Engine Compartment Keeps Opening

[ScarabJoe]

Hi all,

My Scarab 255 is only 2 months old but I have this nagging issue - when driving over 40 mph on the trailer the engine compartment hatch unlocks and opens. Then I have to find a place to pull over on I-4 to close it. Over and over. It happens every 5 miles or so.

Any ideas how to stop the hatch from opening on its own? I've tried gently closing it, slamming it, cleaning the pin and latch, pulling the locking latch to make sure it was closed, and I even brought it to the dealer who had no idea how to fix it.

It even opened while on the water at abut 30 mph - scare the bejesus out of my wife!

Thanks!

 

[Luc Lafreniere]

Not an owner of the 255... I have a 165. Not sure if the latch is the same, but I remembered somebody else mentioning this a while back. Found the post (search for the word "latch" on that page). Something about a nut. But if it doesn't do the trick, may be worth contacting him and see if that did fix it. https://jetboaters.net/threads/new-member-2017-scarab-255-ho-impulse.12258/page-2

 

[ScarabJoe]

Thanks for the info. The dealer is ordering a new latch but I'll try tightening the nut in the meanwhile.

 

[Craigz]

I had the same thing happen 3 times while out on my sea trial. They are replacing the latch supposedly before delivery

 

[ScarabJoe]

Thanks for the info. I'll definitely make the dealer replace the latch.

 

[Scottdip]

My dealer replaced my latch along with adding two small white bungee's as a backup. I apologize for not having a picture.

 

[ScarabJoe]

Dealer ordered latch. Should be repaired next week. I'll mention the bungees as back up. Thanks.

 

[Craigz]

Just wanted to provide an update. I received my boat and had it out a couple times with the new latch without issue. I'm assuming mine was a faulty latch

 

[ScarabJoe]

Thanks Craigz. I take my boat in Friday for latch replacement. I guess they have to rip off the swim mat in the process so that will be replaced as well.

 

[ScarabJoe]

Update - got the boat back from the dealer with the new latch installed. The post on the bottom is a little bigger now. So far no issues with the seat flying up. I guess it needed to be replaced.

 

[Craigz]

Yes, mine hasn't had any issues with that either

 

[Luc Lafreniere]

So, I just came across this problem this spring. I think I may have figured out how to fix it (assuming your latch isn't actually defective). Posting here since it seems like an appropriate place for others to find it, apologies for reviving an old thread.

My engine hatch on my 165 kept popping open, but only while trailering or on the water. Not in the driveway of course. I slapped on the hatch, wiggled/jiggled it and couldn't make it happen. Finally I hit just above the middle seat on the fiberglass pretty hard with my palm and it opened. Essentially punching towards the stern hard (see photos). This makes the metal post tilt towards the stern ever so slightly. The latch has a metal pin towards the bow, so when the post is moved towards the stern, the pin loses its grip and the hatch opens.

First thing I did, loosen the latch itself and re-tighten while ensuring it's as FAR as can go towards the stern. I had very little play here, but pushed on it while tightening.

Second, the post should be as far forward as it can go, again, very little play here too.

The combination of the above two though makes sure the pin goes in as deep as possible into the groove of the post.

Finally though, and I suspect the main reason why some of these hatches may be opening has to do with the orientation of the post. You'll noticed that in the photo, just underneath the rounded top where it catches, there's a metal part that has two sides that are rounded, and two opposite sides that are flat. I noticed my post was actually oriented so the flat spot was towards the bow/stern. Rounded parts were towards the sides of the boat. If the flat spots are towards the bow/stern, then a punch to the fiberglass bending it towards the stern will actually twist the fiberglass and the post with it, thus releasing. There's nothing preventing the fiberglass/post from twisting towards the stern. BUT, if the rounded part is towards the bow/stern, the extra metal acts as a stopper. No matter how hard I punched the fiberglass (without breaking my hand), the fiberglass doesn't twist/post doesn't move. The latch stays on really well!

Anyways, thought this could prove useful to those of you out there that encounter this problem. The post definitely loosens with time and needs to be re-tightened. Make sure it's oriented this way and hopefully it resolves the problem.

 

[Stantm]

Happend to me too, I raised the post like two turns. No problems after that.

 

[David Willems]

So, I just came across this problem this spring. I think I may have figured out how to fix it (assuming your latch isn't actually defective). Posting here since it seems like an appropriate place for others to find it, apologies for reviving an old thread.

My engine hatch on my 165 kept popping open, but only while trailering or on the water. Not in the driveway of course. I slapped on the hatch, wiggled/jiggled it and couldn't make it happen. Finally I hit just above the middle seat on the fiberglass pretty hard with my palm and it opened. Essentially punching towards the stern hard (see photos). This makes the metal post tilt towards the stern ever so slightly. The latch has a metal pin towards the bow, so when the post is moved towards the stern, the pin loses its grip and the hatch opens.

First thing I did, loosen the latch itself and re-tighten while ensuring it's as FAR as can go towards the stern. I had very little play here, but pushed on it while tightening.

Second, the post should be as far forward as it can go, again, very little play here too.

The combination of the above two though makes sure the pin goes in as deep as possible into the groove of the post.

Finally though, and I suspect the main reason why some of these hatches may be opening has to do with the orientation of the post. You'll noticed that in the photo, just underneath the rounded top where it catches, there's a metal part that has two sides that are rounded, and two opposite sides that are flat. I noticed my post was actually oriented so the flat spot was towards the bow/stern. Rounded parts were towards the sides of the boat. If the flat spots are towards the bow/stern, then a punch to the fiberglass bending it towards the stern will actually twist the fiberglass and the post with it, thus releasing. There's nothing preventing the fiberglass/post from twisting towards the stern. BUT, if the rounded part is towards the bow/stern, the extra metal acts as a stopper. No matter how hard I punched the fiberglass (without breaking my hand), the fiberglass doesn't twist/post doesn't move. The latch stays on really well!

Anyways, thought this could prove useful to those of you out there that encounter this problem. The post definitely loosens with time and needs to be re-tightened. Make sure it's oriented this way and hopefully it resolves the problem.

Just bought a new 2020 scarab 19ID. Scared my 7-year-old girl to death when the hatch opened unexpectantly at full throttle. I
will apply what you had recommended to do with the latch and pin! Thanks

 

[JetBoat195G]

Ok, so I’ve had my Scarab 195G for almost four years and never had the engine hatch open unexpectedly, so I thought that my boat just didn’t have this issue. I was wrong. The post that holds the hatch down was loose, so I tightened it. The hatch opened unexpectedly while trailering during the next two trips. I’ve become convinced that Luc’s instructions to make sure that the rounded parts are towards the bow/stern are spot on. The first picture below isn’t great, but the bright spot shows what appears to be wear from when I mistakenly tightened the post with the flat facing the bow. I’ve corrected this, and now have the rounded parts towards the bow/stern.

The post seems to come loose as the nut and washer sink into the supporting wooden block behind the fiberglass. You can see this in the second picture. As an extra measure, I have added an extra 10mm stainless washer, and a 10mm stainless fender washer (both from Ace Hardware) in the hope that this will minimize the sinking into the wooden block, and the resulting loosening of the post. You can see the fender washer in the third picture. You probably need to be careful not to tighten it too much to prevent damaging the fiberglass. Time will tell if this helps keep the post from loosening.

Sorry all the pictures are upside down, but you have to be upside down to see this location.

 

[Luc Lafreniere]

Some have added stuff like this. Rubber latches, etc. In case you're interested.

 

[JetBoat195G]

Thanks. I'm thinking that's the back up plan.

 

[Beebermd]

Had it happen all the time. Couldn’t see it while towing so it would just flap in the breeze. Had multiple gel coat cracks from the flexing. But it was an easy fix. It has 3 rods that open the compartment. I thought it was overkill, so I took out the middle one. Still opens easy and stays up. Hasn’t opened on its own once since.