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CEL and stop engine message on a 2022 252 FSH

B

Bugslayer

Jet Boat Junkie
Messages
77
Reaction score
261
Points
132
Location
Idaho/Baja
Boat Make
Yamaha
Year
2022
Boat Model
FSH Sport
Boat Length
25
Out on the the water yesterday here in Baja, 15 miles off shore. Ripping along at 40+ mph. Stop to glass for birds. Start the boat up to head out and get an alarm and message saying shut off port engine and see dealer.
I cleared the message shut everything down.
Same scenario when I restart. Shut down again, turn off the batteries and wait a bit.
Restart everything only to have the same scenario.
There are no other idiot lights on except the CEL, so I clear the message and start heading for the ramp. Easing up throttles as I gain more confidence nothing is going to happen.
Due to sea conditions I kept it at about 38 mph for the last 8 miles to the ramp.
CEL on the whole time.
We get it trailered and start the clean up process, when my wife starts the engines for flushing....no CEL! No message!

Mind you, I'm in Baja MX, not a dealer for this boat for 600 miles, back in the US.

Now what?!
 
Happens from time to time on my 252SE, I assume a stick or sea grass gets stuck and causes enough resistance to set off an alarm
 
adrianp89 said:
Happens from time to time on my 252SE, I assume a stick or sea grass gets stuck and causes enough resistance to set off an alarm
Click to expand...
And when it happens, the CEL goes off after some time?
 
Bugslayer said:
And when it happens, the CEL goes off after some time?
Click to expand...

What likely happened is that whatever was stuck on your grates or in the impeller cleared itself by the time you got back
 
drewkaree said:
What likely happened is that whatever was stuck on your grates or in the impeller cleared itself by the time you got back
Click to expand...
Thank you guys for the responses.
So if something is obstructing the flow/empellers it throws a CEL and message? No overheat was thrown.
If I had a way to read the codes like an OBD what would it have said?
 
Bugslayer said:
Thank you guys for the responses.
So if something is obstructing the flow/empellers it throws a CEL and message? No overheat was thrown.
If I had a way to read the codes like an OBD what would it have said?
Click to expand...

If you're not pulling as much water as needed, yes, it will throw this message. The annoying thing about the system is that the warning is so generic, so we're left to guess while out on the water.

You don't have a temp gauge, unfortunately, it'll just be a stored generic code. Same as OBDII, here's the code, and a few possibilities.

If you look up "reverse move" in the FAQ, that's something you can test out right away. Try it 2-3 times at first, and if you have a lookout, they can usually see when you've cleared something.

Second, do you have some hose clamp pliers or other way to clamp off the lines? You shouldn't be running over 5mph without clamping off the line.
 
drewkaree said:
If you're not pulling as much water as needed, yes, it will throw this message. The annoying thing about the system is that the warning is so generic, so we're left to guess while out on the water.

You don't have a temp gauge, unfortunately, it'll just be a stored generic code. Same as OBDII, here's the code, and a few possibilities.

If you look up "reverse move" in the FAQ, that's something you can test out right away. Try it 2-3 times at first, and if you have a lookout, they can usually see when you've cleared something.

Second, do you have some hose clamp pliers or other way to clamp off the lines? You shouldn't be running over 5mph without clamping off the line.
Click to expand...

Does the reverse maneuver work with the E drive system?
 
What I’ve seen here before about clearing these alarms requires this procedure

Engines on
Engines off
Batteries off
Batteries on
Repeat five times.

I had something similar happen once when my boat was new, I got some water grass or something in the port jet pump and that engine got a high temp alarm on the dash, then very quickly went into limp mode, then back out of limp mode but the alarm kept coming back and I shut off the batteries a couple of times then thought well I’m going to make the long drive to the dealer. Docked my boat, went and got the trailer and when I started it up to put it on the trailer everything was clear.
 
drewkaree said:
Not certain on that. I didn't realize that boat had the E drive
Click to expand...

Yeah the 255 FSH Sport E’s have the push button start and the servo operated reverse gates.

I have often wondered about how those gates work, are they on a potentiometer or just a position switch? Meaning, on the direct cable actuated reversing gates you can adjust the thrust forward or reverse infinitesimally, I wonder if the electrically operated ones are the same, or is it like an outdrive, it’s either in forward or neutral.
 
My boat is a 252 FSH, so no e-drive.

I guess if it was something blocking flow, I would have expected to feel a loss of thrust or something noticeable like that.

Could it be something emissions related? Do these boats have smog crap on them?
 
Bugslayer said:
My boat is a 252 FSH, so no e-drive.

I guess if it was something blocking flow, I would have expected to feel a loss of thrust or something noticeable like that.

Could it be something emissions related? Do these boats have smog crap on them?
Click to expand...

Did you buy the boat in CA in 2022? If you did then there could be catalytic converters on it, should be obvious when looking at your exhausts in the engine bay, they should be huge?

I had a hunch, then re read your initial post again. If I have this right.. you were cruising, stopped to look for birds, then started and took off and immediately got the CEL alarm? If that is the case I don’t think it was an overheat, I think you got some sort of electrical transient through the system.

How old are your batteries?
What kind of batteries are they?
Do you have an onboard charger on the house and start batteries?
When was the last time you checked the connections?
When you start your boat, what the voltage drop to on the connext scree? It shouldn’t be lower than 10.4 volts.

I would also check all of the battery connections, especially the grounds, on the batteries and where the grounds attach to the engines. Pull the multi pin connectors apart and check for corrosion, might be a good idea to spritz them with a little Lectra Motive contact cleaner, Amazon.com blow them out, then hit them with some silicone spray or grease.



A lot of the problems people have with their electrics are caused by bad grounds, whether corroded or loose. While I understand that you have the 252, the E series of boats have had issues with batteries with low voltage, either from being on their way out, or not charged properly.
 
FSH 210 Sport said:
Did you buy the boat in CA in 2022? If you did then there could be catalytic converters on it, should be obvious when looking at your exhausts in the engine bay, they should be huge?

I had a hunch, then re read your initial post again. If I have this right.. you were cruising, stopped to look for birds, then started and took off and immediately got the CEL alarm? If that is the case I don’t think it was an overheat, I think you got some sort of electrical transient through the system.

How old are your batteries?
What kind of batteries are they?
Do you have an onboard charger on the house and start batteries?
When was the last time you checked the connections?
When you start your boat, what the voltage drop to on the connext scree? It shouldn’t be lower than 10.4 volts.

I would also check all of the battery connections, especially the grounds, on the batteries and where the grounds attach to the engines. Pull the multi pin connectors apart and check for corrosion, might be a good idea to spritz them with a little Lectra Motive contact cleaner, Amazon.com blow them out, then hit them with some silicone spray or grease.



A lot of the problems people have with their electrics are caused by bad grounds, whether corroded or loose. While I understand that you have the 252, the E series of boats have had issues with batteries with low voltage, either from being on their way out, or not charged properly.
Click to expand...
This all makes more sense to me than a blockage.
I do not have 110 volts where I keep the boat. There is a solar battery charger that I hook up. I'm not too sure how well it keeps things charged. The original batteries gave up on me last year. I put in Two new ones from an Autozone they have down here. Keep in mind this is Mexico. I tried to convey the batteries were going in a bout, but my guess is they are just car batteries.

The crank battery is doing fine, but the house battery is another story.
It will drain down pretty quickly when we are out.
I am usually running the Simrad, a humminbird a down rigger and a livewell pump. I feel the house battery should be able to handle that for 4 or 5 hours, with intermittent runs to different spots.

Even if the house battery is going low, would that effect the crank/engine side?
 
Bugslayer said:
This all makes more sense to me than a blockage.
I do not have 110 volts where I keep the boat. There is a solar battery charger that I hook up. I'm not too sure how well it keeps things charged. The original batteries gave up on me last year. I put in Two new ones from an Autozone they have down here. Keep in mind this is Mexico. I tried to convey the batteries were going in a bout, but my guess is they are just car batteries.

The crank battery is doing fine, but the house battery is another story.
It will drain down pretty quickly when we are out.
I am usually running the Simrad, a humminbird a down rigger and a livewell pump. I feel the house battery should be able to handle that for 4 or 5 hours, with intermittent runs to different spots.

Even if the house battery is going low, would that effect the crank/engine side?
Click to expand...

How many watts is the solar charger?
Depending on the size of the solar panel, it may or may not be charging your house battery up fully, and that will lead to a bit of a death spiral if it is just a maintainer. The most the engines together will put out is roughly 26 amps, but lead acid batteries will not fully charge from the alternators on board, and would take a really long time to do so, they need to be fully charged. If you install a Victron smart shunt on the house battery you will be able to see how much power is being used and how much power gets put back by your solar charger. The Simrad and Hummind together are probably using roughly 6 amps continuous, the live well about 3A’s, but the electric down rigger when in pulling up probably uses around 10-15A I would guess. I’d say your best bet there would be to set up your house battery with quick disconnects on each terminal to the house battery could be removed and brought back to the Casa and fully charged after each use.

What size is the battery? Group 25 or 27/31? Are they flooded or AGM?

Do you have an onboard battery charger? There have been a few folks who have bought Jackery boxes to supply power to their on board chargers.

I don’t think the house battery going low will affect things too much, but depending on the state of health of your start battery that could be an issue as well. It might not be a bad idea to get both batteries out, bring them home and charge them up fully on a charger that is at least 10A per battery.
 
Ok, today i scored an Optima battery from Autozone here in baja. Closer to the spec of the original Deka battery that came OEM in the boat. Got it on a charger overnight to get it fully charged.
I think you are exactly right about not getting enough charge and just slowly draining down the batteries. Both house and engine.
Going to look at some options to keep things topped off on in future.

This off grid stuff has its challenges.

Thank ou for all your help!
 
FSH 210 Sport said:
How many watts is the solar charger?
Depending on the size of the solar panel, it may or may not be charging your house battery up fully, and that will lead to a bit of a death spiral if it is just a maintainer. The most the engines together will put out is roughly 26 amps, but lead acid batteries will not fully charge from the alternators on board, and would take a really long time to do so, they need to be fully charged. If you install a Victron smart shunt on the house battery you will be able to see how much power is being used and how much power gets put back by your solar charger. The Simrad and Hummind together are probably using roughly 6 amps continuous, the live well about 3A’s, but the electric down rigger when in pulling up probably uses around 10-15A I would guess. I’d say your best bet there would be to set up your house battery with quick disconnects on each terminal to the house battery could be removed and brought back to the Casa and fully charged after each use.

What size is the battery? Group 25 or 27/31? Are they flooded or AGM?

Do you have an onboard battery charger? There have been a few folks who have bought Jackery boxes to supply power to their on board chargers.

I don’t think the house battery going low will affect things too much, but depending on the state of health of your start battery that could be an issue as well. It might not be a bad idea to get both batteries out, bring them home and charge them up fully on a charger that is at least 10A per battery.
Click to expand...
Ok now I'm baffled.
I put the Optima battery in after charging on a smart charger. 13.2 volts. I checked the crank battery before hooking thing up. It was 12.6. Put the Optima in the house spot. Connected the leads. Did not turn on the battery switches at all.
Checked the voltage and they had both equalized out at 12.9.
The DVSR light was illuminated. Showing it was charging the low battery.
I thought these were separate batteries unwell you connected them.
What gives?
I have a shop manual, but it doesn't cover the DVSR connection in depth.20240413_093803.jpg
 
The dvsr closes at 13.4 of I’m not mistaken and opens at 12.8. Your meter, the boat Orr your personal one? Could be off a couple of tenths which explain why the light is on.

This is one reason wiring the dvsr off of the switched side of either the house or start is a good idea. If your start battery is a flooded lead acid then it’s resting voltage is lower than an AGM so it will discharge into that battery when the dvsr is closed.
 
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