bimini top and add a tower

[djetok]

So I searched the threads to no avail. Not concrete info anyways.

My issue is my wife does not want to give up her big bimini. I spoke to chuck with waketowerpro.com , he does installs all over the country. He also just happens to based less than 10 miles away from me. He said the catapult tower would be the tower that might fit my criteria. Which are close to factory mount location, and bimini. Even at that there would be a 30 percent chance to work. We talked about the Samson edge. The catapult was the best fit for my criteria.

My wife will absolutely be disappointed in losing the big top. So my options are ? Buy a bigger boat like a 242? Take a chance on the catapult ? Keep searching?

Thoughts, opinions, and advice welcomed

I would rather not upgrade the boat BTW. 75 percent of our boating is on a 3 mile lake.
is the ar240 top the same size as the 242? Err e sires has the extended top

 

[swatski]

My wife will absolutely be disappointed in losing the big top. So my options are ?

100% E-series 242, if you want to stay with a Yamaha jet boat.
That would be my advice.
I have mounted several towers, there is no way you can have both: a large bimini and an aftermarket tower - without going through a ridiculous amount of money and/or effort. And with the thin Yamaha FRP hulls, it is even more tricky than in it sis in an older cored-hull boa - as far as tower choices and mounting points. Can it be done - yes.
Just my 0.02. But I feel strongly about it. The new 242 E/X towers - Yamaha got that right.

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[swatski]

is the ar240 top the same size as the 242?

AR bimini is small. Not awful, but it is small.
I like the way those AR towers/biminis look, BTW, and that is why I bought mine. But they have their issues as I found out, lol.

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[Adrian @ JB Solutions]

I've been slowly looking into this. My concern is more getting one of the "AR" style (forward swept) towers that will fold down and still fit under the mooring cover.

 

[djetok]

100% E-series 242, if you want to stay with a Yamaha jet boat.
That would be my advice.
I have mounted several towers, there is no way you can have both: a large bimini and an aftermarket tower - without going through a ridiculous amount of money and/or effort. And with the thin Yamaha FRP hulls, it is even more tricky than in it sis in an older cored-hull boa - as far as tower choices and mounting points. Can it be done - yes.
Just my 0.02. But I feel strongly about it. The new 242 E/X towers - Yamaha got that right.

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Yeah that was my concern getting the towered boats in the first place was the bimini (keeping the wife happy). The e series boats , wow are they expensive.

 

[djetok]

I've been slowly looking into this. My concern is more getting one of the "AR" style (forward swept) towers that will fold down and still fit under the mooring cover.

The big air cuda is affordable but the two bolt mounts per leg are a concern for me with the frp shells. If I do a tower it will most likely be a Samson with the one bolt mount, beveled washers at the hull (even distribution of weight on hull), and custom made for the boat. I would look at aerial towers as well but big air is made about 40 miles from me in Duncan, OK , so I could drive down and look at them.

 

[Adrian @ JB Solutions]

I like the Ariel FreeRide tower a lot... and is a good price. The Samsons are easily over 2k from what I have seen.

 

[djetok]

me too but I don't want cracks

http://wakeboardtowerreviews.com/index.html

 

[swatski]

You guys can find a good tower, that is not an issue. Fitting a LARGE bimini under it is.
That is what Yamaha got right, and take it - coming from me, lol.

I did not think the large E/X towers would be very stable, but those appear to be over-engineered w/three bolts and a bar and have been doing perfectly well during our little Bimini trips, in various conditions.

I missed out on that. Too bad. @djetok - I just don't want you to make the same mistake I did, if ordering a new boat from them. Go with the big tower, no question in my mind. The E-throttles scare me a bit, but are probably okay. That new large Connext - I could do without.

I'm not going to do this myself right now, but if I was in the market for a new 24ft yamaha - I would probably look for a 2015-2016 E/X. I like the 1st version of that big tower, with the cage on top.

Again, just my 0.02. I'm often wrong, too.

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[Adrian @ JB Solutions]

Good find - I can't see the video, but it does state they were unsure if it was properly mounted from behind. Whatever route I end up going - I am going to go over-kill on the backplate.

 

[djetok]

You guys can find a good tower, that is not an issue. Fitting a LARGE bimini under it is.
That is what Yamaha got right, and take it - coming from me, lol.

I did not think the large E/X towers would be very stable, but those appear to be over-engineered w/three bolts and a bar and have been doing perfectly well during our little Bimini trips, in various conditions.

I missed out on that. Too bad. @djetok - I just don't want you to make the same mistake I did, if ordering a new boat from them. Go with the big tower, no question in my mind. The E-throttles scare me a bit, but are probably okay. That new large Connext - I could do without.

I'm not going to do this myself right now, but if I was in the market for a new 24ft yamaha - I would probably look for a 2015-2016 E/X. I like the 1st version of that big tower, with the cage on top.

Again, just my 0.02. I'm often wrong, too.

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Yeah I am not spending 70k for a new e series boat at the moment or ever. I like my money to much lol

 

[ripler]

I added a tower to my 2010 SX210 and kept the factory bimini and only made a very minor modification to the bimini, see my profile pic. The only mod I made to the bimini was to change how the forward bimini bow mounts, instead of being a bolt I made it a removable pin so that I can remove the front bow from its pivot point. I have to remove the forward bow from its pivot point so I can get it to extend without hitting the tower, it can be done with 1 person, but it's easier with 2. I added the Aerial Airborne and the factory bimini sits below the tower. The tower can be folded to the front or rear and it sits no higher than my windshield, I still put the boat in my standard 7' garage. I did this myself so the only cost I had was the tower and material to add reinforcements to the hull.

 

[Adrian @ JB Solutions]

I added a tower to my 2010 SX210 and kept the factory bimini and only made a very minor modification to the bimini, see my profile pic. The only mod I made to the bimini was to change how the forward bimini bow mounts, instead of being a bolt I made it a removable pin so that I can remove the front bow from its pivot point. I have to remove the forward bow from its pivot point so I can get it to extend without hitting the tower, it can be done with 1 person, but it's easier with 2. I added the Aerial Airborne and the factory bimini sits below the tower. The tower can be folded to the front or rear and it sits no higher than my windshield, I still put the boat in my standard 7' garage. I did this myself so the only cost I had was the tower and material to add reinforcements to the hull.

Do you think the factory cover would still fit with it folded?

 

[djetok]

Good find - I can't see the video, but it does state they were unsure if it was properly mounted from behind. Whatever route I end up going - I am going to go over-kill on the backplate.

My thoughts too on the back plate. In the video Samson uses epoxy on the back plate to strengthen it and form it to the hull.

 

[djetok]

I added a tower to my 2010 SX210 and kept the factory bimini and only made a very minor modification to the bimini, see my profile pic. The only mod I made to the bimini was to change how the forward bimini bow mounts, instead of being a bolt I made it a removable pin so that I can remove the front bow from its pivot point. I have to remove the forward bow from its pivot point so I can get it to extend without hitting the tower, it can be done with 1 person, but it's easier with 2. I added the Aerial Airborne and the factory bimini sits below the tower. The tower can be folded to the front or rear and it sits no higher than my windshield, I still put the boat in my standard 7' garage. I did this myself so the only cost I had was the tower and material to add reinforcements to the hull.

I actually saw your thread of that on the other site I believe. How is it holding up?

 

[Adrian @ JB Solutions]

My thoughts too on the back plate. In the video Samson uses epoxy on the back plate to strengthen it and form it to the hull.

Where ours could be mounted (forward swept) I looked, and you could get a good backplate probably 24" long. Not sure how long the bolts coming from the tower are, but 1/4" aluminum glued to the hull with 3/4" birch glued to that (and bolted all the way through) --- I'm not an expert but I think that could do a pretty good job.

 

[ripler]

Do you think the factory cover would still fit with it folded?

I had to have it modified by a local canvas company for 100.00, hopefully this picture shows enough.

 

[ripler]

I actually saw your thread of that on the other site I believe. How is it holding up?

It's been fine, no issues at all.

 

[ripler]

Where ours could be mounted (forward swept) I looked, and you could get a good backplate probably 24" long. Not sure how long the bolts coming from the tower are, but 1/4" aluminum glued to the hull with 3/4" birch glued to that (and bolted all the way through) --- I'm not an expert but I think that could do a pretty good job.

I have a tip on this to save yourself from climbing in the storage compartments to add backing or to install the bolts for the tower.

Find your location for the tower and drill the hole for the tower mounts in the hull. On my boat I was only able to access the hole through the large port side storage compartment. For the other 3 holes I was able to remove the seat backs that are near the mounting holes, I then drilled a 5" hole in that area making sure the seat will cover the hole when reinstalled. I lined the hole with edging so I wouldn't get fiberglass splinters. I used 3/4" marine plywood and used fiberglass resin to fill in the contours of the hull. I drilled a hole in the plywood and caked it and the hull with resin, I put a bolt through the plywood and tower mounting hole and a washer and nut on the outside, I tightened it down to keep the plate in place as it cured.