BEP Help Needed

[NJboater]

With all of my switches turned to the off position, the BEP light is still on. Anyone know if this is an issue or why this is happening? I don’t recall it doing this last season (prior to upgrades)

Could it be the house batteries charging each other to be at equal voltage or the house charging the start battery?

some things to note:
-2 house batteries (in parallel) & 1 start battery
-2nd house battery added this season
-NOCO charger is hooked to + on house #1 and - on house #2 but is not plugged into power
-everything else is wired the same as last season with the exception of an additional set of wires on the house battery for a new stereo
-all other electronics, including stereo, function perfectly

 

[FSH 210 Sport]

I think you will find this useful.

https://www.bepmarine.com/-/media/inriver/710-140A_INSTR_BEP.pdf?modified=20230328095440

Many threads here about how to put the DVSR in storage mode when the boat is parked. One way is to cut the red wire as explained in the linked document above and then connect the wire to the switched side of the house or start battery switch.

 

[NJboater]

I think you will find this useful.

https://www.bepmarine.com/-/media/inriver/710-140A_INSTR_BEP.pdf?modified=20230328095440

Many threads here about how to put the DVSR in storage mode when the boat is parked. One way is to cut the red wire as explained in the linked document above and then connect the wire to the switched side of the house or start battery switch.

Sounds like this will solve my problem but create a new one (ignition must be switched on to activate DVSR etc). I am moreso trying to understand why the light is actually on. Searches have told me it may be residual voltage and it’ll eventually turn off…but not sure. Will check it tomorrow morning

 

[FSH 210 Sport]

Sounds like this will solve my problem but create a new one (ignition must be switched on to activate DVSR etc). I am moreso trying to understand why the light is actually on. Searches have told me it may be residual voltage and it’ll eventually turn off…but not sure. Will check it tomorrow morning

If you read that document you’ll understand that the light doesn’t turn off until the battery voltages drop to 12.7 So if you measure the house and start batteries you’ll probably find the voltage is over 12.7 and that means that the dvsr is working as designed.

And no the ignition doesn’t have to be the source if you do it the way I explained in my previous post you can set it up so that it becomes active when you turn on your battery switches when you are going to use your boat. Or you can just leave it how it is and it will work that way.

Look at post #26 in this thread.

DVSR help...

If you do the “engines on” mod vs. installing a switch on the dvsr ground wire will that eliminate the ability of the solar panel to trickle charge the batteries while at anchor? I don’t see how the switch on the ground would effect it. With the switch on its the same as not having it. When...

jetboaters.net

 

[bobholthaus]

@FSH 210 Sport: Any chance the DVSR could stay on all winter and run my Start battery down to 8v? I know I had the little black wire on the Start battery instead of the house battery. I posted in another thread yesterday (post #4 of the following):

House Battery Dying Fast

Have a 2023 AR250, first boat I’ve ever owned. This is the first time I’ve prepped for the season after winterizing. I reconnected the batteries myself. I noticed immediately the house was running at 11.4, and the cranking battery was at 12.4 like usual. I ran the boat for probably 3-4 hours to...

jetboaters.net

NJBoater: My light was on too when I first showed up to the boat, which now makes sense because it was on the charger (dual bank ProMariner) and therefore at least one of the two batteries was over 12.7v, which would cause it to stay on until one of them dropped below that.

 

[FSH 210 Sport]

@FSH 210 Sport: Any chance the DVSR could stay on all winter and run my Start battery down to 8v? I know I had the little black wire on the Start battery instead of the house battery. I posted in another thread yesterday (post #4 of the following):

House Battery Dying Fast

Have a 2023 AR250, first boat I’ve ever owned. This is the first time I’ve prepped for the season after winterizing. I reconnected the batteries myself. I noticed immediately the house was running at 11.4, and the cranking battery was at 12.4 like usual. I ran the boat for probably 3-4 hours to...

jetboaters.net

NJBoater: My light was on too when I first showed up to the boat, which now makes sense because it was on the charger (dual bank ProMariner) and therefore at least one of the two batteries was over 12.7v, which would cause it to stay on until one of them dropped below that.

No, not by design anyway. If the DVSR had remained Closed both batteries would have been at 8V. If both your batteries were hooked up to a two bank charger and one battery was dead then there is a problem with your charger. Does that make sense?

You need to read the link in post #2 of this thread on how the DVSR operates.

 

[bobholthaus]

No, not by design anyway. If the DVSR had remained Closed both batteries would have been at 8V. If both your batteries were hooked up to a two bank charger and one battery was dead then there is a problem with your charger. Does that make sense?

You need to read the link in post #2 of this thread on how the DVSR operates.

Makes total sense. I was thinking that maybe the LED light stayed on, but if so, it would have then been open and both batteries would have gone down together. ’m wondering where my parasitic draw is coming from on that start battery when the boat was covered on a hoist under a roof all winter long!

The “issue” was that the charger was “unplugged” in that the male end of the retractable extension cord that is plugged in by my hoist box on the dock needed to be wiggled. First time in 4 years. So, being that it wasn’t charging either battery, the start battery had some kind of parasitic draw that took it down to 8v. Next winter, I’ll take the wiring off both batteries, so that in the event that this would happen again, there is nothing drawing the batteries down and hopefully they’d just sit there and not discharge too much. It was an oversite on my behalf.

And now that you point it out, clearly the DSVR was functional in that it kept them split apart.

thank you!

 

[FSH 210 Sport]

Well flooded lead acid batteries discharge at a pretty high rate depending on how cold / warm it is. The warmer it is the faster it will self discharge.

If you install a Victron smart shunt on the house battery you can see the house battery voltage and state of charge and the start battery voltage via a Bluetooth app standing next to the boat.

Chalk it up to experience and move on. You will need a new start battery though.

 

[bobholthaus]

Yeah, that’s what I thought. I have one lined up in my local batteries plus to pick up this weekend. There’s a little hope in me that that AGM will hold a charge after being on the charger this week, but it’s just a small amount of hope. I’m guessing your response, and the fact that it went to 8 V, is that I killed it.

so that I know for next winter, can I just takeoff the positive leads of the batteries, or do I also need to take off all of the negative leads as well? Each of my two batteries only has one or two wires going to the positive terminal while there are seven wires or so coming off the negative. Would be a lot easier for me to just undo the positive and wrap them in electrical tape to ensure they didn’t touch anything. thoughts? Thanks again.

 

[FSH 210 Sport]

I’d just leave them on a smart charger during winter. Plug in the charger and check it once a month.