• Welcome to Jetboaters.net!

    We are delighted you have found your way to the best Jet Boaters Forum on the internet! Please consider Signing Up so that you can enjoy all the features and offers on the forum. We have members with boats from all the major manufacturers including Yamaha, Seadoo, Scarab and Chaparral. We don't email you SPAM, and the site is totally non-commercial. So what's to lose? IT IS FREE!

    Membership allows you to ask questions (no matter how mundane), meet up with other jet boaters, see full images (not just thumbnails), browse the member map and qualifies you for members only discounts offered by vendors who run specials for our members only! (It also gets rid of this banner!)

    free hit counter

Boat trailer guide on posts for 190

SCSX190

Jet Boat Addict
Messages
109
Reaction score
49
Points
97
Location
Lake Wylie, SC
Boat Make
Yamaha
Year
2016
Boat Model
SX
Boat Length
19
What size guide on posts are you using for your 190? The west marine near me only has 40 inch in stock and it looks like those are for jet skis. Do I need 48-60?
 
I have the 65" posts from Ve-Ve Inc to make sure they are useful even on steep ramps.
 
@DBamaC do you have a pic of them on the trailer with boat on? Trying to get an idea for how it looks with that length.
 
IMG_20160730_122711249_HDR.jpg

I decided to go with the 40. Should be fine. Can easily be extended if needed.
 
Last edited:
Thanks for the pics guys. I think I'll try to find a middle ground as I think that might be a tight fit for my garage. What is your opening height?
 
The PVC portion slides off the metal L brace so it doesn't matter what size you go with. The 40 worked great for me and you can easily build on to the PVC if needed.
 
I have the 65" posts from Ve-Ve Inc to make sure they are useful even on steep ramps.

Have you experienced any scratching since you seem to be using them without pads?

Do you find it a PIA to deal with bumpers when loading? I assume you pull them in.

Do they interfere with fueling?

Do you recall the frame size? Did you have to get different mounting hardware that is offered? (I do not have boat near but want to order)

Lastly, how far away from rub rail did you install them?
 

A side question here, but how do you like the positioning of your mirror with the fixed tower arm? I have been debating whether I should get an articulating one to play it safe, but they are more expensive for something that already seems over priced. I just hate my windshield mount so I think I need one.
 
Have you experienced any scratching since you seem to be using them without pads?

Do you find it a PIA to deal with bumpers when loading? I assume you pull them in.

Do they interfere with fueling?

Do you recall the frame size? Did you have to get different mounting hardware that is offered? (I do not have boat near but want to order)

Lastly, how far away from rub rail did you install them?

192's have metal rub bands so no, I've not experienced and scratching on the boat. There is some on the pvc from the screws securing the banding. I will probably get covers eventually.

We pull the fenders before loading.

They do not in any way interfere with fueling.

I don't recall the frame size.

They are installed about 3" out on both sides.
 
A side question here, but how do you like the positioning of your mirror with the fixed tower arm? I have been debating whether I should get an articulating one to play it safe, but they are more expensive for something that already seems over priced. I just hate my windshield mount so I think I need one.

It's OK. Not that I'm used to it anyway. At first I bumped it a lot. It works for me because I really didn't want to spend much money on it.
 
I don't recall the frame size.

So then you used the regular mounting bolts that came with kit, or did you have to order the option with the longer bolts?
 
I used the regular mounting bolts. Also, I have Shorelander galvanized trailer.
 
Today I swung by Academy Sports and picked up as set of 60" C.E. Smith LED trailer guides for $99. Comes with galvanized frame and stainless hardware so no worries with rust. I may cut them down to about 50" if they look like they'll interfere with my garage since I have a lip on the slab floor which affects my overall garage opening. Gonna install them tonight after work! I'll get some covers for them eventually.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_4824.JPG
    IMG_4824.JPG
    563.6 KB · Views: 174
Got the guides installed. I think I'm going to leave them at 60".
 

Attachments

  • image.jpeg
    image.jpeg
    1.1 MB · Views: 194
@haknslash Make sure you check it out when you have the trailer in the water. I have the CE Smith poles with the LED's on the top. If they are seated all the way down, they kind of latch in and don't float up when submerged. If the boat rubs by the little LED caps, it'll make a gnarly scar on the hull. It's better to be tall than short. Otherwise, I love having the LED's on the top. Both for driving and for backing the empty trailer down the ramp at the end of the day.

Also, I bought the pads and covers online from CE Smith. Beware, they are a b!tch to get on!
 
@Bill D I noticed there is nothing technically securing the guides to the metal frame. They just kind of slide into that metal "non-rotate" tab on the frame. Have you had any issues with the guides trying to move around while driving if you hit a hard bump or anything? I was thinking about drilling a small hole and adding a screw to lock the guide in, similar to what you do with the LED cap on top.

I'm going to keep them at 60", so I shouldn't have an issue with the LED cap hitting or anything. :winkingthumbsup"
 
Mine came with 2 screws that secured the PVC on....
 
No issues with them moving around while driving. On mine the little "non-rotate" tab kind of secures them down. They are surprisingly secure. I was thinking about drilling a hole to put a pin in to keep them up high enough to clear the rub rail, but as long as I remember to pull up on them a little before backing in, they float high enough.
 
Back
Top