FSH 210 Sport
Jetboaters Fleet Admiral
- Messages
- 7,275
- Reaction score
- 9,028
- Points
- 512
- Location
- Tranquility Base
- Boat Make
- Yamaha
- Year
- 2020
- Boat Model
- FSH Sport
- Boat Length
- 21
So, a while back I checked the alignment of the buckets and they were good, perfectly straight using a aluminum straight edge.
While I was at it I decided to mess with the articulating keel adjustment since it looked off. This is one of those situations where I did something that I wish I would have done differently. Before I started I should have checked the center to center measurement of the bolts that hold the tie rod, but I didn’t. So the next time on the water after I had “fixed“ the keel adjustment I had a decent pull to the right while cruising, nice going dumb ass. Now, in my defense, the manual states to make it straight with the keel of the boat. By the way, big shout out to @Dixemon for getting the measurement off of his tie rod 12 & 7/16”. So my friend and I used a couple of squares and got the articulating keel perfectly straight with the keel of the boat with the jet pumps set perfectly parallel, and the tie rod measurement was 12&1/2” center to center on the bolts.
So, I got to looking at it and decided to shorten the tie rod by 1/4” to 12&1/4” which brought the articulating keel to the starboard quite a bit since the rod attaches close to the pivot point, which in theory would get pushed straight while underway, causing the buckets to get pulled to the port thereby inducing a turn to the left. Yesterday I tested it and Wa La! It goes almost perfectly straight at cruise, just the slightest drift to the right so I’m thinking I’ll take another 1/8” out of the tie rod. The boat also goes straight at WOT.
And FWIW, the port side rpm’s came up 150-200 as well. The previous day the port side was down almost 200-300 rpms at WOT, but now its within maybe 100-150 rpm of the starboard engine which is running at 8000 rpm.
If these engines were contra rotating you could set everything up straight, this wanting to pull to the right is the torque of the two engines together, that’s why our boats turn easier to one side, I think it is the starboard sitting here typing.
While I was at it I decided to mess with the articulating keel adjustment since it looked off. This is one of those situations where I did something that I wish I would have done differently. Before I started I should have checked the center to center measurement of the bolts that hold the tie rod, but I didn’t. So the next time on the water after I had “fixed“ the keel adjustment I had a decent pull to the right while cruising, nice going dumb ass. Now, in my defense, the manual states to make it straight with the keel of the boat. By the way, big shout out to @Dixemon for getting the measurement off of his tie rod 12 & 7/16”. So my friend and I used a couple of squares and got the articulating keel perfectly straight with the keel of the boat with the jet pumps set perfectly parallel, and the tie rod measurement was 12&1/2” center to center on the bolts.
So, I got to looking at it and decided to shorten the tie rod by 1/4” to 12&1/4” which brought the articulating keel to the starboard quite a bit since the rod attaches close to the pivot point, which in theory would get pushed straight while underway, causing the buckets to get pulled to the port thereby inducing a turn to the left. Yesterday I tested it and Wa La! It goes almost perfectly straight at cruise, just the slightest drift to the right so I’m thinking I’ll take another 1/8” out of the tie rod. The boat also goes straight at WOT.
And FWIW, the port side rpm’s came up 150-200 as well. The previous day the port side was down almost 200-300 rpms at WOT, but now its within maybe 100-150 rpm of the starboard engine which is running at 8000 rpm.
If these engines were contra rotating you could set everything up straight, this wanting to pull to the right is the torque of the two engines together, that’s why our boats turn easier to one side, I think it is the starboard sitting here typing.