Battery Diagram - 242 X

[mraz72]

I think I have my batteries wired incorrectly. I cannot run my stereo with just the house battery turned on and parallel and start turned off.

I noticed that last week, just talked to my dealer and he said they are definitely wired incorrectly. I am guessing I am going to look at the wires and not really see what the issue is, is there a diagram or some way to easily know what the deal is?

I guess I would be looking for accessory wires going to the start batter? Maybe I can start with what the start batter setup should be, just the motors?

 

[jcyamaharider]

 

[jcyamaharider]

Another one from a 242X

 

[biffdotorg]

I am going to be doing the same thing with my 242 this weekend. It's working, but everything is on the cranking battery.

What I am going to do is start from the basics. The main red/black going back to the switches are obvious and wrapped in wire loom. This should include the small VSR wires as well. I'm starting there and testing the starting. Then the main wire bundle for the house items should go to the Red/black on the accessory battery. Again, I am going to test the switches and battery meters on the dash.

Then I am going to add my two-bank charger as I can trace those wires back to the onboard charger. From there, all other things should be accesories like the Amp, ship/shore radio and add ons. They will all go to the accessory battery. Then test again for function based on the house or cranking switching being on. That should get me taken care of. And if all are color coded properly (as wired now) I should not see any smoke from the engine bay.

If I get the chance to add one item at a time, I may take the time to label the wires that are not already labeled. A boat of your vintage should actually still have the factory labels on the wires. Look closely.

Good luck!

 

[haknslash]

@jcyamaharider wow that is a lot of spare room in there you could use for bigger ballast bags!! I'd move those batteries into the head compartment and get some bigger bags. Looks like a lot more room could be had.

 

[jcyamaharider]

@jcyamaharider wow that is a lot of spare room in there you could use for bigger ballast bags!! I'd move those batteries into the head compartment and get some bigger bags. Looks like a lot more room could be had.

That isn't my compartment, I have more and bigger batteries in there. no extra room. Plus with the new bag no need for more ballast!

 

[haknslash]

Ah gotcha. In any case if that were my boat I'd move those batteries to make room for more ballast

 

[mraz72]

going to the dock now to see if I can figure this out! Thanks a lot for the pics, they really help....

 

[Julian]

Another one from a 242X

That looks miswired to me. They have connected the amps to the starter battery... Or perhaps the stern battery is their house battery (mine is start battery in the stern most position house in front)

 

[mraz72]

So looking at my wiring it looks correct to me, so now I am starting to wonder if my house battery is dead? That would explain why I need parallel and start on to run the stereo correct?

I have a multimeter, I am going to test the battery when I can get out there, probably tomorrow.

So my next question, if I get a new house battery, should I stick with essentially the same thing or look to improve with an AGM type? I had a 192x prior to the 242x and I added a group 27 AGM battery that I was happy with.

Opinions? Should both batteries be the same technology or similar in any other matter or does it not matter?

For reference, here is my battery wiring...

 

[Julian]

I would go with the largest AGM you can fit.

 

[jcyamaharider]

Look like you are missing a positive connection on the house battery to me.

*edit* Never mind I see it now.

 

[mraz72]

I think another good test, probably check tonight is turn off the house and parallel switches and see if I can start the motors just on the start battery. If that works, then I seriously think I just have a dead house battery. I also have a multi-meter with me, I am going to test the house battery and see what I get.

I purchased my last AGM at sam's club, they had a nice Duracell model that was well priced. Now that that is closed, I'm not sure where to do, looks like west marine, and since they batteries are branded west marine, they aren't going to price match, claiming they are different.

 

[Julian]

I think another good test, probably check tonight is turn off the house and parallel switches and see if I can start the motors just on the start battery. If that works, then I seriously think I just have a dead house battery. I also have a multi-meter with me, I am going to test the house battery and see what I get.

I purchased my last AGM at sam's club, they had a nice Duracell model that was well priced. Now that that is closed, I'm not sure where to do, looks like west marine, and since they batteries are branded west marine, they aren't going to price match, claiming they are different.

I'd check Walmart (same stock on batteries as Sams club) - the usually have decent prices and some marine batteries. Even auto parts stores stock marine batteries....

 

[mraz72]

So got a chance to check things out last night, here is what I found

1. both batteries tested 12.8 volts when using a multimeter, I assume this means both are good?
2. There isn't much to look at from a wiring perspective, the start switch has a positive cable to the start battery and the house switch has a positive cable to the house battery, there are a few other positive cables and they are all on the house battery
3. If I leave house and parallel switchs off, I can start the motors but my connext screen is off, which I assume is normal since my house battery is off?
4. If I leave the start and parallel switchs off, I can't do anything and I don't have power to my connext screen

Questions
1. the battery that the negatives are connected to shouldn't matter correct? I did try to move them around last night and it didn't change anything.
2. If you have just the house battery on, it should power on the connext screen correct?
3. could the dealer have goofed something up at the switch? Anyone know if that comes prewired from Yamaha or the dealer installs the switch and wires it?

At this point, unless anyone has any ideas I am going to call the dealer and see if they can help. It looks like things are correct from the switch to the batteries so I am not sure what else I can do.

 

[jcyamaharider]

12.8 yes both are good

You should have power to the screen when the house is on

The negatives will not matter because you have ground loop

If your boat was fine last year and then this year it is not I would say something happened in between and not from the factory.

 

[mraz72]

I don't think I ever tested it last year, that's why I am not sure. I think I might have always had both battery switches on.

 

[jcyamaharider]

I always run with both on also, just not in parallel.

 

[Matt Phillips]

I have a group 27 start and a 31 House Battery squeezed into my 242. Both are AGMs.

One tip I always do that helps me is when removing the batteries in the fall, I use 4 zip ties and tie all of the cables together by post. So anything connected to the + house battery gets a zip tie holding them together, anything on the - gets another. I've found it really helps connect things back EXACTLY the way they came off in the spring.

 

[jcyamaharider]

I have a group 27 start and a 31 House Battery squeezed into my 242. Both are AGMs.

One tip I always do that helps me is when removing the batteries in the fall, I use 4 zip ties and tie all of the cables together by post. So anything connected to the + house battery gets a zip tie holding them together, anything on the - gets another. I've found it really helps connect things back EXACTLY the way they came off in the spring.

LOL.....I will raise your group 27 and 31 for one group 24 and 2 group 29's under the seat. That was not fun!