Clearing standing water in hose

[boyd3010]

New boater (ignorant) question here: I have standing water in a hose line and wanted to know how to properly clear it out without breaking anything.

The water originates in the bow storage compartment (drain hole circled in picture with 5 gallon bucket). The drain hole goes to a black hose that routes to the engine compartment and connects to a white, larger diameter hose. Picture attached of connection. And finally the white, larger hose routes to a valve (scupper?) on the stern of the boat. Picture attached and circled valve.

I'm assuming that I could just push the water out the stern valve with low pressure compressed air that is pushed from the drain hole in the bow compartment. But I didn't want to do that until I asked the forum. I wasn't sure if the stern valve only opens when boat is in water and speeding up boat causes standing water in line to "push" out valve. I didn't know how sensitive, or weak, the valve is to compressed air pushing water through, when boat is on land.

I know I probably could loosen the black hose from the white hose in the engine compartment and suck the water out but I'm not too eager to open up a hose with known standing water that is right over my engines.

Am I right in assuming that low pressure air could push out the water and not break the valve? Is there another way that I'm not thinking about? Or should I not worry about this standing water?

Any suggestions are appreciated. Thanks
Mike

 

[PatrickKolby]

I have a lot of standing water in this hose too.

 

[anmut]

Put a block under the tongue jack and get the nose as high as it can go. Gravity should do the rest.

 

[boyd3010]

Put a block under the tongue jack and get the nose as high as it can go. Gravity should do the rest.

Appreciate the reply. That seems pretty straightforward. However, I might have to change the relative elevation of the white hose to the rest of the hoses; if you can see, the white hose in the engine compartment has an upward bend that makes it higher than the black hose. Not sure if that is designed that way or just the texture of my particular boat's build, but I figure with that bend I might have to jack it pretty high.

Now that I think about it, my boat after my last outing, sat on a pretty steep boat launch grade to let water drain out from various places. Probably steeper than you're suggesting from the block/jack gravity process. Standing water for this hose section is still there. Might need to open up hose section to make sure there isn't a blockage.

 

[tdonoughue]

My question is why you want to remove all of the water from the hose? Most of the water should be out of it just by gravity. Some will sit in the low parts of the hose, of course. But with a 77 zip code I figure you are in Texas. Even in a colder climate, there is not going to be enough water trapped in a confined space that it will be able to split the hose or anything. I have never done anything to mine other than rev the engines when I take her out of the water to get some water out and pull the clean-out plugs. And it has been colder in prior years than it looks like it will be this year.

Crank up the bow a bit (as previously suggested) and from there I normally would not worry about it.

 

[boyd3010]

My question is why you want to remove all of the water from the hose? Most of the water should be out of it just by gravity. Some will sit in the low parts of the hose, of course. But with a 77 zip code I figure you are in Texas. Even in a colder climate, there is not going to be enough water trapped in a confined space that it will be able to split the hose or anything. I have never done anything to mine other than rev the engines when I take her out of the water to get some water out and pull the clean-out plugs. And it has been colder in prior years than it looks like it will be this year.

Crank up the bow a bit (as previously suggested) and from there I normally would not worry about it.

I hear ya. You are right. Being in Texas, I'm not too worried about water in lines. I just have a cleaning process where I have easy access to compressed air. Already up in the boat and thought I might be able to just push that water out without having to get out and crank and then decrank.
My main concern with water standing in any drain line is, "is there a blockage?" My original intent of the post was to find out if the drain valve where this drain hose system terminates is a one-way valve that could stand up to a little low-pressure push from compressed air. My gut tells me yes but was curious if anyone actually had tried this.

I'll try to crank method. Thanks y'all!

 

[Sbrown]

To answer your original question, a little air pressure down the line shouldnt hurt anything. The only issue you might have would be whether the water went out the drain in the back, or shot out of the deck scupper back into the boat. As far as I'm aware, theres no check valve preventing that from happening. Maybe someone else knows if there is.

 

[FSH 210 Sport]

New boater (ignorant) question here: I have standing water in a hose line and wanted to know how to properly clear it out without breaking anything.

The water originates in the bow storage compartment (drain hole circled in picture with 5 gallon bucket). The drain hole goes to a black hose that routes to the engine compartment and connects to a white, larger diameter hose. Picture attached of connection. And finally the white, larger hose routes to a valve (scupper?) on the stern of the boat. Picture attached and circled valve.

I'm assuming that I could just push the water out the stern valve with low pressure compressed air that is pushed from the drain hole in the bow compartment. But I didn't want to do that until I asked the forum. I wasn't sure if the stern valve only opens when boat is in water and speeding up boat causes standing water in line to "push" out valve. I didn't know how sensitive, or weak, the valve is to compressed air pushing water through, when boat is on land.

I know I probably could loosen the black hose from the white hose in the engine compartment and suck the water out but I'm not too eager to open up a hose with known standing water that is right over my engines.

Am I right in assuming that low pressure air could push out the water and not break the valve? Is there another way that I'm not thinking about? Or should I not worry about this standing water?

Any suggestions are appreciated. Thanks
MikeView attachment 137645View attachment 137646View attachment 137647

I had the same issue in my 2020...210 FSH Sport. It was definitely bugging me as I could not wash down the deck and under the hatch lid and have the water and debris drain out.

In the forward compartment where your 5 gallon bucket is, on my boat that hatch drain line goes through the center console compartment, in there I found the drain line had a low spot in it. I used a stick on ty wrap mount on the port wall and got that hatch drain line so it was even through the compartment.

In the engine bay where that same black drain line T’s into the white drain line, it was below that white drain line. I re routed the black drain line so the water would flow out Into the white drain line.

Finally, the white drain line had a low spot in it. I used a large ty wrap to make a bit of a cradle so that line had a straight shot to the scupper drain.

After correcting those things the water drains out pretty well!

As far as cleaning out those drain lines, I use my hose end spray nozzle and just shoot the water dow through the hatch lid drain to clear all the debris out when it’s on the trailer nose high and everything drains out.

Hope this helps!

p.s. For me having these lines drain properly is important due to inspections and such for invasive species such as mussels. A trip to Lake Powell is on the docket so it’s even more important for that lake. I do live where it freezes and that is another reason to have them drain properly.

 

[boyd3010]

I had the same issue in my 2020...210 FSH Sport. It was definitely bugging me as I could not wash down the deck and under the hatch lid and have the water and debris drain out.

In the forward compartment where your 5 gallon bucket is, on my boat that hatch drain line goes through the center console compartment, in there I found the drain line had a low spot in it. I used a stick on ty wrap mount on the port wall and got that hatch drain line so it was even through the compartment.

In the engine bay where that same black drain line T’s into the white drain line, it was below that white drain line. I re routed the black drain line so the water would flow out Into the white drain line.

Finally, the white drain line had a low spot in it. I used a large ty wrap to make a bit of a cradle so that line had a straight shot to the scupper drain.

After correcting those things the water drains out pretty well!

As far as cleaning out those drain lines, I use my hose end spray nozzle and just shoot the water dow through the hatch lid drain to clear all the debris out when it’s on the trailer nose high and everything drains out.

Hope this helps!

p.s. For me having these lines drain properly is important due to inspections and such for invasive species such as mussels. A trip to Lake Powell is on the docket so it’s even more important for that lake. I do live where it freezes and that is another reason to have them drain properly.

I really appreciate this advice! I will do that asap. Thanks again.