DIY Dash 2018 SX240

[AJack]

I purchased Garmin's 64CV GPS Chartplotter with Transducer. I wanted it to be installed on the dash, not by the means of some Ram mounts or drilled on front of one of the other gauges. I knew I wanted something more OEMish, and after seeing a couple other individuals creating their dash out of Starboard, I knew the way.

Materials:
12x27x0.25 inch Starboard from ebay $19.50
#8x32x1.25" stainless steel screws (x7) from Home Depot
Ryobi Countersink bits $9.97

Optional:
Carbon Fiber wrap 12"x60"from eBay $5.95

*The tachometers will be zip tied behind the panel if they are required for the signal to get to the Connect unit
*I beveled the edges with a router
*Difficult to get the unit leveled since there are no straight edges to guide from
*I would assume this Garmin is the largest that would fit

 

[Julian]

Nice job! Looks really clean!

Do you have more photos of the construction in progress? Did you screw into the existing mount holes? Never touch carbon fiber...how did you attach that?

Anything you'd do differently?

 

[AJack]

I'm going to take some pics of it this weekend as I wire it in.

I did use the existing screw holes (x9), but had to cut out two of the holes. The 1/4" starboard is more rigid than the stock plastic, so I wasn't too concerned. The 1/4" starboard provides enough material to countersink the screws to make a more finished look.

Anything I'd do differently? Oh yeah! This was the first time I did anything like this, so there were a lot of moments that I looked back and shook my head:
* When making the cardboard template for the hole, use the empty dash, not the plastic stock dash. I believe this provides a more true understanding of how it will fit. Additionally, the top of the dash (vinyl/plastic/black) is only held on by four nuts, which provides easy access to assist with making the template.
* Since the dash doesn't have any straight lines to guide from, place the starboard cutout in the dash, and then place the paper templates (usually received with the GPS) on it to level the devices. I tried eyeing it level with the starboard cutout out of the boat. If you look closely, the GPS is not level. I will probably buy another piece of starboard to get it done right. For now, I just want to get the boat up and running by this weekend's Gasparilla events.
* Due to the angles of the dash cover, it's better to mount the GPS on the lower portion of the starboard. I vertically centered it on the starboard, which slightly interferes with the black vinyl dash cover. Mounting it lower provides a better angle for things like the GPS cover.
* There's an open space to the left of the GPS, I may try to hard mount a cell phone holder there. I don't foresee needing more switches.
* When cutting fiberglass, cover your arms. I had to cut out two pieces, one was fiberglass.

 

[Bluewater272]

This is something I'd like to do, but I'd never be able to get it done to the standards I would like. Would be amazing if someone could create an exact template of the opening that could be sent to a CNC router. Feel like @JetBoatPilot could sell a bunch of 'em if they were nice. Even just starboard wrapped in a nice high gloss vinyl could look really slick.

 

[AJack]

This is something I'd like to do, but I'd never be able to get it done to the standards I would like. Would be amazing if someone could create an exact template of the opening that could be sent to a CNC router. Feel like @JetBoatPilot could sell a bunch of 'em if they were nice. Even just starboard wrapped in a nice high gloss vinyl could look really slick.

I posted awhile back that I was hoping JBP could do (I even tagged them in my post, far as I know, they could be doing it, but secretly). I would think a blank cover, giving owners the ability to freehand to their liking. I went this route, but I may be re-doing the dash to make it more accurate.

 

[Bluewater272]

Exactly. If I could buy a piece of precision-cut starboard that gave me a clean slate to work with, I'd pay decent money for it.

 

[Bluewater272]

Anybody wanna go in on a CNC machine? I'll figure it out, lol.

 

[Mainah]

Could the factory panel be clamped to the work piece and used as a trim router guide? Could also put a nice small quarter round finish on the final dash piece. Bonus points for using thicker stock and recessing the screen trims.

 

[AJack]

The way the piece is molded, a piece of cardboard doesn't sit flush. I do have an idea about how to make a more accurate template... but I don't have a CNC and will still do it free-hand with my jigsaw.

 

[Mainah]

The way the piece is molded, a piece of cardboard doesn't sit flush. I do have an idea about how to make a more accurate template... but I don't have a CNC and will still do it free-hand with my jigsaw.

I am suggesting using the stock panel as the template. It should have enough flex to be clamped to the starboard directly with multiple clamps or better yet through drill the holes for the mounting bolts and bolt to the starboard. Flip over and use a bottom bearing flush trim router bit with the router shoe on the flat backside of the starboard to cut the work piece. You can even copy the hole for the connext screen this way. Once you have the outer shape cut you can use a variety of other bits to add detail like rabit bits to add a recess for bezels and quarter rounds to make edges nice and clean.

Once done with that overlay the carbon fiber 3m material with the rough cuts done and backing pulled off. Put in a foil lined pan and then in a outdoor grill (this will emit an odor) at about 200 degrees with the lid closed for a few minutes. Finally roll out and edge in while still very warm.

 

[Oscar Cruz]

What about making a fiberglass template over the original one.

 

[Bluewater272]

Would probably need to be a pretty thick panel to recess the connext screen - looks like its already been recessed a fair bit.

 

[AJack]

I am suggesting using the stock panel as the template. It should have enough flex to be clamped to the starboard directly with multiple clamps or better yet through drill the holes for the mounting bolts and bolt to the starboard. Flip over and use a bottom bearing flush trim router bit with the router shoe on the flat backside of the starboard to cut the work piece. You can even copy the hole for the connext screen this way. Once you have the outer shape cut you can use a variety of other bits to add detail like rabit bits to add a recess for bezels and quarter rounds to make edges nice and clean.

Once done with that overlay the carbon fiber 3m material with the rough cuts done and backing pulled off. Put in a foil lined pan and then in a outdoor grill (this will emit an odor) at about 200 degrees with the lid closed for a few minutes. Finally roll out and edge in while still very warm.

Where was this advice at the beginning?!?!? Like I said, this was my venture into anything like this. The Starboard panel cost $20, so not something that put me in the hole. Actually thinking about it, it's still cheaper than buying those Ram Mounts, and this method allows me to go back to stock without any holes.

 

[AJack]

Would probably need to be a pretty thick panel to recess the connext screen - looks like its already been recessed a fair bit.

I'll take a pic of the stock panel, maybe even a video. I flushed mounted the Connext to the starboard.

 

[Mainah]

Where was this advice at the beginning?!?!? Like I said, this was my venture into anything like this. The Starboard panel cost $20, so not something that put me in the hole. Actually thinking about it, it's still cheaper than buying those Ram Mounts, and this method allows me to go back to stock without any holes.

Hope you don’t think I was criticizing. I applaud anyone that does something DIY. Once the conversation started turning to CNC I thought I would throw this in as an alternative to that with nearly the same results. Lots of different methods, tools, and materials could be used to do this. I had been thinking about this as I was considering mounting a simrad go7. I was going to modify the dash hood to make that happen. The fact the garmin fits so well is awesome and if I do decide to install a finder/plotter I will be going with the same unit and placement thanks to you. There are lots of folks who read but don’t post that maybe in the same camp too. Thanks for sharing.

 

[AJack]

Hope you don’t think I was criticizing. I applaud anyone that does something DIY. Once the conversation started turning to CNC I thought I would throw this in as an alternative to that with nearly the same results. Lots of different methods, tools, and materials could be used to do this. I had been thinking about this as I was considering mounting a simrad go7. I was going to modify the dash hood to make that happen. The fact the garmin fits so well is awesome and if I do decide to install a finder/plotter I will be going with the same unit and placement thanks to you. There are lots of folks who read but don’t post that maybe in the same camp too. Thanks for sharing.

In no way did I think you were criticizing, you were providing valuable input. I was being sarcastic about the timing of the information.

 

[2kwik4u]

Anybody wanna go in on a CNC machine? I'll figure it out, lol.

Get me a DXF file and material spec.

I have access to one. We can get a cost worked up for it.

 

[Bluewater272]

Hope you don’t think I was criticizing. I applaud anyone that does something DIY. Once the conversation started turning to CNC I thought I would throw this in as an alternative to that with nearly the same results. Lots of different methods, tools, and materials could be used to do this. I had been thinking about this as I was considering mounting a simrad go7. I was going to modify the dash hood to make that happen. The fact the garmin fits so well is awesome and if I do decide to install a finder/plotter I will be going with the same unit and placement thanks to you. There are lots of folks who read but don’t post that maybe in the same camp too. Thanks for sharing.

The GO7 is only 1/2" taller than this model, eyeballing it I'm pretty sure it would fit just fine (with careful positioning) without having to raise/modify the dash hood.

Get me a DXF file and material spec.

I have access to one. We can get a cost worked up for it.

Very cool. Too damn cold out to go try and remove the dash panel, but when I do I'll see if I can figure that part out.

 

[2kwik4u]

Very cool. Too damn cold out to go try and remove the dash panel, but when I do I'll see if I can figure that part out.

If you can get a "good" template from it, and then take a picture with a ruler laying next to it, I can turn that into a DXF as well. Or fold the template up and mail it to me

 

[AJack]

I have my dash panel out now, but I wouldn't call my template "good", it's rough and works for now. I do want to improve it to make it more OEM quality. I am tempted to get another sheet of starboard. There's a possibility I could just ship the panel.