giroux68
Jetboaters Captain
- Messages
- 438
- Reaction score
- 587
- Points
- 202
- Location
- Cumming, Georgia
- Boat Make
- Yamaha
- Year
- 2011
- Boat Model
- AR
- Boat Length
- 24
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Last nice bit is the through hull AC Plug that you can reach from the dock/lift/trailer. It will test your nerve drilling through the gelcoat.
Just do it!
I now have through NOCO through hull plugs on both sides of my boat into a Y adaptor because my slip situation changed). For my year removing the tuning fork emblem on each side and placing those there looks factory. I cut access flaps in the mooring cover with a hot knife.
Hey - do you have a link to the Y Adapter you used? Unless my brain is not working, I would need to have two male ends and one female end, but my google-fu is coming up short (and I feel like that is something that might not be sold due to the potential an idiot to plug both ends into a hot source).
You google fu is just fine as your are correct this is not something that is sold. You can cut the female end off a cord and add a male end create a small double ended male cord. You can buy replacement cord ends at any local hardware store or online. Just make sure to get the hot, neutral and ground leads correct. Swapping neutral and hot may lead to tripping a gfci/afci. Swapping ground for hot could be worse.
So you plug the wirthco into a receptacle, place charge clips onto ‘starter’ battery? That’s it? Just to get started I’d be willing to do that. Seems like that can come in handy for vehicle batteries too.Another option is to use a smart battery switch. I have one on my side by side. It charges the main battery until it's charged, then it charges the aux battery. No switching needed. I hook the charger to the main and it turns on and charges all. It's only 150a so not ideal for starting, but your main battery will never drain because you don't have to remember to move switches. I'm doing this on the boat for sure.
WirthCo 20092 Battery Doctor 125... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0058SGDFK?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Nope. That goes between the main and the aux to replace the 1, 2, both switch. Wire a plug for the charger to the main battery and it will charge that until it's charged, then charge the aux. No switching = nothing to remember. Wire the stereo and amps off the aux and you never have to worry about killing the battery. Add in a low voltage disconnect for about 20 bucks and you have a fullproof system that allows you to listen to music until you run out of battery, with no battery damage and nothing to think about. Also saves money for a dual bank battery charger, but i always set the switch to both and hook up a single charger. Ive used one charger in parallel for multiple vehicles many times, but I've been going towards single charger because I've had a few failures in the chargers. I'm also switching from no name smart chargers to battery tenders (3 or 5a) because i haven't had any of those fail.So you plug the wirthco into a receptacle, place charge clips onto ‘starter’ battery? That’s it? Just to get started I’d be willing to do that. Seems like that can come in handy for vehicle batteries too.
Any chance you could take a picture of the setup to help me emulate and installation?This is the same exact charger I have. Works great. At @swatski advice, I installed the https://www.amazon.com/NOCO-GCP1-12...W2ATRMTX705&psc=1&refRID=FX9K5YA9BW2ATRMTX705. Plug it in and walk away.