Exceeding hitch rating

[Pro Build]

Has anyone ever seen or known of a receiver hitch that failed due to overloading while towing a boat or similar trailer. I keep reading that the class 3 receivers are over the rating with a 24' boat/trailer, but I spent over an hour looking on YouTube for any examples of one breaking or failing.

 

[haknslash]

Why risk it? Insurance would most certainly deny a claim if they find your equipment isn’t rated to pull what you’re hauling.

As for pics just google failed hitch from exceeding tow capacity or something along those lines. That’s what I did and found a few examples very quickly. Also found that anyone who has a 2008 GM truck should replace their hitch no questions as there was an issue with that year of GM trucks and SUVs.

Known GM hitch failure

 

[BigAbe75]

@haknslash do you have more info on that last bit? I have an ‘08 Tahoe.

 

[Luc Lafreniere]

So of interest, I'm in Ontario Canada. I had this question about exceeding tow capabilities, so I called my insurance provider and asked. The answer I was given was that I'd still be insured. The example he gave me was "well, for example, if your car is rated for 5 passengers at a total of 900lbs (Subaru Forester), and you have 5 adults weighing 200lbs each and you also add some cargo with an extra 200lbs, you are well above the weight limit of the car. Would you be less insured if you had an accident? No."

I thought it was a very good point. Although exceeding weight limits is really not smart, insurance, at least in Ontario, Canada will cover it. BUT, he did warn me that the police COULD charge you with having an unsafe load. This obviously happens when an accident occurs, but they could charge you during a spot check or something (although less likely if it's not obvious).

Anyways thought it was worth making this comment on insurance.

***DISCLAIMER*** I am NOT a qualified insurance adjuster, neither do I work in this field. lol I'm just reporting what I was told when I specifically asked if I happened to tow over capacity (trailer with boat) and had an accident. I was very clear about the issue with the insurance company and they were very clear that I would still be insured just fine.

 

[why_fly_high]

Your insurance covers you if you do all sorts of dumb stuff. I'm pretty sure your insurance will cover you, but........ This is a scenario I use for myself when considering these things. What if someone pulls in front of you. It is their fault but all sorts of bad things happen, death, bad injury, etc. The investigation proves you are overloaded. Now you are going to court to prove it was still their fault. Your insurance will defend you but depending on your insurance limits they may just choose to pay your limits than fight it and then they are done. The other party wants more and takes you to court, after all, you are a rich boat owner. You are on your own at this point.

 

[haknslash]

@haknslash do you have more info on that last bit? I have an ‘08 Tahoe.

I found it from this RV link RV.Net Open Roads Forum: Tow Vehicles: GM Receiver Hitch NHTSA investigation update. I think it’s only for 2500 Suburban but check it out to be sure.

 

[Julian]

Has anyone ever seen or known of a receiver hitch that failed due to overloading while towing a boat or similar trailer. I keep reading that the class 3 receivers are over the rating with a 24' boat/trailer, but I spent over an hour looking on YouTube for any examples of one breaking or failing.

The length of the boat isn't the issue, it is the weight of the boat you need to keep an eye on. All of the Yamaha boats 24' and under weigh less than ~5100lbs (plus the trailer, gas, stuff etc) and as such are class 3 hitch compliant (depending on the vehicle). Now when you start adding all your gear etc.....that is when you need to ensure you have the right towing capacity...

<edited to correct the weight to add the trailer et al>

 

[Bluewater272]

All of the Yamaha boats 24' and under weigh less than 5000lbs and as such are class 3 hitch compliant. Now when you start adding all your gear etc.....that is when you need to ensure you have the right towing capacity...

That's a negative, though close. I'm not sure when Yamaha stopped publishing the 'dry weight on trailer' specifications, but in 2017 the 242 LTD-S had a dry weight on trailer of 5,063lbs, which is no batteries, no fuel, no water, nothing on-board storage wise, etc. Considering the fact that nobody is towing around empty boats, most of us are sitting around 5500lbs even in barebones configuration (batteries, fuel, anchor, some PFDs, six pack of beer).

 

[Pro Build]

This why I ask, seems like most of us are using passenger vehicles that are only rated up to 5000 pounds. Wanted to know how critical those few extra pounds were.

 

[Pro Build]

Why risk it? Insurance would most certainly deny a claim if they find your equipment isn’t rated to pull what you’re hauling.

As for pics just google failed hitch from exceeding tow capacity or something along those lines. That’s what I did and found a few examples very quickly. Also found that anyone who has a 2008 GM truck should replace their hitch no questions as there was an issue with that year of GM trucks and SUVs.

Known GM hitch failure
View attachment 90868View attachment 90870
View attachment 90871

View attachment 90869

I would think this is more of a accident related damage than just actual towing as it did bend the tongue of the trailer also.

 

[swatski]

I do not believe there is a 24’ Yamaha on a factory trailer anywhere that weights less than 5,000lbs. I would use 5,500+ as a baseline curb weight.

Well, unless you boat in microgravity.

—

 

[suke]

This why I ask, seems like most of us are using passenger vehicles that are only rated up to 5000 pounds. Wanted to know how critical those few extra pounds were.

I saw a guy towing a 25 foot cabin cruiser this weekend with a pathfinder. LOL! I thought my jeep looked odd towing my boat. He was likely towing 8-9k lbs witha 5k lb capacity vehicle. It managed just fine from the time I was following, and the squat was bad, but not terrible.

 

[Bluewater272]

This why I ask, seems like most of us are using passenger vehicles that are only rated up to 5000 pounds. Wanted to know how critical those few extra pounds were.

I know full-well that the owners manual for my F-150 states that I should be using a weight-distributing hitch for any load >5,000lbs. I also know that my tongue weight, fully loaded is <500 lbs. If I wanted to be compliant, I'd need to upgrade my reciever, however I also know that there's quite a bit of overengineering that goes into anything you buy. I'd wager money that the margin of safety on my truck is significantly more than a mid-sized SUV that's rated for 5K - which is why, although unsubstantiated, I have no qualm towing with my F-150 but would never tow it with my Explorer.

 

[rrmidden]

I have a family member who works for one of the larger insurance companies in the Mid-West. She says, generally speaking, the whole point of insurance is to cover people, even when they do stupid things. I would categorize exceeding the tow limits of a vehicle, as stupid, and therefore would say that insurance companies will cover you. But it's a whole other matter as far as the law and what not goes, as was mentioned previously.

I was within limits of towing our 212X with a Chevy Trailblazer, albeit, nearly maxed out. We bought the boat in the beginning of September and I upgraded to a Tundra by March. But I've seen my fair share of heavily overloaded vehicles, such as a minivan pulling a 25'ish travel trailer, couldn't go over about 40 mph, and the rear shocks/struts had to be fully compressed.

 

[haknslash]

This why I ask, seems like most of us are using passenger vehicles that are only rated up to 5000 pounds. Wanted to know how critical those few extra pounds were.

No idea of how many failures there are or where you could find those kind of statistics.

What I do know coming from an engineering field and manufacturing industry is that the ratings are there for a reason based off the design and materials used. A heavier class hitch will have thicker material, or a better grade of steel, or thicker welds or any combination of them all. Tests are performed and that’s where the ratings come from. They are there for a reason is what I’m saying. Knowingly those numbers seems risky and not worth it to me. There is a safety factor built in everything and who knows what that is per any given hitch design.

As for insurance companies covering you, again that’s a risk and gamble one would have to decide. I don’t think I would want to give any insurance agencies any reason to deny a claim, especially if they can prove I knowingly disregarded something.

For me it’s just not worth it and I want peace of mind knowing I’m towing as safely as I can not just for me but for everyone else out in the road. YMMV

 

[Pro Build]

I know full-well that the owners manual for my F-150 states that I should be using a weight-distributing hitch for any load >5,000lbs. I also know that my tongue weight, fully loaded is <500 lbs. If I wanted to be compliant, I'd need to upgrade my reciever, however I also know that there's quite a bit of overengineering that goes into anything you buy. I'd wager money that the margin of safety on my truck is significantly more than a mid-sized SUV that's rated for 5K - which is why, although unsubstantiated, I have no qualm towing with my F-150 but would never tow it with my Explorer.

I feel the same way about my F150 also, and that is why I ask if anyone can say that they are breaking down under normal use.

 

[suke]

I have a family member who works for one of the larger insurance companies in the Mid-West. She says, generally speaking, the whole point of insurance is to cover people, even when they do stupid things. I would categorize exceeding the tow limits of a vehicle, as stupid, and therefore would say that insurance companies will cover you. But it's a whole other matter as far as the law and what not goes, as was mentioned previously.

I was within limits of towing our 212X with a Chevy Trailblazer, albeit, nearly maxed out. We bought the boat in the beginning of September and I upgraded to a Tundra by March. But I've seen my fair share of heavily overloaded vehicles, such as a minivan pulling a 25'ish travel trailer, couldn't go over about 40 mph, and the rear shocks/struts had to be fully compressed.

Flip side to that I've seen a Dodge dakota crew cab with a tiny pop up trailer flipped over on its top due to improper load leveling. Even if it's within its limits you still gotta have some knowledge about what's going on and properly loading a vehicle.

 

[Pro Build]

No idea of how many failures there are or where you could find those kind of statistics.

What I do know coming from an engineering field and manufacturing industry is that the ratings are there for a reason based off the design and materials used. A heavier class hitch will have thicker material, or a better grade of steel, or thicker welds or any combination of them all. Tests are performed and that’s where the ratings come from. They are there for a reason is what I’m saying. Knowingly those numbers seems risky and not worth it to me. There is a safety factor built in everything and who knows what that is per any given hitch design.

As for insurance companies covering you, again that’s a risk and gamble one would have to decide. I don’t think I would want to give any insurance agencies any reason to deny a claim, especially if they can prove I knowingly disregarded something.

For me it’s just not worth it and I want peace of mind knowing I’m towing as safely as I can not just for me but for everyone else out in the road. YMMV

I would love to have that piece of mind, but I can't seem to find a hitch that will bolt on for my 2017 F150.

 

[haknslash]

I would love to have that piece of mind, but I can't seem to find a hitch that will bolt on for my 2017 F150.

Stay tuned and you will if it’s anything like my 2010. https://jetboaters.net/threads/need...f150-has-factory-tow.20926/page-4#post-364899

 

[Julian]

This why I ask, seems like most of us are using passenger vehicles that are only rated up to 5000 pounds. Wanted to know how critical those few extra pounds were.

Yeah, this does raise some interesting questions. How can an SUV rate their towing capacity to be 7800lbs (like my Q7 does) and only have a standard Class 3 hitch? This doesn't add up....