Engine won't start Debug list, Engine Codes, and Battery Voltage States

[jetboater4life]

• A) Engine wont turn over at all
  1. Shift Lever not in Neutral
     • Move throttle to Neutral
     • Wiggle throttle to make sure contact is clean
  2. Cleanout Hatch switches or wiring loose (swap switches/connectors if just one engine)
     • Have someone stand on hatch and retry
     • Have someone open hatch and manually depress buttons
     • Tape a dime or nickel to hatch where button hits to temp try
     • Adjust button height
  3. Blown Fuse
     • Replace fuse under cap on ECU on back wall of engine compartment (should be a spare in there--replace spare!)
     • Check fuse inside small black box near batteries, usually screwed to the divider wall. (Follow main +Positive cable from battery to find fuse)
  4. Corrosion on Negative terminals or loose terminals at the battery
     • Tighten well
     • Clean and apply dielectric grease
  5. Starter Component failure
     • Check wire connections at starter
  6. Battery not fully charged (with a partial charge blower/radio may work, but there may not be enough power to turn the starter).
  7. Pump/Impeller locked up due to obstruction/corrosion etc -pull pump and see if impeller spins.
• B) Engine turns over but won't start
  1. Kill Switch at helm not seated properly
     • Pull lanyard on and off a few times/wiggle it ect
     • Swap connectors on back of switch if just one engine)
  2. Cleanout Hatch switches or wiring loose-a bad connection might cause the starter to stutter. A bad switch or mis-aligned connection will result in no cranking or sporadic cranking.
     • Swap switches/connectors if just one engine
  3. Fuel tank empty
  4. Fuel Tank-water or contaminents in fuel or pressure is low
  5. Spark Plugs fouled or caps not tight
  6. Crank case filled with water and/or fuel
  7. Fuel Filter clogged or water filled
  8. Battery connections loose or corroded (yes we've seen it happen-turns over wont start)
  9. Damaged/Malfunctioning ECU
• Engine Codes and Code Symptom
  • 01 No malfunction
  • 13 Incorrect pickup coil signal
  • 15 Incorrect engine temp sensor signal
  • 18 Incorrect throttle position sensor signal
  • 19 Incorrect battery voltage
  • 23 Incorrect intake air temperature sensor signal
  • 24 Incorrect cam position sensor signal
  • 29 Incorrect intake air pressure sensor signal
  • 48 Incorrect data transmission
  • 54 Incorrect bypass valve motor signal
  • 63 Incorrect intake air system signal
  • 68 No wake
• Voltage State of Battery Charge
  • 12.6+ 100%
  • 12.5 90%
  • 12.42 80%
  • 12.32 70%
  • 12.20 60%
  • 12.06 50%
  • 11.9 40%
  • 11.75 30%
  • 11.58 20%
  • 11.31 10%
  • 10.5 0%

Updated by admin to add B8 and B9

 

[Bruce]

Great contribution, Thank you!

 

[Julian]

Yes! Great contribution! Might suggest that you put "shift lever not in neutral", and move that to the top of the list!

Will be adding this to the FAQ!

 

[jetboater4life]

Yes! Great contribution! Might suggest that you put "shift lever not in neutral", and move that to the top of the list!

Will be adding this to the FAQ!

fixed.

 

[Magic]

Was also going to suggest that.. Order of most likely/easiest to check....
Looks good to me! Nice work!

 

[itsdgm]

Great help. Thanks for compiling the checklist.

 

[waterboy]

Excellent list. Something else to maybe add. Corrosion on Negative terminals or loose terminals at the battery.

 

[txav8r]

It is a simple list and I have used it to troubleshoot my boat and others for years. Thanks for putting this all in one spot!

 

[Magic]

It is a simple list and I have used it to troubleshoot my boat and others for years. Thanks for putting this all in one spot!

I agree. Pretty much now all this is committed to memory, but if I was new to the boat having a power lever out of position would have driven me crazy if I didn't have a flow to follow!

 

[jetboater4life]

Excellent list. Something else to maybe add. Corrosion on Negative terminals or loose terminals at the battery.

Updated.

 

[Chris BeLieu]

New to the site and the jet-boat world. The posts on here have been a great help for me trouble-shooting the little problems I have encountered with my used SR230. I ran into a problem the other day that I would like to share, as I have not seen a reference to it on the site (or I just couldn't find it!).

Had a no-start in the starboard engine as we were about to take off for a day on the Chesapeake. The engines had each started fine on the flush the weekend before, so I was surprised by the lack of any action upon turning the key - no click, no sound whatsoever. I immediately thought clean-out hatch switches, but swapping the starboard switch plug for the port side offered no solution. One thing I am impressed with on this boat is the quality of connectors used. They (most) appear to be well-sealed units. After a few other dead ends, I then looked at the dead-man switch by the throttle controls. There are four wires - two for each engine - and they join the main harness with bullet connectors that are not sealed from the elements! Corrosion was the culprit and new, waterproof connectors solved the issue. Hope this helps someone - you guys have already helped me a bunch!

 

[Boat Crazy]

@Chris BeLieu . Welcome

 

[Chris BeLieu]

@Chris BeLieu . Welcome

Thanks!

 

[txav8r]

Welcome aboard @Chris BeLieu , those switches have bit a few guys before, glad you found the issue solution and posted up your findings.

 

[Lspeedss]

Excellent list and in a great matter of fact format. Great job!
@Julian, how about creating a strictly "Troubleshooting" section just for this kind of info. Quick and direct to find for when we are in bright sun bobbing around on our boats?

 

[Julian]

This is an awesome list, but we should also add the diagnostic suggestions.....like....

Cleanout Hatch switches - To diagnose: have 2nd person open hatch and press down switch all the way

 

[jetboater4life]

You have my permission to make appropriate modifications at any time.

 

[txav8r]

I kind of like another suggestion about standing on the clean out tray vs depressing the switches. Seems an easier diagnostic and stepping on and starting and stepping off and it killing it is a good identifier. So in terms of putting all of this type of thing in the list, it gets pretty congested. Some of the tips in troubleshooting are not descriptive in themselves but list the issue to check. The how to check is another list entirely I think. Because any one of those start issues is more in depth than what is listed. I notice that it is even more descriptive than Yamahas list. Example:
Yamaha says "shift lever" and Derick's list says "Shift Lever not in Neutral". Derick has improved it, but not covered all the bases either. It could be the shift lever neutral switch itself that is out of adjustment or failed. Same with any of the items. The list will grow into a document instead of a list. You could almost write a whole article on each of the steps! It is a good list and I have posted it too, many times. You just can't cover it all!

 

[Julian]

Seems to me like B2 "Cleanout Hatch switches or wiring loose (swap switches/connectors if just one engine)" is not accurate. Pretty sure if there is a problem with the hatch switches the engine won't turn over....so this would only apply in section A? Correct?

 

[Murf'n'surf]

You are correct @Julian. It may cause a sportatic turn over if contact is made and lost.