MNdrifter
Jet Boat Addict
- Messages
- 166
- Reaction score
- 121
- Points
- 122
- Location
- Rochester, MN
- Boat Make
- Yamaha
- Year
- 2013
- Boat Model
- SX
- Boat Length
- 21
I wanted a way to blow up the tube without going deaf.
My solution was to leave the pump under the seat and only have a switch and an air outlet on the swim platform.
I bought a boston valve and waterproof led lighted rocker switch.
In the plumbing section of a hardware store I found an adapter from threaded pipe to PVC pipe. It wasn't a perfect match to the boston valve but close enough. I wrapped the threads with thread sealing tape.
A vibratory tool with plunge cut saw allowed me to cut the rectangular hole for the switch.
A hole saw worked for the boston valve penetration. I used white silicone sealant (not adhesive) around the edges of the holes inside and out.
A bilge hose connects the pump to the adapter. Again, it was not a perfect fit. A bead of silicone on the inside of the adapter and the outside of the hose sealed things nicely. The pump has 2 knobs to lock the hose in place. I carefully cut slots in the end of the hose to match the knobs. I used the clamp that came with the hose to secure it to the pump.
A fused terminal block and ground bar made the connections for the wiring.
An automotive relay keeps the high amps from going all the way to the swim platform.
This is my wiring diagram.
I had a hand pump with a long hose and selection of adapters. I used that hose and took the adapters from my powered pump to get the boston style adapter at each end of the hose. This isn't the best option. If you pull too hard it comes loose. I may end up getting rid of the boston valve and using one of the other hose end adapters through the hull.
We are very pleased with the results. My wife accidentally bumped the switch while cleaning the swim platform. It took us a while to figure out where the noise was coming from. It sounded like a hair dryer on a boat next to us.
My solution was to leave the pump under the seat and only have a switch and an air outlet on the swim platform.
I bought a boston valve and waterproof led lighted rocker switch.
In the plumbing section of a hardware store I found an adapter from threaded pipe to PVC pipe. It wasn't a perfect match to the boston valve but close enough. I wrapped the threads with thread sealing tape.
A vibratory tool with plunge cut saw allowed me to cut the rectangular hole for the switch.
A hole saw worked for the boston valve penetration. I used white silicone sealant (not adhesive) around the edges of the holes inside and out.
A bilge hose connects the pump to the adapter. Again, it was not a perfect fit. A bead of silicone on the inside of the adapter and the outside of the hose sealed things nicely. The pump has 2 knobs to lock the hose in place. I carefully cut slots in the end of the hose to match the knobs. I used the clamp that came with the hose to secure it to the pump.
A fused terminal block and ground bar made the connections for the wiring.
An automotive relay keeps the high amps from going all the way to the swim platform.
This is my wiring diagram.
I had a hand pump with a long hose and selection of adapters. I used that hose and took the adapters from my powered pump to get the boston style adapter at each end of the hose. This isn't the best option. If you pull too hard it comes loose. I may end up getting rid of the boston valve and using one of the other hose end adapters through the hull.
We are very pleased with the results. My wife accidentally bumped the switch while cleaning the swim platform. It took us a while to figure out where the noise was coming from. It sounded like a hair dryer on a boat next to us.
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