Bilge pump

[Noko]

I 'm adding a second bilge pump with a float switch. I'd like to put it near the original one. How can I secure the new pump to the boat, adhesive or screws? I'd like to use screws but I'm wondering what length? I heard 3M 5200 silicone is good but I haven't seen that anywhere.

 

[Gym]

I 'm adding a second bilge pump with a float switch. I'd like to put it near the original one. How can I secure the new pump to the boat, adhesive or screws? I'd like to use screws but I'm wondering what length? I heard 3M 5200 silicone is good but I haven't seen that anywhere.

People have used 4200 or 5200 for attaching a second pump. Are you running a new bilge hose through the hull?

 

[Big Shasta]

I replaced my OEM with a Rule 750. Water sensing, no external switch required. but it doesn't have to kick on and check for water like the stock one did (dumbest design ever) I test mine before my annual lake vacation every year and it's been great for at least 3 years now.

Gym asks a good question. If they both had to come on, you don't really want them both trying to push water through the same small hose....it will really limit their effectiveness.

Do you keep the boat in the water or are you normally with the boat if it's floating? Maybe a high water alarm in the bilge would be better. Then you could always keep a pump onboard that could clip on the battery terminals with a hose you could throw over the side...options.

 

[Ronnie]

I would not use screws to install anything if it is going to be at the bottom of the bilge, out hulls are not that thick so there is a higher risk that a screw will go all the way through the hull and out the bottom. 5200 is very strong, 4200 (available at Home Depot, walmart, etc.) would work just fine as would life chalk or just about any epoxy.

If you are just putting in a back up pump should the stock one fail I think using the same output hose should be fine but if you want an independent system to supplement the stock system I think a separate hose is in order.

Thankfully I haven't taken on so much water that I'd be concerned with putting in another pump but I will probably replace the stock pump next year with a similar one but with the ability to turn it on and off manually instead of just wait for it to kick on and test for water resistance. I just realized that I will need to replace the switch at the helm to do this as well.

 

[Noko]

As always, good advice. I really enjoy this forum and the help I get. Thanks for the info on using a separate hose. I am planning on using a separate hose. I'm adding a backup pump just for comfort. My boat sits in the water and sometimes I forget to turn the OEM pump on after I tie the boat up. Its a pain to have to crawl under the cover and turn it on or to try to remember if the pump is switched on.

Thanks again for the help, Derek

 

[Bruce]

Here is my install write up.

https://jetboaters.net/threads/installing-second-bilge-pump-in-yamaha-sx230.1889/

 

[Big Shasta]

If you replace yours with the rule 750 like I did, it doesn't run unless there is water to be pumped so it's not a threat to drain your battery. I wired it direct to the battery with a fuseable link and I now don't have to worry about remembering to turn it on....fully automatic if the battery has power. I was always worried I'd forget ...no longer a fear. And it's true, if you want redundancy, put in a second straight to the battery but use the same outlet....you would definitely be good to go.

 

[Noko]

@Bruce ,@Big Shasta , Thanks for the info. Bruce, I appreciate the link. I'm adding a Johnson 1,000gph with a float switch direct wired to the battery.

 

[Murf'n'surf]

If you don't want to use a stubby 3/8" screw, use an epoxy to mount the bilge strainer basket to the hull. I wouldn't go with caulking or 5200-- I've seen both let go due to dirty surfaces at install and petroleum in the bilge. You want 100% confidence in your pump being secure to the hull forever. Most bilge manufacturers keep the same basket design for years, so a replacement in 5 years will pop right into the epoxied mount.

 

[Noko]

Go

If you don't want to use a stubby 3/8" screw, use an epoxy to mount the bilge strainer basket to the hull. I wouldn't go with caulking or 5200-- I've seen both let go due to dirty surfaces at install and petroleum in the bilge. You want 100% confidence in your pump being secure to the hull forever. Most bilge manufacturers keep the same basket design for years, so a replacement in 5 years will pop right into the epoxied mount.

Gotcha. Thanks.

 

[eticket]

@Murf'n'surf , sorry to revive an old thread but wanted to get your inputs on joining a plastic pump base to a gel coat surface using epoxy. I bought some marine epoxy shown below and plan to scuff both surfaces with rough sandpaper, then clean with MEK and clamp for 24H, hoping that will allow a good bond. I might add some very small screws but there is not much room until I get to the outer shell of the boat so I would rather not. Do you suggest any other steps?

 

[Julian]

Pretty sure the current pump is screwed down....I'd back out one of those screws and match it.

 

[eticket]

Pretty sure the current pump is screwed down....I'd back out one of those screws and match it.

Yes there are screws in the stock pump but I don't have room to mount the larger second pump in that same spot (Johnson 800 with integrated switch). I am going to have to go further outboard or further forward.

 

[Murf'n'surf]

I have epoxied many pumps. Use a quick set epoxy in a dab the size of a .50 cent piece. Hold the pump strainer basket there for a little while or just use masking tape --- it won't take long. I prefer to epoxy them because the screw let's water into the fiberglass no matter how well you seal it.

 

[eticket]

I have epoxied many pumps. Use a quick set epoxy in a dab the size of a .50 cent piece. Hold the pump strainer basket there for a little while or just use masking tape --- it won't take long. I prefer to epoxy them because the screw let's water into the fiberglass no matter how well you seal it.

Thanks, will give it a shot tomorrow and post up my results!

 

[eticket]

The epoxy worked great! I roughed up both the pump and bilge surfaces, cleaned both with MEK and then slathered on enough epoxy that it oozed out and also up the three mounting holes. I taped it in place and let it sit for 24 hours. Today it is rock solid!

 

[Hezi]

So my friend last season forgot to close the drain plug on his 242 Limited S and by the time he realized that, both motors stopped. He had to jump into the water and screw the plug back in. This was a $10k mistake. He had to replace both engines to new. I just got my 2015 242 Limited S and I just bought a "ATTWOOD SAHARA S1100 1100 GPH 12V AUTOMATIC MARINE BILGE PUMP". I am planning to wire it in parallel to the stock pump and get it going with an additional hose, outlet, etc. This has an 1100 gallon per hour (under optimal conditions...). I've installed a smaller one on a Hobie TI and I epoxied it into the hull. I used an expensive marine epoxy by West System. I think it's worth it. I love the design of this pump. It has an on/off/auto with the auto switch via a float. I am planning to hot wire the auto to be always on (no need to monitor), and the on to the stock pump. I think this has the potential of saving the boat if a repeat of my friend mistake is ever to happened. Besides, bilge pump do go bad, so having a live back up is a good investment in my humble opinion.

 

[bronze_10]

I installed a rule 1100 gph pump last fall with a dedicated 1 1/4 inch discharge hose.. That sucker can flat move some water !

 

[Scottintexas]

we have a good write up in our FAQ tab about adding a second bilge, it's also good if it's a backup to hook a sound alarm to it, so if it's having to work there's no doubt you know you have an issue to address,

 

[Coheeba]

I used 5 min epoxy and 5200. The epoxy dries quickly and the 5200 when it dries (24hrs) provides flexibility whereas the epoxy is brittle. Two dabs of epoxy in the middle and a bead of 5200 around the perimeter of the strainer.