Drilling a hole in the bottom of my boat. Any tips or tricks.

[thcole]

For the last few days I have been working on installing a ballast system I bought from Spencer at Wakemakers.com. In the next day or two I will be drilling a 1 inch hole in the back of the boat for the intake. I plan to reverse the drill to score the fiberglass first then cut through the transom. Then use 4200 to seal the area as well as possible when I install the intake. Any hints or tricks out there to help with the process and maybe ease my mind a little.

 

[jcyamaharider]

You are doing the right thing, don't worry about it.

 

[OperationROL]

Your plan sounds like a winner.

 

[Glassman]

For the last few days I have been working on installing a ballast system I bought from Spencer at Wakemakers.com. In the next day or two I will be drilling a 1 inch hole in the back of the boat for the intake. I plan to reverse the drill to score the fiberglass first then cut through the transom. Then use 4200 to seal the area as well as possible when I install the intake. Any hints or tricks out there to help with the process and maybe ease my mind a little.

If you don't plan on removing the part you are installing, use 5200 fast cure. Much better below the water line IMO. Tape the spot before you drill. Have fun!

 

[thcole]

Thats where I was planning on putting the intake at. I was thinking about putting a 90 on the intake then a riser up to a shut off valve. Do you happen to have a picture of the inside of the bilge.

 

[thcole]

I do have some 5200 left from when I replaced my Scupper, is it significantly better.

 

[Glassman]

I do have some 5200 left from when I replaced my Scupper, is it significantly better.

That's a question, right?

From 3M website:

4200FC White bonds and seals fiberglass, gel coat and wood. Ideal for rub-rails, stern-joints, deck and through-hull fittings, and access plates. Medium strength allows for disassembly.

5200 White adhesive sealant is extremely strong, retains its strength above or below water line. Stays flexible too - allows for structural movement. Has excellent resistance to weathering and salt water.

The one thing they leave out is that the 5200 is practically permanent. I once had to use a 5 lb. sledge to remove deck hardware that was bedded using 5200. That shit doesn't give. The 4200 can be removed much easier.
Either one will "Probably" do the job at hand, but since this is a pump fitting it could be subjected to stress or torque when the pump is activated. I'd hate to see it start leaking at that location, it would be a pain to fix.

 

[jcyamaharider]

Thats where I was planning on putting the intake at. I was thinking about putting a 90 on the intake then a riser up to a shut off valve. Do you happen to have a picture of the inside of the bilge.

I do not have a picture but that is exactly what I did.

 

[KXCam22]

Here is a shot of the inner area before the intake was added and a second showing my intake with the 9o and shutoff valve. I had planned to go vertical and put the shutoff higher but it was harder to fit. My goal was to hardpipe up to the shutoff. Cam.

ke this?