Don't forget to clean your bilge pump yearly at least!

[Julian]

I just got my 2005 SX 230 out of storage and was putzing around in it over the weekend. One of the things I've been playing with is putting in a bilge alarm. Well, while leaning in and examing the stock 500GPH back pressure bilge, I decided to open it up and see if there was any debris in the screen. YES THERE WAS! It looks like a bunch of old leaves got sucked into it.....easy to clean out....but wasn't on my list of todo's.....

So I thought I'd post on here as a spring cleaning reminder to everyone....

And it wouldn't hurt to actually do a water test to ensure the whole system is working (no kinks in lines or fuses blown/blowing etc).

 

[PEARCE]

I guess I need to do that! I don't think that I've even laid a hand on my bilge pump before. It's so far down there!

 

[Julian]

There are plastic tabs on each side that release the motor housing from the screen bottom. Mine had some debris in it when I bought it.

 

[maboat]

This is a good tip and its even more important if you have the original-style "automatic" bilge. Its a silly design in my opinion. I'm talking about the one that turns itself on every so often to "check" if there is any water to pump, runs for a bit and if it "thinks" there is no water it shuts off. The biggest problem is that it has no sense of water at all. What it does is sense the load on the motor. If something gets past the screen and clogs the impeller, the stupid thing thinks its pumping water and burn itself out (don't ask me how I know).

I'm replacing my OEM pump with a 'proper' water sensor and pump. I'm also going to rewire the dash switch indicator light so it lights when the pump is actually running (as opposed to switched on, but not running)

 

[Stuart Bicknell]

Great idea about replacing the pump "Maboat" can you please let me know how you got on and any pics would be great.

Thanks

stu

 

[maboat]

My bilge pump replacement and dash switch mod was done much earlier in the year. Now my boat is covered up 'til next year so I can't easily get you pics. But here is the pump I replaced it with. It comes with an electronic float switch which senses water level, not load on the pump.
http://www.amazon.com/Johnson-Pump-Cartridge-1000GPH-Switch/dp/B00CUOAEIW/ref=sr_1_26?ie=UTF8&qid=1414549748&sr=8-26&keywords=johnson bilge pumps

 

[KXCam22]

Thats a nice pump. I need one. Cam.

 

[Big Shasta]

I replaced my pump with a RULE 750 water sensing pump. Doesn't have to run to check for water (agreed, dumbest design ever) and I wired it straight to the battery. No more forgetting to turn on the switch or having to leave the lighted switch on if it's docked in the water overnight.

 

[txav8r]

@maboat , did you get around to rewiring the switch to only light when the pump was running? If so, was that straight forward? Can a laymen do it? lol

 

[maboat]

@maboat , did you get around to rewiring the switch to only light when the pump was running? If so, was that straight forward? Can a laymen do it? lol

Yep I did it. Fairly straightforward. You do have to run a third wire from the pump to the helm (1 wire in addition to the existing 2 wires). And you may or may not need to swap the switch body - depends on which style they used that year.

The trick is that the dash switch must have isolated terminals for the light. All mine were this way from the factory. Don't know if thats changed in newer models. I know Carling (the switch brand) makes both types. Its easy to swap out the switch body if needed.

Even though my existing switch body had isolated bulb terminals, I swapped the standard two position off-on rocker for a three position on-off-on rocker (similar to the anchor/nav switch). So now my bilge has three positions:
1. Always off
2. Automatic (water sensing)
3. Always on

The bulb lights only when the pump is running, regardless of the switch position

 

[davel501]

Keep meaning to do this project. Thinking 2 bilge pumps, primary and just in case, wired directly to the battery so that I can reuse the switch on the helm for my underwater lights.

 

[JetPowered]

Maboat, in what situation would you see wanting to keep you bilge constantly running in your new always on mode? I would think accidentally turning this on would kill the pump if it were to run while dry.

I'm think that when I get a new pump, I might add in an electronic beeper that would sound when the pump is activating. Nothing loud and obnoxious, but it might give you a heads up if you are about to have bigger water problems.

 

[maboat]

You are basically correct. Perhaps calling it "always on" is not the best wording. Its more like "manual override". The switch operates like this: AUTO - OFF - MANUAL and yes, I normally only use the AUTO position.

Its not really necessary for a Manual setting, and I really only did it ... because I can! :roll:
Whenever I have something that is "Automatic" I like the option to manually override if I want to.
A case for this would be on the rare occasion that the water sensor fails. I can hit the switch to force the pump to run.

 

[Big Shasta]

You are basically correct. Perhaps calling it "always on" is not the best wording. Its more like "manual override". The switch operates like this: AUTO - OFF - MANUAL and yes, I normally only use the AUTO position.

Its not really necessary for a Manual setting, and I really only did it ... because I can! :roll:
Whenever I have something that is "Automatic" I like the option to manually override if I want to.
A case for this would be on the rare occasion that the water sensor fails. I can hit the switch to force the pump to run.

I can see this being useful. For my Rule 750, It does sometimes take quite a bit of water to kick the sensor on. 3-4 inches. You could just kick it on to get the bottom couple inches without waiting for it to kick on.

I test mine regularly by just running a hose in the bilge until it kicks on so I doubt I would see the need, but if I was out on the water and the sensor wasn't working, it would be nice to be able to kick it on.

 

[Julian]

Bump....

This is especially true for those of you (like me) with new boats! Have you ever noticed all the fillings coming out of your drain hole? Imagine that in the bottom of your bilge pump! Think it will work well with that in there?

 

[Liquid Therapy]

Bump....

This is especially true for those of you (like me) with new boats! Have you ever noticed all the fillings coming out of your drain hole? Imagine that in the bottom of your bilge pump! Think it will work well with that in there?

I was just thinking the same thing as I read through this thread! That's definitely on my to-do list next time I uncover the boat (hopefully this weekend).

 

[Julian]

This is definately something I plan to do this weekend in advance of the #bimini trip! [USERGROUP=14]@Bimini[/USERGROUP]

The last thing you want is a bilge that is either not working, or working below full capacity because the screen is clogged with debris!

 

[MrMoose]

@Julian, please let us know what you find. Since the pump inlet sits off of the bottom of the hull (that's why it usually takes at least 2 gallons before it will pick up), I'm kind of wondering if gravity and sloshing is enough to keep the pump screen clear.

 

[Amar Nanduri]

How difficult is it to replace the stock OEM pump motor housing from the screen bottom with a powerful motor 1000 gph capacity? I do not want to drill any holes in the hull at the last minute. Which brand does Yamaha generally use ?

 

[Coheeba]

Most pumps have a removable bottom/screen and this is usually what you screw on, then the pump snaps on and off the screen to check for debris. Just use 5200 to secure the bottom/screen, let it dry for 24 hr. and your good to go GTG.