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Before I start drilling holes... let me ask you.

W3bexec

Jet Boat Junkie
Messages
215
Reaction score
232
Points
147
Location
Greeley, CO 80634
Boat Make
Yamaha
Year
2018
Boat Model
AR
Boat Length
24
Hey all, I have plenty of experience with wood and metal but not much with fiberglass. I'm getting ready to start drilling some of my first holes on the inside the boat. I'm doing the @wallacerb cut up shoe hanger in the head compartment storage idea. I'm starting to question, what area's are safe to drill into, what are not, and how deep can you go? Do I need to pilot every time? Can I use stainless self tapping?

Littered throughout the threads I've seen people using things like cutting boards, starboard (wow, expensive!), or carpet covered marine plywood as backing. I assume they are epoxying or securing that stuff somehow but I am not sure. Also, not certain where its needed and where its not.

I guess I need someone to please explain to me like I am 5 with some of this. I'd rather step back and ask then be stuck with an ugly mistake.
 
For any hole in fiberglass, especially gelcoat covered fiberglass - you absolutely want a pilot hole that is just slightly smaller than the screw you plan to use. Cover the surface with painters tape before you drill. You also want to chamfer the hole a smidge before you place the screw (I use a bit like this). All of this prevents the fiberglass and gelcoat from cracking or chipping. Not super important for inside the head, but good process to use anywhere you're drilling in the boat. A self tapping screw without a pilot will nearly always leave an ugly result.

As for where is safe and how deep, measure 47 times and drill once. Take a look to see what is behind what you're drilling, and be super super careful anywhere near the hull.
 
I only used screws on the left and right sides of the head area.. never on the back( side of the boat).. the right side of the head (back of front seat) has plywood in between. 1/4 to 1/2 screw stainless is all you need and wont penetrate the seat back. Depending on the year of your boat the same concept applies.. if you have a 2014 or newer the storage area will get in the way so be careful working around it.... I have seen people use heavy duty velcro instead of screws to hold shelves up.. that felt lining that's inside of the head works as the other half of velcro and holds alot more than you think.
 
(Who has that picture of the screws run through the hull? It is a good time to post it.)
 
I only used screws on the left and right sides of the head area.. never on the back( side of the boat).. the right side of the head (back of front seat) has plywood in between. 1/4 to 1/2 screw stainless is all you need and wont penetrate the seat back. Depending on the year of your boat the same concept applies.. if you have a 2014 or newer the storage area will get in the way so be careful working around it.... I have seen people use heavy duty velcro instead of screws to hold shelves up.. that felt lining that's inside of the head works as the other half of velcro and holds alot more than you think.

Thanks Rob. The first area I am doing is the left (passenger seat side) to hang the shoe hanger. A little concerned about drilling through to the bar and lockable glove. Any thoughts? No plans to touch the back or side area.
 
For any hole in fiberglass, especially gelcoat covered fiberglass - you absolutely want a pilot hole that is just slightly smaller than the screw you plan to use. Cover the surface with painters tape before you drill. You also want to chamfer the hole a smidge before you place the screw (I use a bit like this). All of this prevents the fiberglass and gelcoat from cracking or chipping. Not super important for inside the head, but good process to use anywhere you're drilling in the boat. A self tapping screw without a pilot will nearly always leave an ugly result.

Thanks Sean. Will pilot, tape cover, and chamfer.
 
Thanks Rob. The first area I am doing is the left (passenger seat side) to hang the shoe hanger. A little concerned about drilling through to the bar and lockable glove. Any thoughts? No plans to touch the back or side area.
Just be careful.. if you happen to drill through it, take the screws out and replace with stainless bolts and nuts... it'll look cleaner... lol!!!
 
You can dril on the far side of that area as it is a piece of plywood. But you can't drill the near side without risking going through into the other side. All I did was to use the existing bolt ends to secure the near side of my shoe hangars. I even added coat hooks on the bolts for hanging lines, bottle openers etc.
 
You can dril on the far side of that area as it is a piece of plywood. But you can't drill the near side without risking going through into the other side. All I did was to use the existing bolt ends to secure the near side of my shoe hangars. I even added coat hooks on the bolts for hanging lines, bottle openers etc.
Would love to see pics of this...! As I know I don’t have near as much room; I’m to the point we really need to organize the compartment better in ours...
 
A lot of good ideas here. https://jetboaters.net/threads/head-storage-modifications.1172/ I posted on page 6. It still looks cluttered, but it is organized clutter. I bought some K-bar from Lowes and screwed it to the fore and aft bulkheads in the locker, they were both 1/2" plywood covered with carpet. I did the @txav8r table holder mod. I like the quick access to it now. Put the bow filler cushion on the shelf where the table was. Secured it with paracord that doubles as a towel hanger. The aft wall of the locker has a "shoe hanger" attached to the k-bar holding lots of stuff. I also mounted a BlueSea 6 ckt. Fuse panel in the corner on the aft wall. Not seen.
20170610_081136_001.jpg
In this pic. you can see the VHF antenna wire exiting the tower mtg. base and leading aft to the VHF mounted above.
20180503_133428.jpgMounted the panel here due to its proximity to the battery, and the VHF and Hummingbird mounted above. And it is a quick run thru the ski locker to the helm locker to power the amp and trim tabs.
 
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For the shoe storage, I jest used the over the door hangers that came with it and put them over the board.[flag]
 
I did the @txav8r table holder mod.

I REALLY like this mod idea! It would be great to get that cumbersome monstrosity out of the way.

However after a search I still can't find the original posting showing how it was done.
@txav8r please let me know how you did that install. It's already on my list of mods to perform. - thank you
 
I REALLY like this mod idea! It would be great to get that cumbersome monstrosity out of the way.

However after a search I still can't find the original posting showing how it was done.
@txav8r please let me know how you did that install. It's already on my list of mods to perform. - thank you
It is here, same link I copied above. Starts on page 1. https://jetboaters.net/threads/head-storage-modifications.1172/ He gives details on how to modify the table holder and where to place it.
 
@Bennie , unfortunately, the ‘15 doesn’t come with the same little box mounted in the sidewall ledge, that the ‘07-‘09 had. So modifying the box wasn’t possible on my ‘12. The wall to the right side of the head compartment (backside of the isle wall on tr right of door), is narrower, and won’t allow the table to stand vertically there, without protruding into the doorway opening. But if the protrusion is of no consequence to you, you can build a small box out of 1/2” pvc board, and mount it to the floor, in which to hold the table as we did in the ‘08. Good luck, post pics!
 
For the shoe storage, I jest used the over the door hangers that came with it and put them over the board.[flag]
That is how I did it....then I went to bimini, and the over the door hangar snapped on one side. So I upgraded to what is above.
 
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