Enforcing Trailer Guide Posts - What’s The Best Way?

[swatski]

My guide posts are moving no matter how much I tighten the bolts holding the plates. Usually not a big deal but I’m tired of it.
After a recent trip with trailer bouncing without a load the brackets moved a lot!
This is a painted shorlandr trailer, so - do I drill through the frame and put a large bolt through? Or use U- bolts? Any tricks you guy could share?
TIA!


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[BigAbe75]

My bracket looks different. I think I read that the crossed Ubolt like this is supposed to help with that problem?? I’m also mounted on the bottom, not sure if that would matter though.

 

[swatski]

My bracket looks different. I think I read that the crossed Ubolt like this is supposed to help with that problem?? I’m also mounted on the bottom, not sure if that would matter though.

View attachment 93733

I may need to try this again, I initially purchased those (recommended here for Shorlandr trailers...) but they were too short and needed to be returned.

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[zipper]

5200

 

[swatski]

5200

lol, too simple.
Yes, I always keep a tube in a freezer! Thank you, Sir. I don't see how that wouldn't work.

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[WildBillF1]

My Trailer Valet had a tendency to shift sometimes. Since I put this double-sided 3M tape between the bracket and trailer, it hasn't moved at all. I think it would work the same for you if put between the guide post and brackets. 3M Scotch 1 in. x 1.66 yds. Permanent Double Sided Extreme Mounting Tape-414DC-SF - The Home Depot

 

[Dixie Highway]

My guide posts are moving no matter how much I tighten the bolts holding the plates. Usually not a big deal but I’m tired of it.
After a recent trip with trailer bouncing without a load the brackets moved a lot!
This is a painted shorlandr trailer, so - do I drill through the frame and put a large bolt through? Or use U- bolts? Any tricks you guy could share?
TIA!


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What does the movement look like (direction)? Is it front to back, side to side, or up and down? What material is the guide post? If side to side, then bracing the post against the side of the trailer should help. Front to back you are limited by surface area, though a well placed thick “L” bracket could help. Those brackets sandwiching the trailer frame look a bit thin to me, for supporting such a long lever basically. Can you ditch the bottom brackets and go with longer u bolts? You’re a pretty smart dude from what I’ve seen on here, I’d manually shake the posts (mimicking the movement while driving as closely as possible) and just see where the weak spots are (movement). Maybe some metal shims in between the bracket and post? It’s kind of janky but aluminum cans make great shims as the material is very thin, that is if the post are Al. If steel I might be inclined to weld some extra support in the form of some gussets. Triangulation is the key to rigidity most of the time.

 

[Liveto99]

How about a screw or bolt in the guide post on the outside and the inside of the trailer frame and that way it would not allow it to move. You could even just try to self tapping screws and later remove them drill a hole and put a bolt through if you wanted. The head of the bolt or screw should prevent it from sliding. Yes it is front to back maybe a wrap of the weatherstripping underneath the clamps and it would prevent sliding.

 

[BigAbe75]

I may need to try this again, I initially purchased those (recommended here for Shorlandr trailers...) but they were too short and needed to be returned.

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Weird! I clicked that link, my Amazon app opened and told me that I bought that item on April 15. Assuming that is correct, that’s the same set that I installed on my trailer. Shorelandr 24’ boat, mfg 2020 model (trailer not boat that is). You can see I have nearly 1/2” threads showing below the nut.

 

[BigAbe75]

My guide posts are moving no matter how much I tighten the bolts holding the plates. Usually not a big deal but I’m tired of it.
After a recent trip with trailer bouncing without a load the brackets moved a lot!
This is a painted shorlandr trailer, so - do I drill through the frame and put a large bolt through? Or use U- bolts? Any tricks you guy could share?
TIA!
View attachment 93732

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So.... you have 2 extra steel plates that I don’t have. My tube rests right on the frame. And, the Ubolts go around the other side of the frame directly. How much too short were those ubolts? Would that account for the difference in length?

 

[Liveto99]

I looked at the picture closely I see it’s moving to the rear maybe one wrap of flexseal and then tighten all the bolts and such on top of that that or grip tape maybe would provide enough friction to prevent it from slipping back.Or one self tapping screw on the top rail if it is sank in 5200 if no water can get to the steel in the trailer it will not rust. Is the inside of the frame painted on the trailer?

 

[swatski]

So.... you have 2 extra steel plates that I don’t have. My tube rests right on the frame. And, the Ubolts go around the other side of the frame directly. How much too short were those ubolts? Would that account for the difference in length?

I think that would have worked...

I may have rushed to return those, they were 6” and clearly not fitting the setup I got which also came with bolts that were too short. I just bought 8” bolts and trimmed them to not stick out too much.
Darned.

I appreciate the advice here very much!!!

Edit: yeah, the one time I actually follow instructions!

Oh well.
My wife is screaming at the screen, St Louis Blues are playing. Game 7...

I needed a break.

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[swatski]

Those brackets sandwiching the trailer frame look a bit thin to me, for supporting such a long lever basically. Can you ditch the bottom brackets and go with longer u bolts?

Those plates really are super thin for the job, and they just bend over time, the whole set up is a bit shaky. I think in a more sturdy trailer might be okay but this is a Yamaha Shorlandr junk which constantly shakes fender bolts off...

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[swatski]

My bracket looks different. I think I read that the crossed Ubolt like this is supposed to help with that problem?? I’m also mounted on the bottom, not sure if that would matter though.

View attachment 93733

Need to go back to this - exactly like in your picture.
Thanks, guys!

Edit: the frame is still 5” high, so that should work.
Looks like they coat it different though, or did you do the (truck bed?) coating aftermarket?

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[BigAbe75]

Need to go back to this - exactly like in your picture.
Thanks, guys!

Edit: the frame is still 5” high, so that should work.
Looks like they coat it different though, or did you do the (truck bed?) coating aftermarket?

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I wondered about that actually. No, it’s just the black painted trailer, but it feels like powder coat to me. Has the same texture of my tower.

Keep in mind, I’ve only had them installed for a few weeks on this trailer. But, same set of guides (with stock/shorter ubolts) were on my 210’s MFI galvanized trailer for 2 years and never moved.

However, the MFI has a rear step so I had to drill 2 holes in the step for the bolts. So that setup couldn’t have moved front to back.

 

[swatski]

I wondered about that actually. No, it’s just the black painted trailer, but it feels like powder coat to me. Has the same texture of my tower.

Keep in mind, I’ve only had them installed for a few weeks on this trailer. But, same set of guides (with stock/shorter ubolts) were on my 210’s MFI galvanized trailer for 2 years and never moved.

However, the MFI has a rear step so I had to drill 2 holes in the step for the bolts. So that setup couldn’t have moved front to back.

This is great!
Very good discussion and ideas, I think i have a plan!


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[BigAbe75]

One last thought on this... I remember from some of your wake enhancement projects that you made a new welder friend. What about having him make you some heavier duty brackets that won’t bend as you tighten the bolts down? I’m wondering if my bracket that goes around the tube might not be a little thicker than yours. Maybe they switched their mfg method at some point and made a thicker bracket and stopped using those 2nd and 3rd pieces??

Also, I have the Smith guides. Same brand as the ubolts above. (Only mentioned to make sure we are comparing apples to apples). Purchased mine right at 2 years ago, from overtons.

 

[swatski]

One last thought on this... I remember from some of your wake enhancement projects that you made a new welder friend. What about having him make you some heavier duty brackets that won’t bend as you tighten the bolts down? I’m wondering if my bracket that goes around the tube might not be a little thicker than yours. Maybe they switched their mfg method at some point and made a thicker bracket and stopped using those 2nd and 3rd pieces??

Also, I have the Smith guides. Same brand as the ubolts above. (Only mentioned to make sure we are comparing apples to apples). Purchased mine right at 2 years ago, from overtons.

All good thoughts! Mine are VeVes I think, and the lights - I'm not sure I think those are Smith, work great. I like the lights and the length of the guide poles.
Regardless of bolts I definitely want to get a more heavy duty plates/brackets. The ones I have now are just bending under stress loads.

BTW - what a Blues Game!!!??? Unreal.
Now that they won... It means just more "single parenting" for me (Kate is crazzzzy about this game), lolol.

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[biffdotorg]

Swatski,

I had Vee Vee guides on my last trailer. One important step is to use the set of holes closest together. Be sure there is minimal gap between the bolts and the frame of the trailer. As you can see by the scratches, it is allowing the poles to sway in and out just enough to allow the bracket to slide.

If possible, see if you can move the inside pair of bolts to a closer hole to the frame. This will cut down on sway. VeeVee put bolt holes in the plates at common widths to the most common trailer beam widths. If you go too wide, it leaves a gap that allows sway.

If it is close, but not quite, a person could grind very shallow grooves on the inside of the trailer beam to allow the bolts past and also that groove would keep the plates from sliding.

Good luck.

PS: Shoot a photo from above the plate, if you see daylight through a closer bolt hole, move them in, and your issue should be resolved.

 

[swatski]

I had Vee Vee guides on my last trailer. One important step is to use the set of holes closest together. Be sure there is minimal gap between the bolts and the frame of the trailer. As you can see by the scratches, it is allowing the poles to sway in and out just enough to allow the bracket to slide.

Yes, good call.
I measured everything agaian and looked at what's available. I like the heavy duty VeVe guides but it looks like I can't use the CE Smith kit that @BigAbe75 has as it will not fit around the bulky 1-1/2" square tube of the VeVes'.
I'll need to get new bolts (I will have to cut mine off) and move them closer to the frame - as in the manufacturer's pic:


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