Bilge pump cycling. Normal?

[GoVols01]

I've had my '17 212X about 5 weeks now and have been to the lake each weekend. Neither of my last 2 runabouts ever had the bilge run while I was on the water and I never got a drop out of the plug when the boats were pulled from the lake.

We were anchored out and swimming around the boat yesterday and we noticed the bilge would belch out a bunch of water about every 10 minutes or so. I can't tell you the exact amount of water, but the bilge would run for ~10 seconds and then shut off again. This can't be normal. Where the heck is the water getting in at? I plugged the anchor locker drain hole from the outside, so that is not a source of water.

Another thing I've noticed: the clean-out ports are always full of water. Is it normal for water to get forced past the clean out plug? While stopped and motors are off, I'll pull the clean-out plugs out and let the water drain off the top of them. I'll install them properly and get them locked into place again, but once I run the engines, there's water on top of them again next time I check.

 

[swatski]

Another thing I've noticed: the clean-out ports are always full of water. Is it normal for water to get forced past the clean out plug? While stopped and motors are off, I'll pull the clean-out plugs out and let the water drain off the top of them. I'll install them properly and get them locked into place again, but once I run the engines, there's water on top of them again next time I check.

That's normal, I always get water on top of the cleanout plugs when towing. The cleanout hatch tray is not sealed well so any water blowing past cleanout plugs may enter the bilge (most of it will drain through the drain hose, but mine was kinked from factory so it was not draining). Also, if you are heavily ballasted, the rub rail leaks like a sieve. And if your cleats get under - you will have a lot of water getting in.
And the list goes on.

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[GoVols01]

But I'm leaking even while anchored. Rub rails nor the cleats are under the waterline.

 

[swatski]

But I'm leaking even while anchored. Rub rails nor the cleats are under the waterline.

Well, welcome to the club - several through hull fittings in the stern have a tendency to leak, too...

@MrMoose has developed a special protocol which involves magic potions, baby powder, and force field. He tracks all those pesky leaks down and zaps them dry.

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[Matt Phillips]

That's normal. My 232 could be bone dry...all until one started wake boarding behind it, then the bilge pump would run on occasion. I notice the 242 pumps more water than the 232 ever did...I attribute this to the lower swim deck and whenever there's ballast in the boat, water will roll up to the upper -step and that's where it's likely getting in.

I should pop that hatch out though and check the drain hose...it wouldn't surprise me if it's kinked.

and water on top of the clean out tubes is also normal. nothing to worry about there.

 

[MrMoose]

But I'm leaking even while anchored. Rub rails nor the cleats are under the waterline.

Your deck drain's thru-hull fitting (located on the transom below the swim deck) could be leaking. Your drive shafts could be leaking. If you're going to try to track down the leak(s), you'll need to start with a dry boat. Your clean-out tray probably leaks too (water that makes its way past the plugs, and water that splashes up through the tray drain will leak into the transom bilge area below the clean-out tray).
Remove the drain plug on a tilted driveway, with the bow raised as high as possible. Via the clean-out access hatch, take a rag and mop up any water that is remaining in the bottom of the bilge.
Once it's dry, take some talcum powder and puff it into the areas that you suspect may be the sources of your leaks. Drop it into the water and look for tracks in the powder. Good luck @GoVols01

 

[jdonalds]

20% of the time my boat is dry at the end of the day. 80% of the time about a gallon or two drains from the transom.

I didn't like the bilge pump on a timer. I think that's a dumb design. I changed to a simple Rule pump and added a Water Witch electronic switch. I also don't trust float switches.

 

[GoVols01]

I didn't like the bilge pump on a timer. I think that's a dumb design. I changed to a simple Rule pump and added a Water Witch electronic switch. I also don't trust float switches.

My last 2 Regals had float bilges. I never heard or saw either of them run b/c the boat didn't have a single leak.

 

[jdonalds]

My last 2 Regals had float bilges. I never heard or saw either of them run b/c the boat didn't have a single leak.

My problem with floats is they can get stuck and not float.

 

[geohil]

But I'm leaking even while anchored. Rub rails nor the cleats are under the waterline.

If you had a couple people in the bow that puts the anchor compartment drain below water. Not sure who designed that but after this last weekend I'm going to put a plug in that drain. We had the same issue this weekend - just listening to music at anchor and the bilge lights up at least once an hour.

 

[MrMoose]

Regarding the anchor locker leaking, there are a few threads on the topic. @OUT ON THE REEF was the first to highlight the issue on his FSH, which then caused the rest of us to look at our own boats.
Here's one of the threads:
https://jetboaters.net/threads/anchor-locker-leaks-in-models-with-current-hull.12266/#post-212021

 

[Kevin M]

My bilge almost never comes on. A couple weeks ago, we were anchored in a cove and my buddy said your boat is peeing. I looked over and saw water coming out of the bilge. I was surprised since thats the first time I have ever seen it pump water out after sitting for a while. I'm guessing I picked up water while unloading (my son likes to fly backwards and push the boat off the trailer) so I probably picked up a bunch there. I checked all the fittings and did not see any water anywhere. It did not do again for the remainder of the day.

 

[octavio3311]

While surfing last week up in Lake Winnipesaukee- I noticed an AR240 doing the same thing in the same cove as us.
We had 6 people and ballast tanks full in my boat. All people were towards the back - my bilge never came on - not till the end for a few seconds when we were done. My transom was down deep and my bow was up.
The 240 had no ballast and 12 people in it - 5 of them were in the bow - his rooster was spraying up and his bow was slammed. His bilge wouldn't stop pumping water - it was constant.
I pulled up to him to let him know. And he was like "Yeah so!"
Ok then - carry on!

 

[RiverRat]

I had that happen on my 192 the first season I had it. Bilge would kick on every 5-10 minutes, run for 10-15 seconds and shut off. I looked down into the bilge through the clean out access hatches, sure enough I could see a steady stream of water coming in at one of the transom drain plugs(19 footers have two.) Turns out you have to be sure to get the plugs in right, or the o ring won't seal properly.

 

[Julian]

One thing I found when I got my boat was that the drain plug was leaking due to all te debris in the bilge preventing a good seal. Rinse out the bilge and make sure there isn't crap in the threads when you are inserting the drain plug.

 

[geohil]

One thing I found when I got my boat was that the drain plug was leaking due to all te debris in the bilge preventing a good seal. Rinse out the bilge and make sure there isn't crap in the threads when you are inserting the drain plug.

Now this is very true. I cannot believe how much fiberglass and metal shavings were in my bilge. Even after washing as many out as possible I still find chunks waiting at the plug every trip to the lake. I keep cleaning them out but I do fear my bilge pump will suck one up and cease to work without my knowledge. Anyone have a bilge pump fail from debris?

 

[Julian]

Anyone have a bilge pump fail from debris?

I've not as most have a screen...that you should clean at least annually.

 

[danclemo]

Mine was dry as dessert until I had a clean out plug blow-out. During the blow-out it must have flexed the tube that leads the cleanout port (the one you reach into to get to the plug). After that I was taking on water even sitting still, the bilge was dumping out water periodically. I tool the back swim-deck cover off (12 plus screws and silicone) and resealed the clean-out tube real well as well as the cover when I put it back on. I actually put TWO hose clamps on the bottom of the tube instead of the stock ONE. Now I haven't seen so much as a drop of water in this boat for a month, the bilge has never so much as spit water out. So basically, I would check the Black clean-out tube and swim deck for proper sealing, I've hear they come with crappy seal from factory anyhow so they were on my list to re-seal. The blow-out just made me do it quicker.

 

[GoVols01]

Agree about the single hose clamps on all hoses. My Sailabration houseboat was built with 2 hose clamps on every through-hull. I think my Regals even had 2 on each. I was pretty surprised to see only 1 hose clamp on everything, especially considering how dang big the clean-out port tubes are and the amount of pressure they're potentially holding. I know that my clean-out ports are likely the cause of the water in my hull, as they're full of water every time I open the hatch. I checked the clamps on those giant tubes and they seem pretty tight, but probably too high on the sealing surface. I may try adjusting those, but reaching them will require my arm to grow another elbow - not easy!

 

[danclemo]

Agree about the single hose clamps on all hoses. My Sailabration houseboat was built with 2 hose clamps on every through-hull. I think my Regals even had 2 on each. I was pretty surprised to see only 1 hose clamp on everything, especially considering how dang big the clean-out port tubes are and the amount of pressure they're potentially holding. I know that my clean-out ports are likely the cause of the water in my hull, as they're full of water every time I open the hatch. I checked the clamps on those giant tubes and they seem pretty tight, but probably too high on the sealing surface. I may try adjusting those, but reaching them will require my arm to grow another elbow - not easy!

You need to remove the plastic swim storage cover, it has about 12 screws holding it down. It' s seems scary, but really it's pretty simple. You can then get to the clean-out hose and remove it, re-seal it with marine silicone and double clamp it. Then you can reseal the swim storage cover properly since it is usually sealed poorly from the factory and another place you get water. I also removed the TWO swim storage access hole covers (the two twist caps to get in there) and re-sealed them via advice on the forum.

Total cost was about $15 (hose clamp and 2 tubes of Marine Silicone) and took me about 4 hours (that's to do it right), most that time was just removing old silicone from swim storage cover before re-sealing. Again, I don't get a single drop of water in this boat now so it's worth it if you have a few hours.