Clean out plug disaster

[haknslash]

All I can say is the one time I had the plug not seated I had VERY little thrust and immediately knew there was an issue. Forward momentum was not even an option lol. Water was not pouring in from just the plug not being seated (assuming you didn’t just lay on the throttle) nor will it flood if sitting still because if you remove the plug to get weeds out the water doesn’t flood the bilge. It just stays there down in the tube. What can flood the bilge though is if the rubber manhole tube blows out or you rev the engines not going anywhere for a long time with the plugs removed (think water fountain effect inside your clean out tray) or if you had the plug out and you filled ballast on the swim deck.

 

[fatboyroy]

Weird first time I took my boat out on my own (after water test with dealer), I forgot the clean out plug and I noticed it right away 10 feet off the dock, maybe cause im new on jet boat so I notice everything but I felt there is no thrust, the good thing is I was still in no wake mode so I didn't hit the throttle hard. Hope you fix it soon and get back on the water again!!!

 

[Cobra Jet Steering LLC]

That is what happens when the plug is out but his plug was in , it slipped sideways or half blew out may be another way to describe it when this happens you don't know completely different situation and the worst thing to have happen for this very reason.

 

[14SX190]

All good and dry.

 

[AmesJainchill]

high water alarm - if you cooling line comes loose or other hose blows under power you'll be full before you know there's a problem

I wonder if more recent models, say 2018+, have some form of high water alarm from the factory? In re-reviewing the manual at the time, I don't recall seeing anything about different bilge light colors. But when I had my relatively minor issue at the beginning of last season where the water came up the clean-out tube(s) at cruise or higher (possibly from a slightly ajar plug) and got into the lower bilge through the improperly sealed (or not sealed at all) clean-out tray and tubes, I noticed two different color lights on the connext screen bilge "button". Blue when the bilge first turns on pumping water out of the lower bilge area, but then the light turns red which is what really brought my attention to it at the time (causing me to stop and open the engine compartment to check hoses/clamps which were fine - though I could see water emptying down into the lower bilge as it caught up at idle).

I assumed the red light meant that the water had reached the engine compartment around where the top of the bilge pump is situated. It only turned red when I went faster than cruise. I was lucky in that the water barely got into the engine compartment and I was able to go slightly under cruise (~31mph for me) heading immediately back to the launch and the bilge light would kick on blue for a min or so, then shut off and seemed to be able to keep up with what was coming in. It only turned red when I briefly wot'd and then noticed the problem.

 

[TimW451]

Once I began religiously removing my plugs after boating, I added a geofenced reminder on my iPhone to reinstall the plugs when I arrive at the marina. ?

 

[FLJetBoater]

I'm with Scott here. How did water enter the hull?? Did it blow the cleanout tube completely off of the mounting surface?? Just a blown plug doesn't let water come in the boat.

Maybe the clean out tray isn’t sealed? Even still sea like it would just leak through, not blast and overtake the engine compartment.
Maybe clean out tubes not attached properly...or it blew the small hatch lid out. If that lid moved I could see large amounts of water flowing into bilge.

 

[FLJetBoater]

I wonder if more recent models, say 2018+, have some form of high water alarm from the factory? In re-reviewing the manual at the time, I don't recall seeing anything about different bilge light colors. But when I had my relatively minor issue at the beginning of last season where the water came up the clean-out tube(s) at cruise or higher (possibly from a slightly ajar plug) and got into the lower bilge through the improperly sealed (or not sealed at all) clean-out tray and tubes, I noticed two different color lights on the connext screen bilge "button". Blue when the bilge first turns on pumping water out of the lower bilge area, but then the light turns red which is what really brought my attention to it at the time (causing me to stop and open the engine compartment to check hoses/clamps which were fine - though I could see water emptying down into the lower bilge as it caught up at idle).

I assumed the red light meant that the water had reached the engine compartment around where the top of the bilge pump is situated. It only turned red when I went faster than cruise. I was lucky in that the water barely got into the engine compartment and I was able to go slightly under cruise (~31mph for me) heading immediately back to the launch and the bilge light would kick on blue for a min or so, then shut off and seemed to be able to keep up with what was coming in. It only turned red when I briefly wot'd and then noticed the problem.

On the 2015 I just got blue means that it’s on “auto bilge”. Green means on. Black is off. I’m not sure what’s the difference between auto and not other than maybe you have to do it every time you start the boat? I need to read the owners manual for this year

 

[14SX190]

Some other pictures of day.

 

[Sbrown]

On the 2015 I just got blue means that it’s on “auto bilge”. Green means on. Black is off. I’m not sure what’s the difference between auto and not other than maybe you have to do it every time you start the boat? I need to read the owners manual for this year

Auto means it automatically cycles the pump every so often to check for presence of water. If it detects water, the pump will then continue to run to pump the water out. I personally would prefer a normal float switch.

 

[Beachbummer]

to add to @Sbrown very good post, "Normal Float Switch" being a mechanical switch that consumes no power while protecting the boat, by means of a float that engages when the water level increases above a certain point...
Say

Amazon.com : YaeMarine Marine Boat Bilge Pump Float Switch Ignition Protection 20 Amps (12V 24V 32V)(White) : Sports & Outdoors

Amazon.com : YaeMarine Marine Boat Bilge Pump Float Switch Ignition Protection 20 Amps (12V 24V 32V)(White) : Sports & Outdoors

www.amazon.com

or

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000O8DA3M/

Something like this is very reliable and does not use power to determine the water level.

 

[FLJetBoater]

Auto means it automatically cycles the pump every so often to check for presence of water. If it detects water, the pump will then continue to run to pump the water out. I personally would prefer a normal float switch.

Me too. I'm installing a 2nd one with a regular float switch connected directly to the battery.

I'm still a bit confused why you need "ON" when "AUTO" should just be doing it anyway. I guess if somehow the AUTO fails to detect water you can override it to ON? But this also insinuates that the bilge pump itself can be toggled between ON and AUTO. I didnt think they had that capability.

 

[Beachbummer]

You can empty the bilge with ON manually to get the remainder. The float may stop extracting water as the level just drops below it. You may want to manually run it until it runs dry, by manually overriding.

 

[Betik]

I vividly recall the day I came back from a wonderful day in the water and when the boat was on the trailer I went on to remove my plugs. The port security pin will not came off... besides the 2 seconds WTF moment I released how lucky I have been to have had @Cobra Jet Steering LLC pins. I still get cold sweats when i thing about it......

For the record I have 2 pumps with manual and automating float switch as well as high water alarm. That high water alarm came off once during a suprize storm with 55mph wind and a phenomenal downpour. It did take a while before I figured out what was happening, but pumps were real quick, i say less that 45 seconds or so.

 

[adamncincy]

I don't know why, but I've forgotten to put the plugs in more times than willing to admit! lol

If I didn't notice the lack of performance early on, I'd be in bad shape.

Another item I care to admit ... putting throttle back in neutral position. I sat there for 10 mins one time trying to figure out why engines won't start! lol

 

[anmut]

This is another reason that a ballast bag pump for $99 is cheap insurance if you take on water. they can be put anywhere and come with long 12v plugs. Between the bilge and my two ballast pumps, I figure I could take on some significant inflows before going down.

Just have to remember they're there when going into full panic mode.

 

[sunbyrned]

This is another reason that a ballast bag pump for $99 is cheap insurance if you take on water. they can be put anywhere and come with long 12v plugs. Between the bilge and my two ballast pumps, I figure I could take on some significant inflows before going down.

Just have to remember they're there when going into full panic mode.

I have two pumps also, but only one charger outlet. Did you install an extra outlet by any chance to make filling bags quicker? I plan on doing that but just curious if it’s worth it.

 

[anmut]

I have two pumps also, but only one charger outlet. Did you install an extra outlet by any chance to make filling bags quicker? I plan on doing that but just curious if it’s worth it.

Amazon, one-to-three adapter

 

[Cambo]

I will keep posting this... It was preventable with an item that is less than $7.00 . You swamped a lot of stuff with salt water that could have been prevented

Amazon.com

 

[Betik]

I will keep posting this... It was preventable with an item that is less than $7.00 . You swamped a lot of stuff with salt water that could have been prevented

Amazon.com

Had the boat on the drive yesterday and it rained a lot. When I got ready to lunch the high water alert went off . It gots everyone ones attention. Took 5 minutes for the pump emty the bilge ….