Changing Steering Cable -through hull stuck...

[Bob Lentz]

Ok, so i manufactured a custom tool to get the 22mm nut off the transom. No problem - however, the threaded end of the steering cable that passes through the hull is frozen, seized, glued or whatever.

Put a set of vice grips on the inside portion of the cable hoping to turn it but i cant get enough leverage inside that small compartment.

I have pounded the crap out of it from the outside and it won't budge. Need another approach - thoughts anyone?

 

[bronze_10]

I received my reverse cables yesterday and i am expecting my steering cables at any time. I also have a 2008. I will be figuring it out very very soon. Thinking about knocking out the reverse cables this weekend... not sure about steering cables yet.
I have been looking on the forum for a specific explanation on how the through hull fittings even work or hold the cable... Havent found anything yet. Let me know what you find.. lol

 

[Bob Lentz]

i am knee deep in this and can tell you that outside of getting the cables knocked back into the boat, the two biggest challenges will be building a tool to get the 22mm transom nut off the steering cable and getting the deck hatch open where the cables run up to the steering console. I had to drill 10 of the 13 #4 square head screws out as they were seized and would not budge. As for making the tool, i got a 12" long 1.25" steel pipe nipple and a 22mm deep socket. I cut the 1/2 drive end of the socket off using a grinder cut off so that i had a 22mm 12pt and close to 22mm opening all the way through the socket. I drilled a 1/4" whole into socket close to the cut off end and then used a bolt to attach the socket to the pipe allowing for as much of the socket to protrude from the end of the pipe. so now you have a 22mm socket with a wide open pass through for the cable to go through. Put a pipe wrench on it and it turns the nut.

 

[Julian]

Photos of both sides would be helpful. I've only done the Reverse gate cables, but the steering can't be much different. There is a through hull fitting that I assume you removed (if I recall....its been 5 years since I did mine)....and a ton of caulk!

 

[Bob Lentz]

no fitting. just 3/4" or so open whole that you put the threaded end of the steering cable through. there is a nut/washer combo on the inside and then you caulk the outside then put washer nut back and tighten - simple - If you can get the old cable out. My port side was easy - starboard not so much... heading to the store to get a bigger mini-sledge and a long 1/2" drive extension that i can pound on.

 

[bronze_10]

I have been planning this for a while so i have been preparing in steps. this spring i tackled the fuel hatch and all the bolts came out easy except one which i managed to still get out with out breaking. i have removed my pumps a few times so when i tackle the job i am going to remove the entire pump assembly and buy a set of pass through sockets from lowes. That way i can get right up on the transom with the ratchet without having to building anything. Plus i am going to check my cone bearings as well. Was just trying to learn about the through hull fittings. Everyone says they are simple except when they become frozen like yours. I read where one member had the same problem you did. i think he had to grind off most of the cable on the outside so he had a larger flat surface to smack with. it turned out the inside was covered with silicone or something preventing it from breaking loose.

 

[Bob Lentz]

i am not sure a pass-through socket will work - the opening at the ends of all the ones i have seen are 1/2" or less - not big enough to pass through the linkage. Also, never saw a deep pass through which is what you will need to get over the threads and far enough out to get the ratchet on it. Hopefully, it will work for you but the ones i saw would not. Heading out to boat to bang on it - will keep you posted.

 

[Julian]

There was a nice blob of silicon on the inside of my reverse gate cables....took some scraping to get it off! Definitely want the clean out tray fully out of the way so you can access in the interior of the bilge fully.

Clear to me from this thread that the steering cable will be harder than the reverse gate cable as it goes through the metal transom gate.

 

[Bob Lentz]

already cleaned the inside of silicone/adheasive

 

[bronze_10]

https://jetboaters.net/threads/removing-3m-5200-and-my-steering-cable.7128/ here is the thread i was talking about.

 

[bronze_10]

look at this thread for the talk about pass through sockets.. https://jetboaters.net/threads/replacing-steering-cables.1530/

 

[Bob Lentz]

Success too! Had to get midieval on its a$$ - took the grinder to the inside and ground the nut off - not easy but effective none the less. Bigger hammer and pipe was no match. After i ground he nut off - i was able to put vice grips on what was left and loosen it up - then pounded it through.

aaaahhhhh!!!! - what should be a 30 minute job turns into hours. Is it 5 o-clock yet?

 

[Paulie]

I didn't feel like buying a whole pass thru socket set so I found a oxygen sensor socket at pep boys that fit the nut perfectly!

 

[Megan T]

Hi Bob,
We’re just starting the process to change our steering cable. Can you tell me how you made the custom tool and upload a pic if you get the chance?
The openings on the back of deep sockets are too small for our cable and it looks like the oxygen sensor socket would be too small too.
Or could we buy/borrow this tool from you??

 

[bronze_10]

Go to lowes and buy a pass through socket set... that's what i did.. worked like a charm! Unlike SOME people.. (@PaulyB ) i use any excuss to buy tools!

 

[Megan T]

Go to lowes and buy a pass through socket set... that's what i did.. worked like a charm! Unlike SOME people.. (@PaulyB ) i use any excuss to buy tools!

I don’t think the back opening will be big enough, but I will check them out. Thanks for the tip. My cable looks pretty close to 1/2”. I have a 2012 242 limited s. Which model were you working on??
Thx

 

[Scottintexas]

@Megan T Welcome aboard! glad you found us, this is the type of pass thru set mentioned above, the socket is open so there is no backing,

You may want to check the FAQ tab at the top of the page, there is a link for a DIY on this change.

Where do you boat at ? how long have you had your boat?

 

[bronze_10]

What @Scottintexas has pictured above is what i used. I have to hold it to see what we mean.. works perfectly.

My boat is an 08.

 

[Paulie]

Here’s what I used. I have an 05

OEMTOOLS 25249 Oxygen Sensor Crowfoot Wrench https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004FEN9JG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_nwtmAbA5Z0WJ6

 

[Megan T]

Thanks everyone. We ended up having to custom make the tool because we just didn’t have the clearance to use the socket wrenches alone. Maybe this is an issue with the 2012 242 limited s?
But now we ran into another problem.
We got the nut and washer off, but now the cable doesn’t move.
Here is a pic... what part is supposed to go through? The metal and the black? Just the metal? We tried hammering on the threaded end (not shown) and it moves a bit in, but we don’t know if that is the only part that needs to go through he hull.
Any help is much appreciated!!