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Carburetor Rebuild

4x15mph

Jetboaters Admiral
Messages
1,845
Reaction score
1,077
Points
282
Location
Downingtown, PA
Boat Make
Yamaha
Year
2018
Boat Model
AR
Boat Length
21
I am going to rebuild my carburetor's and I am glad I went down this path since they look to be pretty dirty. My boat is a 2001 and I don't know when they were last rebuilt.

I have the gaskets for the intake and carburetor cover along with the Rebuild kits due to be here tomorrow.

Are there any carburetor experts out there that I can bounce questions off of?

1) what should I use to clean the inside of the carbs and the different parts that I take out (i.e. needles, body assembly)? I have heard that I should NOT use carb cleaner but that doesn't make a lot of sense to me. I saw one video where they recommended soap and water.???? Any advice

Thank you
 
I used carb cleaner. Or, some would recommend running a few cans of Sea Foam through a few tanks as this sometimes keeps everything running smooth and prevent or stave off a rebuild. Personally, if things were bogging down I'd spray Sea Foam Spray (they make it) through the carbs to clean them out. You probably didn't need a re-build but I understand - it's getting cold so why not? The best way to clean? I'm not sure about soap and water. It always made sense to me to use CARB CLEANER. Why wouldn't we? Probably the most thorough way to clean things is to soak everything in a large bucket of carb cleaner. Before soaking, spray some spray cleaner into the holes that the jets, idle screws, float needle, and choke came from. When cleaning the jets, be sure to spray cleaner into the holes. Then, to be sure, soak the parts in the bath. You can also use compressed air through any holes to blow out any gunk. I will answer your main question with another question. Why wouldn't you use carb cleaner? NOt so sure about soap and water being effective to get rid of gunk. But who knows? I never tried it.
 
Thanks @OCMD, I read that carb cleaner is not good for the rubber parts like the needle seats. I plan to clean the needles and not replace them

I think a good cleaning is a great preventative step for these older 2 strokes. I am on the fence as far as sea foam since that can loosen debris and have it get caught up somewhere down the line (i.e. jets, fuel filter).
 
I use an ultrasonic jewelry cleaner to clean the carb parts & jets on my carbs. Then a bottle of carb or brake cleaner spray on the body of the carb. They're pretty cheap to buy and possibly the wife already has one (just don't let her see what you're cleaning with it) ;)
 
I ended up buying this from Walmart: Berryman Chem-Dip Carburetor and Parts Cleaner. I liked that it came with a basket and I just lowered the parts (jet needles, seats, etc) into the cleaner.

I also used carb cleaner once I had removed all of the rubber and plastic valves. Carb went back together nicely and it started right up. Unfortunately this was not my issue but after seeing how dirty it was, I am glad I did this!!!!

I went back to the original idea of having a cooling problem and when I ran the boat on the water it began limiting the RPM's. A reading with a infrared thermometer showed over 200 degrees at the exhaust ring so I went back to attacking this as the problem.

I took apart the exhaust ring and chamber only to find a lot of rocks and debris. I also found a rubber seal that was in bad shape but the best news was that the 3 cooling holes in the exhaust ring were clogged and I was able to poke some black plastic pieces through the holes. What is the black plastic??? This problem started when I burned through a plastic impeller liner and I think when that was happening, pieces of plastic were circulated through the cooling system and clogged up these holes. I really hope this is the problem since I have now looked at almost everything. New parts (rubber seal) are on order so hopefully this goes back together on Fri/Sat and I get to take it for another test run. I can't put this boat away in the winter without it working....
IMG_1035.JPG
 
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@4x15mph glad you eliminating more possibilities and fixing stuff along the way,
I could only see one large picture with the black plastic ring. There are three files that say "view attachment" but when I click on them it says the file can't be found,

I getting a victory cigar ready in case it was my suggestion and link that helped solved the problem, that doesn't happen to often for me!
 
@Scottintexas , my post was messed up and I only wanted to show the 1 picture since the others were duplicates.

I think you are referring to my other thread where I started out by thinking this was a cooling system problem. After paying someone to look at the cooling system (???), I dug into the carb since I had wanted to do that and see them anyway. Check this out and you can see why people blow through engines when the carbs are not maintained. They are brand new now....

You definitely deserve a cigar for the link and help. If you come over and help put it back together, you can have a couple cigars along with some prized scotch.

IMG_1020.JPG IMG_1015.JPG
 
Oh WOW...Good job man...I know this doesn't help but Thank You for making me feel good about my fuel injection.
 
Wow. I am glad you did the carbs. Sure they worked but I bet you will feel MUCH better about long term engine health now.
 
I was hoping to see the 3 cooling holes that were blocked,
 
@Scottintexas , here you go:

You are looking at the middle hole. To the left and right are 2 other holes which you may be able to see. These are clear now but before they were completely blocked with what looked like plastic from my impeller.

This is soaking now and will be cleaned up once the new parts come.

I wonder if newer Yamaha's have this same design. I wish this was a closed loop cooling system but maybe there are benefits around having it open????


photo (8).JPG
 
@4x15mph so is this the piece or similar pictured above, my picture is from the YJB link I included on the other post,


file.php
 
It looks like the comparable piece. My boat is an LS2000 and the exhaust looks a bit different but it is probably the same idea. I wish there was a better design. I am installing strainers for the cooling
 
It looks like the comparable piece. My boat is an LS2000 and the exhaust looks a bit different but it is probably the same idea. I wish there was a better design. I am installing strainers for the cooling
Strainers will be great, just remember to clean them regularly. If all those tiny rocks are getting in there, they could clog quick.
 
Thanks @Big Shasta . Did you install strainers and do you have any recommendations on which kit to go with? In hindsight, I did find one downside of the replaceable plastic, impeller liner.... they can shred and clog your cooling system.
 
So this is what im duing right now... the 3 holes seem pretty good. Could i possibly have foulty heat sensors.my rpms wont go pas 3500 but engine still revs high and it does have power it gets up to 43 mph and the boat never shuts of idles pretty smoth.or do i just have bad guage.one rpm guage is broken got new one on the way the one that doesnt go pas 3500 i switched and tried it on both engines both 3500 how could both go in same possition..however compression reads 120 on all 6 cylindres water flows everywhere nicely...i cant upload pic for some reason. I have a cideo on facebook at jetboaters
 
Are these aftermarket rpm gauges? Maybe they aren't set to the right setting for the 2-stroke, 3 cyl engines. Did they ever go past 3500?
 
Yes they were set wrong i had that fixed.... now i got dead cylinder
 
Sorry to hear that Dardania. Are you getting 43mph with a dead cylinder or did the cylinder just die after your earlier posts? Are you going to rebuild and what are your plans?
 
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