @swatski on the good quailty iron. It will make a huge difference. If fact something like this will help pinpointing the heat for both the iron and the hot air for the marine shrink tubing.
Zeny 2in1 SMD Hot Air Rework Soldering Iron Station 862D+ Repair Tools 4 Nozzles As Free Gifts https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00W1AG0FG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_qYeAybY3XNZ8W

Please take photos if you remove any dash parts. Good Luck

 

[Murf'n'surf]

The entire dash plate should come out fairly easy. Looks like you'll need to open up that loom and expose all conductors and hopefully create a better area to splice into.

Good luck!

 

[Pinhacker71]

I'm going to try to remove the dash to get better access. Exposing enough wire to get a good splice will be he tricky part. I can't get far enough into the compartment to get really good access.

 

[KXCam22]

Use un-insulated butt splice with heat shrink tubing over top. Dont forget to put on the heat shrink before you do the splice. I often forget. Cam.

 

[David Analog]

You placed a speaker with a painted metal basket on the transom?

 

[KXCam22]

Good catch. Cam

 

[Pinhacker71]

I guess i did. What were the polks that originally came on the boat? Never thought about it really.

 

[tdonoughue]

I think this is actually not as bad as it looks, once you separate out the wires and see which ones are really impacted.

I would bring some extra proper-gauge wire with you, as well. With that tight a connection and with the damage to the wires, you may be better off excising the damaged section and splicing in a new jumper. Will make soldering easier, too. You won't need much, but a 2" new section will give you much more room with which to work and prevent iron damage to the other wires. Yes, you have to then do 2x the number of solders, but that just gives you practice, right?

2x what Cam said about forgetting to put on the @#$#$% shrink tubing before soldering...

 

[Pinhacker71]

The splicing part won't be hard. Getting access is the real problem for me.

 

[txav8r]

Open everything up, the gauge bezel should come off or remove connex and anything else to give yourself room. Cut all the tie wraps that secure the loom over the wire bundle and spread the wiring to expose all damage. If you are not comfortable doing the soldering, and that is the ONLY way I would repair this, hire a radio tech to do it for you. Use waterproof heat shrink to cover. @Pinhacker71 , there's really only one way to do repairs like this, the right way, and the shortcuts. Shortcuts come with follow up repairs, the right way doesn't. And replace all painted pot metal with something rated for marine use. The suggestions are just my opinion...