Bilge pump not working

[Sccala]

Wondering if anybody can help me here.… I have a 2011 242 Limited. I noticed first thing this spring, that my bilge pump wasn’t working. I’ve been using a handheld unit for the past month.… Not like I need much pumping anyway. But whatever.I still want it to work. I pulled it off of the mounting plate with those clips on the side. I checked to see if there was any kind of interference with the impeller. There’s not. The screen has been cleaned off as well. But when I turn the switch on at the dash, it does not pump. Do bilge pumps go bad? Or is it maybe a blown fuse?

 

[Acard7]

Could test the wires to the bilge pump with the switch on to see if it’s getting power. If it’s getting power from the wires then yes the bilge pump is probably toast!

 

[Dave burke]

Is it original? I replace mine every 8-10 years or so. The bilge on my 2017 went bad last year. Like @Acard7 says, check the wires with a DMM first just in case.

 

[Murf'n'surf]

Get yourself a multimeter and see if you have 12v dc at the pump. Sometimes the shaft gets stuck, try to spin the propeller with a screw driver and then turn it on. Your bilge fuse breaker is at the helm area if you want to push it to try and reset it.

 

[FSH 210 Sport]

Did you check fuses / breaker ?

 

[Sccala]

Did you check fuses / breaker ?

I haven’t. Not sure where the fuse is located. Someone else said under helm area. I’ll check tomorrow morning.

 

[Sccala]

Get yourself a multimeter and see if you have 12v dc at the pump. Sometimes the shaft gets stuck, try to spin the propeller with a screw driver and then turn it on. Your bilge fuse breaker is at the helm area if you want to push it to try and reset it.

I have a multimeter, but how do I test the wires? When it comes to electrical, I turn into a toddler. So, treat me as such as you explain what to do lol

 

[David Martin]

Its in the engine compartment just behind the engines bolted to the fiberglass transom wall. It the large plastic screw cap on the ECM computer under the round cap is the fuse box...........there should be a puller and even a few spare fuses also.

Hope this helps

 

[Julian]

Its in the engine compartment just behind the engines bolted to the fiberglass transom wall. It the large plastic screw cap on the ECM computer under the round cap is the fuse box...........there should be a puller and even a few spare fuses also.

Hope this helps

Pretty sure the fuses in the ECU (engine control unit) are only for engine operations and not the bilge. The bilge is typically fused or circuit breaker controlled at the helm. There may also be a fuse at the battery.

 

[Julian]

I have a multimeter, but how do I test the wires? When it comes to electrical, I turn into a toddler. So, treat me as such as you explain what to do lol

Follow the wires back from the pump, my GUESS is that there will be a clip connector on that line to make swapping out the pump easy. Undo the connector and insert your multimeter into the wires coming from the boat side and see if you get voltage. If no voltage, then you have a power issue to the pump.

 

[drewkaree]

Pretty sure the fuses in the ECU (engine control unit) are only for engine operations and not the bilge. The bilge is typically fused or circuit breaker controlled at the helm. There may also be a fuse at the battery.

The little round things have fuses behind them. It may be for the switch and/or light, and if so, then you have a line to trace for power

 

[Julian]

The little round things have fuses behind them. It may be for the switch and/or light, and if so, then you have a line to trace for power


View attachment 223009

Those are typically breaker buttons.....yours are fuses?

I was referencing his comment that the OP should check the fuses under the round caps on the ECU.

 

[drewkaree]

Those are typically breaker buttons.....yours are fuses?

I was referencing his comment that the OP should check the fuses under the round caps on the ECU.

I gotcha.

I haven't had to use them or check them, but they're the same as some dash fuses in some of the trucks I drove for Pepsi, so I just assumed they were fuses behind there. Round 5 amp or 2.5's were what were typically in them.

I'll have to give them a closer look in a bit

 

[drewkaree]

As I'm looking at my own Pic, I noticed that those aren't the little knurled rings around them like the fuse holders have.

 

[Murf'n'surf]

Typically, if your bilge switch lights up, then you have 12v dc flowing to the device.

 

[Sccala]

UPDATE….bought a new pump and that’s all it was! ?. Sometimes we overthink, don’t we?

 

[drewkaree]

UPDATE….bought a new pump and that’s all it was! ?. Sometimes we overthink, don’t we?

No.

Throwing money at parts that don't require replacement would result in needing to do all the things you requested our help to figure out.

You didn't mention doing any of those things, so if your buying a new pump didn't solve the problem, you would still have to do those things, or pay them done.

It's not overthinking things in this case, it's basic troubleshooting, which you were lucky to avoid.

I get your relief, but count yourself lucky, and now take a look at what was recommended for when it's required. Now you can learn at a more relaxed pace without stress.

 

[Sccala]

No.

Throwing money at parts that don't require replacement would result in needing to do all the things you requested our help to figure out.

You didn't mention doing any of those things, so if your buying a new pump didn't solve the problem, you would still have to do those things, or pay them done.

It's not overthinking things in this case, it's basic troubleshooting, which you were lucky to avoid.

I get your relief, but count yourself lucky, and now take a look at what was recommended for when it's required. Now you can learn at a more relaxed pace without stress.

Relax man.. jeez. I literally took the first recommendation that somebody made after my initial post. Tested the wire. It got a reading so I bought a pump. And yes, I ignored all the other suggestions because the very first one solved the problem. Sorry if it seemed like I caused you to waste your time by replying to things that I didn’t need to try.?

 

[drewkaree]

Relax man.. jeez. I literally took the first recommendation that somebody made after my initial post. Tested the wire. It got a reading so I bought a pump. And yes, I ignored all the other suggestions because the very first one solved the problem. Sorry if it seemed like I caused you to waste your time by replying to things that I didn’t need to try.?

I pointed out understanding your relief, and even went so far as to offer you MORE advice for future events. Go back and reread what I said, and let me know where I went off the rails

There's no stating that you were wasting our time, nor was I upset - why would I suggest, going forward, learning at a relaxed pace, if you had done any of these things?

I guess there does seem to be some overthinking somewhere. ?‍

 

[Sccala]

Whether you realize it or not, or admit it or not, your reply to my mentioning that I had resolved the problem was laced with snark, sarcasm, and a slight contrarian attitude towards my positive resolve. Most people would simply say, “Sweet. Glad you figured it out”. But you gave a mild and abbreviated lecture instead. I’m moving on. Cheers to all.